atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
I'm sure they could take it off for you, but could save some money doing it yourself. I have a second car so I dropped mine and took them to my local driveshaft shop. Just call them and have them quote it out.
Pulsing/droning vibration at highway speeds (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter marcfj60
- Start date
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I'm sure they could take it off for you, but could save some money doing it yourself. I have a second car so I dropped mine and took them to my local driveshaft shop. Just call them and have them quote it out.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Front Bearing Replacement
yep, same grease should work. My fronts came apart by finger as well just a couple thousand miles after a "qualified mechanic" put on rotors. Thats why I think the 35lbs is the way to go.
forum.ih8mud.com
Picked up oem drive shafts and cv axles. Also bought Oreilly branded cv axles. Hopefully I will soon be able to work on isolating the vibration source
Update: Took the front drive shaft off and left the axles in place and ran the truck with center diff locked. It was very clear that the vibration was coming from the front of the truck and more specifically the right front. It wasn't this easy to tell before with the front drive shaft in place.
Took the grease cap off the right front hub and noticed the c-clip groove is mostly stripped. Looked at the axle closely and the found a light leak at one of the boots. I think it is pretty clear that the right front axle is the culprit here.
BTW 256k miles and the front drive shaft is still pretty tight with not many visible signs of wear!!
Took the grease cap off the right front hub and noticed the c-clip groove is mostly stripped. Looked at the axle closely and the found a light leak at one of the boots. I think it is pretty clear that the right front axle is the culprit here.
BTW 256k miles and the front drive shaft is still pretty tight with not many visible signs of wear!!
New update: Tried to install the Cardone HD axle on the passenger (right side). the diff side was really hard to press in. But the hub side was the real issue! Couldn't get the hub flange to slide on to the axle. SInce I had the OEM axle on hand - I pulled out the CARDONE axle out and installed the OEM. It clicked into the front diff rather easily and the hub flange smoothly slided on the axle shaft!
Also, replaced the seal at the diff (where axle goes in) with a "National" brand one from O'Reilly. Buttoned everything up and noticed that diff oil is leaking from the new seal
Looks like I will need to pull the axle yet again and install an OEM seal - what a waste of a day!
The dingle berry on top of this fecal sundae is that installing a $400 OEM axle didn't fix the vibration at all
Also, replaced the seal at the diff (where axle goes in) with a "National" brand one from O'Reilly. Buttoned everything up and noticed that diff oil is leaking from the new seal
Looks like I will need to pull the axle yet again and install an OEM seal - what a waste of a day!
The dingle berry on top of this fecal sundae is that installing a $400 OEM axle didn't fix the vibration at all
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
???? Are you sure that those are Cardone axles? Import Direct is a separate brand I thought?
What is the condition of the splines/teeth on your hub flanges?
What do your wheel bearings feel like?
What do your ball joints (upper and lower) feel like?
What is the condition of the splines/teeth on your hub flanges?
What do your wheel bearings feel like?
What do your ball joints (upper and lower) feel like?
New update: Tried to install the Cardone HD axle on the passenger (right side). the diff side was really hard to press in. But the hub side was the real issue! Couldn't get the hub flange to slide on to the axle. SInce I had the OEM axle on hand - I pulled out the CARDONE axle out and installed the OEM. It clicked into the front diff rather easily and the hub flange smoothly slided on the axle shaft!
Also, replaced the seal at the diff (where axle goes in) with a "National" brand one from O'Reilly. Buttoned everything up and noticed that diff oil is leaking from the new seal
Looks like I will need to pull the axle yet again and install an OEM seal - what a waste of a day!
The dingle berry on top of this fecal sundae is that installing a $400 OEM axle didn't fix the vibration at all
That sucks - changing CV axles on these trucks is not a quick job.
My cardones took some serious work to get through the drive flanges but they did go through. I threaded a long bolt and washer into the center of the axles and used the claw side of a hammer to slowly work them in. I'll take tight over loose, since these drive flanges and axles like to eat away at themselves over time.
Also, I'm still trying to get rid of my vibration as well, but I'm certain it's coming from the rear of my truck. New CVs, tires, driveshafts, and adjustable lower links have not fixed it or had a noticeable impact on it, sadly. Not even sure what else to try!
