Puma Compressor Mounted in the Rear Qtr Panel with Pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ummmm, I just realized after reading your posts a second time, there is welding involved to the fender. Do you see, or have you already thought of, a different solution for mounting the pump to the fender.
 
TYM4FUN said:
Ummmm, I just realized after reading your posts a second time, there is welding involved to the fender. Do you see, or have you already thought of, a different solution for mounting the pump to the fender.

If I had the time and patience, I could have bent the base of the brackets to form to the wheel well and bolted it in place. It is a significant amount of weight that you want to be well secured, especially with airlines involved. I'd be interested to see other options.
 
Very nice mod! I would be concerned about running the pump more than a few minutes without a high flow cooling fan. I use a portable pump and try to always place it in the breeze to carry the heat away from the cylinder head.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
 
Two potential issues that I see:

#1: Cooling, would monitor it closely. By turning the head, the cooling was reduced. Compressors need open airflow or forced airflow. I would put at least one big fan, the pancake type used in a PC (they are native 12v), blowing air into the compartment.

2: My guess is there will be issues with the plastic hose at the head. Compressed air output is hot, likely far exceeding the pressure/heat rating of hose. This is why it came stock with the finned metal line.
 
Nice job! I think you could make money building and selling a bolt in solution there. Either a bracket and compressor, or just the bracket as a platform the buyer drills for the compressor he has. I suspect I am like most in that I only want a compressor mount, no need for an air tank and the associated extra plumbing you have. If my cargo wall there had an air line connector, and a switch, I'd be in heaven.

Again - great project and thanks for the pictures.

DougM
 
Tools R Us said:
Two potential issues that I see:

#1: Cooling, would monitor it closely. By turning the head, the cooling was reduced. Compressors need open airflow or forced airflow. I would put at least one big fan, the pancake type used in a PC (they are native 12v), blowing air into the compartment.[/QOUTE]

I have the fan, just need to figure out where to mount it.

[QOUTE]2: My guess is there will be issues with the plastic hose at the head. Compressed air output is hot, likely far exceeding the pressure/heat rating of hose. This is why it came stock with the finned metal line.

I had a hard time trying to figure out the size of the flared connections and I was running out of time. I should probably revisit that effort. Additionally, reusing the finned copper line would make for a cleaner install.
 
how much draw from that ARB compressor at full capacity ..? 80 amps seems to be a lot to me even given the distance ..
 
how much draw from that ARB compressor at full capacity ..? 80 amps seems to be a lot to me even given the distance ..
The instruction manual quotes 68.6 amps at max current draw.
I also have an 80lt Engel combi fridge/freezer & a 21lt Weaco fridge wired into the same block.

Hamo
 
IdahoDoug said:
Nice job! I think you could make money building and selling a bolt in solution there. Either a bracket and compressor, or just the bracket as a platform the buyer drills for the compressor he has. I suspect I am like most in that I only want a compressor mount, no need for an air tank and the associated extra plumbing you have. If my cargo wall there had an air line connector, and a switch, I'd be in heaven.

Again - great project and thanks for the pictures.

DougM

Thanks Doug!
I thought it might come up and unfortunately I can't take on a production run with everything else on my plate. I would suspect that the bracket would need to bolt to the wheel well, which I think some people would have issues with. However, there would be no I'll feelings towards someone who would want to take this on.
 
Tapage said:
how much draw from that ARB compressor at full capacity ..? 80 amps seems to be a lot to me even given the distance ..

80 amps would be overkill for the ARB, but I suspect it will be right in line for the Puma pump. For a reference point, it's got a 3/4hp (peak1hp) motor, capable of 3.4 cfm, 135psi working pressure, 150psi max.
 
Update

So I kept popping 60 amp fuses and couldn't figure it out. By not using the factory manifold and relay, I had no check valve and unloader in the system and the pump could not overcome the head pressure when the pressure switch would come on. So I installed Viair's check valve and while I was at it, I installed the finned metal on some fresh 3/8" copper. FWIW, the factory flared connections are 37 Degree Flared Tube for 3/8" Tube Od. The McMaster part number is 50675K164.:cheers:

image.webp
 
So, how is this holding up? Is there any overheating issues?
 
Update

So I kept popping 60 amp fuses and couldn't figure it out. By not using the factory manifold and relay, I had no check valve and unloader in the system and the pump could not overcome the head pressure when the pressure switch would come on. So I installed Viair's check valve and while I was at it, I installed the finned metal on some fresh 3/8" copper. FWIW, the factory flared connections are 37 Degree Flared Tube for 3/8" Tube Od. The McMaster part number is 50675K164.:cheers:

Without an unloader valve I have seen PUMA starting amp in excess of 80amp. You can get by without an unloader by using a live chuck so the system cant shut off.
 
So, how is this holding up? Is there any overheating issues?
It's holding up well. I've installed two breakers, one at the battery and one near the pump and have yet to trip one with the check valve in place. I installed a dc fan in the OE Subwoofer grille that turns on when the compressor is running and I remove the access panel (Post #8 of this thread) when airing up the 37's and have had no issues to speak of.

Without an unloader valve I have seen PUMA starting amp in excess of 80amp. You can get by without an unloader by using a live chuck so the system cant shut off.

I don't doubt it. With the check valve I have in place, I believe the piston rings bleed off the head pressure, thus lowering the starting amps resulting in no tripped breakers since the install. It's acting much like an unloader, just not as efficiently.
 
do you have any more info on the speedflow braided lines? I am having an issue with my air line that goes from my compressor to my tank. It keeps popping off of the fitting (hose clamp) as the line gets so damn hot. I was going to have a custom one made but need something like this that can handle pressure and heat at the same time. thx.
 
do you have any more info on the speedflow braided lines? I am having an issue with my air line that goes from my compressor to my tank. It keeps popping off of the fitting (hose clamp) as the line gets so damn hot. I was going to have a custom one made but need something like this that can handle pressure and heat at the same time. thx.

@ham00 is the one that used them.
 
Back
Top Bottom