Puma 12V Compressor

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lovetoski said:
Just received my puma 12v compressor today. Not sure where I'll mount it yet. Noted that titan posted above about whether you can mount these sideways...but no concrete answers. My question is more general...(other than ventilation) are there any limitations about where/how this is mounted? Does the motor/compressor care what orientation it's in? I will post pics of how I mount and wire this, but want to know parameters...
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Mine just showed up mid week....I'm seriously contemplating the engine compartment....a guy over on T4R.org did it and it looked great (Viair setup, looks to be about the same size). I just wonder how dry the engine compartment is. I wouldn't run it unless the hood was open, so I'm not thinking heat will play a real issue?...thoughts?
 
not sure what truck you have.....but on my 60...under teh hood gets muddy and wet off road.... You could potentially build /fab some kind of shield for the mud out of thin plate... that would help with some of that. I would not want the air intake getting muddy and wet all the time.
 
Just got mine ready to roll, still nit decided where I'm going to put .. or if I'm going to do coz I would like to bring in not to use only on Tencha.

Bit more heavy that I was expecting for sure.
ForumRunner_20120130_172653.webp
 
So I'm putting an inline 60 amp fuse in.....and using some nice black and red alligator clamps I picked from McMasters....so how do I connect the wires together? The #8 cable I'm using is copper wire...and the fuse, and wiring coming out of the compresser are aluminum(I think...silver anyway) Crimps? Tried soldering and in wont take. Do I really need the inline fuse?

Thanks for the help.
 
titanpat57 said:
So I'm putting an inline 60 amp fuse in.....and using some nice black and red alligator clamps I picked from McMasters....so how do I connect the wires together? The #8 cable I'm using is copper wire...and the fuse, and wiring coming out of the compresser are aluminum(I think...silver anyway) Crimps? Tried soldering and in wont take. Do I really need the inline fuse?

Thanks for the help.
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Crimps work well with the proper crimping tool. I used an Andreson plug at the compressor for a while. Now Im direct wire with no fuse but Im also 18" from the battery.
Rear storage 012.webp
 
titanpat57 said:
So I'm putting an inline 60 amp fuse in.....and using some nice black and red alligator clamps I picked from McMasters....so how do I connect the wires together? The #8 cable I'm using is copper wire...and the fuse, and wiring coming out of the compresser are aluminum(I think...silver anyway) Crimps? Tried soldering and in wont take. Do I really need the inline fuse?

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

If you are clipping the wires to the battery only when you are using the compressor, likely don't need the fuse.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Crimps work well with the proper crimping tool. I used an Andreson plug at the compressor for a while. Now Im direct wire with no fuse but Im also 18" from the battery.
Click to expand...

Thanks Phil...:beer:

Tools R Us said:
If you are clipping the wires to the battery only when you are using the compressor, likely don't need the fuse.
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I've changed directions just a bit this morning. I'm planning to pick up a decent set of jumper cables from Autozone, clip off one set of ends, and "bug" them together with these

PBS insulated Splices

http://www.greaves-usa.com/pdfs/Power Dist. 51-61.pdf

Or I'm wondering if I can just bypass the smaller gauge, and go directly to the motor and such.

Thanks for the help!
 
This is the way I went on both my trucks. Although it was a lot cheaper when I bought them. You can make up your own cables using the Anderson SB 175 quick disconnects. They are available at battery supply places. HD battery clamps can also be bought separately.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_43494_43494

Although just to connect the compressor, I would use SB50 size. There are adaptors that go from SB175 to SB50 that I plan to use on my Taco. That way, I have only one cable coming from the battery to the SB175 in the front bumper, used for both the jumper cables (SB175) and air compressor (SB50). No need to raise the hood to connect jumpers or compressor.
 
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titanpat57 said:
Thanks Phil...:beer:



I've changed directions just a bit this morning. I'm planning to pick up a decent set of jumper cables from Autozone, clip off one set of ends, and "bug" them together with these

PBS insulated Splices

http://www.greaves-usa.com/pdfs/Power Dist. 51-61.pdf

Or I'm wondering if I can just bypass the smaller gauge, and go directly to the motor and such.

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Attaching larger wire to the compressor is difficult and not needed. Home Depot make an in-line splice kit (set screw type) that should fit your needs for the butt splicing the small and larger wire together. Make sure you tape or shrink wrap the splices well. Our HD just started carrying insulated Splices connectors for large wires but over kill IMO.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Attaching larger wire to the compressor is difficult and not needed. Home Depot make an in-line splice kit (set screw type) that should fit your needs for the butt splicing the small and larger wire together. Make sure you tape or shrink wrap the splices well. Our HD just started carrying insulated Splices connectors for large wires but over kill IMO.
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Phil....thanks!..stopped at the Depot and checked out what you were saying..good call!

I also stopped at Autozone and got the 12' 8# jumper cables, loped the ends off one side, attached them thar' bugs (with a dab of that dyielectric grease) taped the living BeJesus out of it...and let it rip!!

All worked as expected...thanks all! :beer:
comp1.webp
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I know it's little "downtown" with th cheezy tape job, and I did pick up some heat shrink...but it just wasn't big enough to slide over the bug.
comp4.webp
 
Self vulcanizing rubber electrical tape is the stuff to keep around for waterproofing large wires unless you are doing allot. Then go and get a few lengths of large diameter double walled 4 to 1 heat shrink with hot melt glue lining. I like the clear 3M stuff. Waytek Wire handles it in 4' or 5' lengths. Just cut off what you need for the current project. My last batch I got from Digikey but I think Waytek has a better price. I now have 1/4", 1/2", and 1" on hand. That handles most projects for me.

http://www.waytekwire.com/ Waytek was down for maintenance so no direct link.
 
Bogo said:
Self vulcanizing rubber electrical tape is the stuff to keep around for waterproofing large wires unless you are doing allot. Then go and get a few lengths of large diameter double walled 4 to 1 heat shrink with hot melt glue lining. I like the clear 3M stuff. Waytek Wire handles it in 4' or 5' lengths. Just cut off what you need for the current project. My last batch I got from Digikey but I think Waytek has a better price. I now have 1/4", 1/2", and 1" on hand. That handles most projects for me.

Waytek Inc, Home page to buy fuses, circuit breakers, cable ties, wire and other electrical supplies By Waytek Inc. Waytek was down for maintenance so no direct link.
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Thanks for the link...I ordered some of this....you can put it on without taking it (the wires) apart.

McMaster-Carr
 
Bogo said:
Looks like it should also work fine. I see they list it being able to resist UV which is good.
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A friend picked some up for me this year at SEMA. Nice stuff its claimed to do everything:rolleyes:. I found it funny I saw it also at the 99cent store later.
 
I am contemplating divorcing my tank from the compressor. It looks pretty straight-forward...is it as easy as separating the check-valve from the tank, and then running an appropriate length hose from the check-valve to the relocated tank? I realize the pressure-switch is also attached to the tank, but that doesn't appear to have anything to do with the flow or control of the airpressure.

Assuming it's as easy as I think, are there any issues with using flexible air hose instead of copper tubing to connect the check valve and tank?

Thankyou!
 
lovetoski said:
Assuming it's as easy as I think, are there any issues with using flexible air hose instead of copper tubing to connect the check valve and tank?
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That tube gets quite hot on an extended run so make sure your "rubber" hose can handle the heat.
 
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