Pulsing/droning vibration at highway speeds (7 Viewers)

[ClassyJalopy]

Did you have the vibration before you replaced the wheel bearings?

No vibration before or even after for 6 months.

Well - this is hot off the press: The right side bearing nut was slightly loose. I have taken everything apart, repacked and tightened it up again. Now I need to put a fresh axle seal and re-install the CV axle and then go for a ride!

 

[gregnash]

No vibration before or even after for 6 months.

Well - this is hot off the press: The right side bearing nut was slightly loose. I have taken everything apart, repacked and tightened it up again. Now I need to put a fresh axle seal and re-install the CV axle and then go for a ride!

Interesting! Definitely let us know how it goes. I am in need of correcting a lot of stuff that the PO had a cheapo shop do so I am sure that my bearing nuts are probably not up to spec. On top of that last night while searching the darkness of the YouTube blackhole I did see a few videos on upper ball joint removal (different vehicles, not 100 series) and the mechanics state that a vibration on one side or the other during certain speeds could be indicative of worn ball joints. I know that when I first had the front end up on my truck I checked for play in the wheel bearings and 3-9 was tight, zero play. But when I did 12-6 I had play, not a huge amount but enough that I noticed and was like "huh, that's interesting".

 

[DTCsk8er]

How bad is the vibration? If its pretty minor, I'd bet it isn't wheel bearing considering they weren't that loose.

Keep us posted!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Interesting! Definitely let us know how it goes. I am in need of correcting a lot of stuff that the PO had a cheapo shop do so I am sure that my bearing nuts are probably not up to spec. On top of that last night while searching the darkness of the YouTube blackhole I did see a few videos on upper ball joint removal (different vehicles, not 100 series) and the mechanics state that a vibration on one side or the other during certain speeds could be indicative of worn ball joints. I know that when I first had the front end up on my truck I checked for play in the wheel bearings and 3-9 was tight, zero play. But when I did 12-6 I had play, not a huge amount but enough that I noticed and was like "huh, that's interesting".

How bad is the vibration? If its pretty minor, I'd bet it isn't wheel bearing considering they weren't that loose.

Keep us posted!

Spent some more time under my truck. Pulled the new OEM axle the 3rd time and replace the axle seal with a new OEM one - re tightened the bearings on both side. Drained and refilled the differential oil and went for a test drive. The good news is that there doesn't seem to be any more oil leaking from the axle seal.

The bad news is that my vibration is the same as it ever was!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

So here's the quick summary:
The speed-dependent vibration showed up right after a day of wheeling. I have tried this so far:
1) Brand new OEM CV axle on the right side
2) Took off front drive shaft without any improvement
3) Fresh inner and outer tie-rods
4) Put fresh oil in front diff/transfer case
5) All new bearings, hub flange, lock nuts etc (6 months ago)
6) All tires balanced twice and fresh alignment at the dealership

What is next? This is purely guess work - but I am wondering

• if a bearing in the front diff got screwed? How to check for those?
• There is also slight give in the steering rack bushings and it leaks a tiny bit of oil should that be addressed?
• Should I take off the rear drive shaft to see if it'll improve anything - I doubt it very much since the source of vibration/shake is the front of the truck.

 

[DTCsk8er]

So here's the quick summary:
The speed-dependent vibration showed up right after a day of wheeling. I have tried this so far:
1) Brand new OEM CV axle on the right side
2) Took off front drive shaft without any improvement
3) Fresh inner and outer tie-rods
4) Put fresh oil in front diff/transfer case
5) All new bearings, hub flange, lock nuts etc (6 months ago)
6) All tires balanced twice and fresh alignment at the dealership

What is next? This is purely guess work - but I am wondering

• if a bearing in the front diff got screwed? How to check for those?
• There is also slight give in the steering rack bushings and it leaks a tiny bit of oil should that be addressed?
• Should I take off the rear drive shaft to see if it'll improve anything - I doubt it very much since the source of vibration/shake is the front of the truck.

Quickest/Cheapest way to eliminate the diff is pull drive shaft and flanges, and lock CDL.

Most of our rigs have some give in the rack bushings.. usually this just leads to slop steering and not vibration. Is the oil seeping out the boot(s)? Depending how bad the leak is, it may be time to begin planning to replace it..

You mentioned tires were balanced.. road force balanced?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Yeah tires are road force balanced. For good measure - I took the truck in to the local discount tire and they couldn't find any additional balancing to do. I am dropping my truck off at a local 4x4 specialty shop for them to look at what else can be checked for vibration issue.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Check rear driveshaft for damage/dent.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Quickest/Cheapest way to eliminate the diff is pull drive shaft and flanges, and lock CDL.

Most of our rigs have some give in the rack bushings.. usually this just leads to slop steering and not vibration. Is the oil seeping out the boot(s)? Depending how bad the leak is, it may be time to begin planning to replace it..

You mentioned tires were balanced.. road force balanced?

