Pulling axles for 3rd member swap? (1 Viewer)

[drecian]

I've tried searching and didn't really get any clear answers...

My 3rd member is leaking oil like there's no tomorrow from the flange and there's a bit of play in there, so I plan to swap out the whole 3rd member for another one. Anyone have a simple run down (or links to) as to the process in pulling the axles to get the 3rd member out (preferable understandable to my one self...)

I have read about axles with C-clips and ones without etc. All the ones down here in Oz are floating rear-ends with the hub that sticks through the wheel.

Most 40's down here are hacked out farm rigs or shooting platforms so there's not much of an enthusiast base here. Means parts are fairly cheap from wreckers, just nowhere to get decent info apart form rural mechanics...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/133000-133999/133823_97_full.jpg

Cheers guys

 

[89s rule]

Is it the front or the rear? Never been inside aff rear, but I would imagine it wouldnt be bad. Fron you have to pull the axles out which means pulling hubs, brakes, etc.

Nice looking 40!

 

[drecian]

It's for the rear. The rear end has already been swapped out of a '77 45 (mine is a '71) and I'm just trying to fix up all the PO band-aids; like a DIY wiring harness (not as bad as it sounds, it's all relayed and fused, just a PITA to troubleshoot).

TIA

 

[Jerry D.]

By the picture, it does looks like you have a full floating rear axle. IMHO all you would need to do is:
Make sure the fill plug on the differential can be removed, you can’t fill it otherwise when you’re done.
Now drain the diff. fluid.
Disconnect driveshaft at 3rd member.
Remove the six 12 mm nuts, washers and cone washers on each end flange of the axle shafts, and pull the axle shafts.
Remove all the 14 mm nuts holding the 3rd member in place.
Take out the 3rd member, you may need help with this depending on your physical situation, you may need to do some prying to get it to come loose depending on if there is a gasket or RTV to seal it. Sometimes a bottle jack under the pinion end and a little pressure will pop it loose.

Clean out the axle housing to be sure there is no debris or other junk in it.

Install replacement 3rd member.
Put nuts back on 3rd member.
Connect drive shaft.
Install axle shafts, check seals first and replace if necessary (I would replace them anyway)
Put nuts etc. back on axle shafts end flanges.
Fill diff. with proper fluid.


That’s the way I see it.

Jerry D.

 

[3_puppies]

Jerry is right on with his info, pretty easy. There are quite a few fellows on here from OZ.

X2 on the make sure you get the fill plug out or loose first!

 

[lostmarbles]

All the important stuff has already been said by Jerry but I'll just add these minor things Jeff:

• The cone washers are likely to be tricky to remove. (The "tapered split-sleeves" that sit behind the 6 nuts on each of your axle flanges which are used to prevent "play" between the drive flanges and hub studs under torque loading.) Take care to avoid butchering them unless you have replacements. (Scrape paint away from them first - once the nuts are removed of course - and tap at them gently before prying them out - You may actually be able to grab hold of them with the end of a good pair of vicegrips to lift them out once they are loosened.)
• When extracting and reinserting your axle shafts - Try to tilt each one upwards (particularly the longer heavier one) to take its weight off the axle seal that you are withdrawing/inserting it through. (These seals are there to stop the diff oil from mixing with your wheel bearing grease - And they can be damaged by dragging a heavy axle along the lip)
• You'll need to cut new gaskets for your axle flanges and third member (unless you use goo instead)
• There is no need to touch your wheel bearings and seals during this work if you don't want to.

 

[vk7ybi]

The trick I use to get the cone washers out is to tap the end of each stud a few times with a brass drift and a decent size hammer.. The washers will spring loose.. Leave the nut on the end of the stud so you dont lose the cone washer..

The axles can be tricky to extract.. If you look at the axle flange, where the studs are, there are two spare holes with threads tapped.. The hole is tapped with M8.. Usually the holes are full of gunk, so clean them out.. When all the cone washers are out, screw a M8 bolt in each spare hole till they bottom.. Keep turning each one equal amounts alternating side to side till the axle comes out.. This saves getting chisels in there and ruining the gasket surfaces..

None of these jobs are as hard as the seem, if the time and care is taken to do them the way Toyota intended us to do them..

 

[drecian]

Thanks heaps for the info guys.

Sounds like something I should be able to tackle after exams...

Keep it shiny side up fellas!