Purchase advice (1 Viewer)

[Freeborn]

I’m looking at a ‘94 this weekend with 300k miles on it. It seems to be well-maintained and pretty much all original. I’m going into the conversation assuming the motor will need a rebuild.
1. Is that a safe assumption?
2. If so, does anyone have experience with anyone that sells reman’d motors (1fz-fe) that they trust?
3. Is there anything else I should be thinking about that’s potentially a big-ticket item?

For context, I own a ‘78 and rebuilt the motor myself. I ain’t skeerd of getting the job done. I’d just like to save some time if possible.

 

[BILT4ME]

$40,000.
Toyota has new short blocks.
Toyota sells new bare heads.
Toyota sells rebuild parts.

What's your goal of the truck?
What oil do you use?
What tires do you want to run?
What lift kit do you need?
Are you going to go sliders or winch first?

 

[lp2k]

1. Is that a safe assumption?

Yes, if there is no proof or visual evidence (You see old rusty bolts and oil sludge around the oil pump or around the valve cover) Clean engine, you can validate work was done recently

2. If so, does anyone have experience with anyone that sells reman’d motors (1fz-fe) that they trust?

Reman? no, most send it off to machine shop what they got to be salvaged. If it cant be, then you buy the new part from toyota parts department (local dealer to you)

3. Is there anything else I should be thinking about that’s potentially a big-ticket item?

Rust, accident, crappy repaint

 

[Freeborn]

$40,000.
Toyota has new short blocks.
Toyota sells new bare heads.
Toyota sells rebuild parts.

What's your goal of the truck?
What oil do you use?
What tires do you want to run?
What lift kit do you need?
Are you going to go sliders or winch first?

The first goal is reliability. We’ll see where it goes from there.

 

[SaturnAscends]

1. What makes you think it needs a rebuild? Don't just assume it does, especially if those are mostly highway miles and its clean and relatively stock as you suggested. In fact a lot of the engines that need rebuilding are the "low mileage" examples that have been sitting for years on end. These things like to be driven.

2. Idk about remanned engines, but swapping in a used 1fz is usually the cheapest option when and if the original bites the dust, though that can be a gamble.

3. Ask if the top end has been done (head gasket and valve job). That's probably the biggest ticket item. As long as it's not knocking or making any crazy sounds the bottom end should be good at that mileage, again, if it's been well-maintained as you say.

Also just check it over for leaks in all the typical areas, including around the head/block interface, knuckles, oil pan, steering pump, etc. Maybe do a compression and leak down test for peace of mind.

 

[Freeborn]

1. What makes you think it needs a rebuild? Don't just assume it does, especially if those are mostly highway miles and its clean and relatively stock as you suggested. In fact a lot of the engines that need rebuilding are the "low mileage" examples that have been sitting for years on end. These things like to be driven.

2. Idk about remanned engines, but swapping in a used 1fz is usually the cheapest option when and if the original bites the dust, though that can be a gamble.

3. Ask if the top end has been done (head gasket and valve job). That's probably the biggest ticket item. As long as it's not knocking or making any crazy sounds the bottom end should be good at that mileage, again, if it's been well-maintained as you say.

Also just check it over for leaks in all the typical areas, including around the head/block interface, knuckles, oil pan, steering pump, etc. Maybe do a compression and leak down test for peace of mind.

Definitely almost 100% road miles. Perhaps there’s hope.

 

[MickeyB]

Can they provide records on all the maintenance? I would start there and then have a mechanic do an inspection on it. Also post some pics, mud members can tell you a lot of things just from pictures.

 

[Freeborn]

Can they provide records on all the maintenance? I would start there and then have a mechanic do an inspection on it. Also post some pics, mud members can tell you a lot of things just from pictures.

Will post pics as soon as I can.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

1. Is that a safe assumption?

It's "the safe" assumption, but not guaranteed. My 270K engine (93, early 1FZ) only needed a full rebuild because it had sat for a few years and had some rust in the cylinders. The machine shop said is was a shame to have to bore it. There is a higher chance that you will need some head work, especially valve stem seals.

2. If so, does anyone have experience with anyone that sells reman’d motors (1fz-fe) that they trust?

I went with a local machine shop and reassembled myself. I did not know that new short blocks were still available from Toyota at the time. Based on what I spent on Toyota pistons, rings, bearings, I would have looked very hard at a new short block had I known. I have trust issues with chain rebuilders, there may be great ones, I don't know.

3. Is there anything else I should be thinking about that’s potentially a big-ticket item?

The everything. You have a 40 you have been through, so I assume you know how it goes. I'm just going to do XYZ and drive it... Three years and several thousand dollars later you are polishing it and bolting in your new seats that cost more than you paid for the damn thing in the first place... Oh, wait. Just me ?

More seriously, surprises for me were condition of some of the wiring and connectors, sourcing a heater core, and I worry about the VAF in 93 / 94 vehicles. Make sure it isn't rusty, I hate rust. Patch panels are not available unless you can get someone to cut them out of a donor.

Good luck !

Jason

 

[SaturnAscends]

Definitely almost 100% road miles. Perhaps there’s hope.

If it runs good I wouldn't worry about it. There's people on here with 500k miles on their original bottom end

 

[desmocruiser]

No guarantee it will need a rebuild immediately, but many do if ultimate reliability is your primary goal. My opinion is to utilize a short block from T and go from there.

Sounds like you know the routine after the 40, just an 80 has more complicated cooling, EFI, electronics and other related components/$ to address as you rebuild.

After that if it is mostly rust free and the Auto trans is good (most are), just watch transfer case/ driveline issues, exhaust related repairs, plan to address the axles/brakes and that will likely cover most other common items and you should be in the right direction mechanically. Addressing the cosmetics and convenience items (power locks,windows, sunroof, weather sealing, AC etc.) each one seems to have its own set of needs.

Currently, a reasonably dependable decent 80 is a $20-$25k investment, sure there will be a few that chime in how cheap theirs was, but if you average this forum, that is the current entry price of ownership, just some pay now, some pay later, and others invest even more.

Good luck, since you are a 40 guy, you will enjoy the modern sophisticated 80 series, I enjoy one everyday!

 

[Spdstr280Z]

@desmocruiser brings up a good point, exhaust. The exhaust is unique on 93 / 94, and how repairs are handled may get tricky if you are in a strict emissions state. Most exhaust options available are for 95+. Many of us have used the Magnaflow Y pipe and single cat. Word is that even passes sniffer tests, but it will not pass visual in place of the 2 side by side cats on 93 / 94's.

Jason