Returned the O'Reilly Import Direct branded Axles last week. Had the Cardone HD ones shipped from Rockauto ($200 for the pair). The OEM axles have a beveled edge while the CARDONE ones have a square edge - they are only very slightly the larger than the hub flange/
My Hub flanges were new about 6-8 months ago. the spline/teeth are nice and sharp. Wheel bearings are also new (6 months ~5k miles). Upper ball joints are Uniball type in the Nitro UCA - Absolutely no play! Lower ball joints are also 6-8 months old they are 555 brand and are very tight.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
My bad... just noticed in your sig that you had the Nitros.
As for the axles, could you post a pic to show what you mean by "beveled edge" vs. "square edge" on the Cardone? I think I know what you are talking about but not 100%.
Have you tried these:
1) Take front shaft off and take hub flanges off from both front wheels. Drive with Center Diff locked. If you still have vibration - it can't be the front end.
2) Put front stuff back on and take rear drive shaft off - drive with center diff locked if it is still vibrating - it can't be the rear.
Since you have replaced most of the roatiting stuff - I would consider looking at the wheel bearing and also the warped rotors.
I tried to take the picture - but it is really hard to tell
Cardone
OEM
Cardone
OEM
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Nah that is perfect dude... That was EXACTLY what I was thinking you were referring to.
The OEM axle has a much sharper angle to the bevel at the end of the axle (between snap ring and end of axle) whereas the Cardone has a slight angle but really looks almost flat. Could be a good way to determine whether axles are OEM or aftermarket.
The OEM axle has a much sharper angle to the bevel at the end of the axle (between snap ring and end of axle) whereas the Cardone has a slight angle but really looks almost flat. Could be a good way to determine whether axles are OEM or aftermarket.
New update: Tried to install the Cardone HD axle on the passenger (right side). the diff side was really hard to press in. But the hub side was the real issue! Couldn't get the hub flange to slide on to the axle. SInce I had the OEM axle on hand - I pulled out the CARDONE axle out and installed the OEM. It clicked into the front diff rather easily and the hub flange smoothly slided on the axle shaft!
Also, replaced the seal at the diff (where axle goes in) with a "National" brand one from O'Reilly. Buttoned everything up and noticed that diff oil is leaking from the new seal
Looks like I will need to pull the axle yet again and install an OEM seal - what a waste of a day!
The dingle berry on top of this fecal sundae is that installing a $400 OEM axle didn't fix the vibration at all
I know you mention you removed the driveshaft.. but did you also remove the hub gears, and drive around with the CDL locked?
I only removed the front drive shaft and left the hub flanges on - the vibration was very clearly coming from the right front. I probably should try the hub and drive shaft off before I throw any more parts at it.
I know it's the rear. Remove the rear shaft and drive around in fwd mode and vibes are gone.
Also, torque steer is much worse in FWD mode!
lol
You get vibrations even with a new rear drive shaft?I know it's the rear. Remove the rear shaft and drive around in fwd mode and vibes are gone.
Also, torque steer is much worse in FWD mode!
Yes, both front and rear shafts are new OEM toyota. I'm leaning towards it being warped brakes or some sort of bearing in the rear axle - it's not the driveline vibes you get from a misaligned rear shaft, as I accidently introduced those while adjusting my adjustable lower links. It's more cyclical, not constant like the buzz you get from the misaligned DS.
Drives me a bit batty, but not enough to not drive the thing. Starts to phase in around 60 mph and is most pronounced right about 75. 80+ it's gone, but so is my mileage, and below 72 it's much more liveable, but that's too slow for me.
I think most axle shops will be able to take the rear axle shafts out and press in new bearing for not too much money.
My truck was ultra smooth when I drove 300 miles in a raging snow storm to an offroad park 3 weeks ago. One day playing through muddy splashes and sandy dunes and it started shaking like a bitch at highway speeds. Actually I notice the vibration at lower speeds too but it is much more annoying at highway speeds. I am also slightly worried that my front diff might be toast - we'll see!
Did you have the vibration before you replaced the wheel bearings?