Have you done this? Remove drive flanges and drive shaft, lock CDL and drive at 60mph?

The drive flange supports the axle at the hub so that it floats within the spindle bearing to stabilize it.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Have you done this? Remove drive flanges and drive shaft, lock CDL and drive at 60mph?

The drive flange supports the axle at the hub so that it floats within the spindle bearing to stabilize it.

Admittedly, I haven't. I just took off the front drive shaft, locked CDL and left the CV axle on there and it was very clear that the vibration was coming from the front. I agree that it is inconclusive. I unfortunately don't have any more time or patience to deal with it. Having to install the CV axle 3 times just drained me. I was hoping to get her fixed before our next trip starting this weekend but looks like the 4th time in my short ownership the truck will be unfit for use for the trip.

It is going to a local shop for diagnosis tomorrow. We'll wait to see what they find out.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Admittedly, I haven't. I just took off the front drive shaft, locked CDL and left the CV axle on there and it was very clear that the vibration was coming from the front. I agree that it is inconclusive. I unfortunately don't have any more time or patience to deal with it. Having to install the CV axle 3 times just drained me. I was hoping to get her fixed before our next trip starting this weekend but looks like the 4th time in my short ownership the truck will be unfit for use for the trip.

It is going to a local shop for diagnosis tomorrow. We'll wait to see what they find out.

My question was more of a statement that it shouldn't be done this way. The spindle isnt designed to support the end of the CV without the drive flange stabilizing and holding it in place at high speed.

Looking forward to what you find out!

 

[DTCsk8er]

My question was more of a statement that it shouldn't be done this way. The spindle isnt designed to support the end of the CV without the drive flange stabilizing and holding it in place at high speed.

Looking forward to what you find out!

Yes, I have done this... as have likely many others who break their diff. If the diff explodes, you aren't likely going to just be OK removing drive flanges.. it'd be best to immobilize the ring and pinion entirely by removing the driveshaft as well.

The wheel bearings do not contact the CV axle; they are strictly meant to provide mechanical connection between the spindle (stationary) and rotor. The CV axle is suspended by the inner spindle bearing, however without the CV axle spinning, there should be no harm done to either the spindle bearing or the inside of the spindle IMO.

The biggest risk to running like this is that the CV backs out of the hub (as the hub gear and clip are no longer holding it up against the spindle).. it would come apart, but can pull back and allow water/dust into the inner spindle. In my case, I was also isolating a vibration.. pulled the driveshaft, hub gears, and duct taped the outer area to prevent dust from making its way into the wheel bearings. Ran like this for no more than 24 hrs.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Any update?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Any update?

The shop has promised to look at my truck tomorrow. They jst hadn't time to look at it yet

 

[atnolan94]

Yes, I have done this... as have likely many others who break their diff. If the diff explodes, you aren't likely going to just be OK removing drive flanges.. it'd be best to immobilize the ring and pinion entirely by removing the driveshaft as well.

The wheel bearings do not contact the CV axle; they are strictly meant to provide mechanical connection between the spindle (stationary) and rotor. The CV axle is suspended by the inner spindle bearing, however without the CV axle spinning, there should be no harm done to either the spindle bearing or the inside of the spindle IMO.

The biggest risk to running like this is that the CV backs out of the hub (as the hub gear and clip are no longer holding it up against the spindle).. it would come apart, but can pull back and allow water/dust into the inner spindle. In my case, I was also isolating a vibration.. pulled the driveshaft, hub gears, and duct taped the outer area to prevent dust from making its way into the wheel bearings. Ran like this for no more than 24 hrs.

There is definitely no risk in this, as worldwide there are many part-time IFS 100s. This is exactly how they work, but with an external locking hub as opposed to the drive flanges.

 

[DTCsk8er]

There is definitely no risk in this, as worldwide there are many part-time IFS 100s. This is exactly how they work, but with an external locking hub as opposed to the drive flanges.

Exactly. Only difference is with hub gear gone, there is nothing to keep the CV joint in place into the spindle. With the locking hub, its held forward with a clip, like like any other part time Toyota.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

The shop has promised to look at my truck tomorrow. They jst hadn't time to look at it yet

Got a call from the local shop that issue was with the rear prop shaft being out of balance. They put on the OEM shaft I gave them and now claim that the vibration is gone. I am hoping to pick it up today to see if that's true!

 

[DTCsk8er]

Got a call from the local shop that issue was with the rear prop shaft being out of balance. They put on the OEM shaft I gave them and now claim that the vibration is gone. I am hoping to pick it up today to see if that's true!

Well that would be awesome if it is indeed gone!

 

[atnolan94]

Like I said a couple weeks back my rear DS was bad and the improvement was night and day. So much so that I now feel a little bit of vibration from my front DS haha. I am installing my part time spool soon so lest worried about that now.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I am happy to report the vibration was cured by replacing the rear prop shaft.