Protecting headlights from yellowing (1 Viewer)

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How complex were the shapes of the headlights on that vehicle? From looking at ours it will require quite a bit of stretching due to the shape. Unless I'm misreading and that was a 200 also.

And sam's club isn't getting anywhere near my vehicle with hand tools, let alone power ones.
Not complex at all comparatively to the 200 series. The pre-face lift models would be easier than the last body style, but still doable. I'd recommend taking your time and practicing with some door cups or door sill film first to get a hang of how to work the film, steps involved, patience needed, etc.

Yeah, I wouldn't trust the sam's club guy grinding on your headlights...may as well go ahead and call corporate insurance for the new headlight you'd need after they were "done."
 
Is there a different 303 that is ok for gauge panels and headlights?
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Weird - 303 Aerospace Protectant is the one specifically recommended by 303 for UV protection of clear plastics, like headlights and airplane canopies.
Could there be a different formulation for professional vs consumer use?
 
Weird - 303 Aerospace Protectant is the one specifically recommended by 303 for UV protection of clear plastics, like headlights and airplane canopies.
Does the blue bottle traditional formula say the same thing?
 
Does the blue bottle traditional formula say the same thing?
I'd like to know too.

I put a call in to the company that makes the stuff wondering why it is explicitly prohibited from headlights, left a message with their third-world answering service, no call back (and no surprise.)

Thinking about it.. could it be that 303 isn't designed to work with whatever UV/abrasion coating that is on the headlights from the factory? They clearly aren't bare polycarbonate or they'd fade right away. And once you've sanded and polished a few headlights you develop an appreciation for the difference between how the PC and the protected parts sand and polish. The stock protectant is pretty tough..

Not that 303 would attack it instantly, just maybe it doesn't hit their standards and they want to avoid the risk?

Or maybe it doesn't play nicely with the heat from headlamps?

I do see that for some people if it isn't applied correctly it makes the lenses cloudy. I currently have some of this on one car and some meguiars ultimate polish (actually a sealant) on another. Plan is to apply at the same time once a month and compare which works better.

I'm just trying to come up with ideas for why this stuff is prohibited when it seems like a natural fit.
 
Still no word on why it’s not supposed be used on headlights. I did buy a new (used) daily though, and it was a good candidate for a side-by-side comparison of 303 vs an automotive paint sealant.

On the freshly sanded/polished headlights.. 303 was terrible. Within a month there was visible hazing. Meguiars ultimate polish applied to the other headlight stayed nice and clear. I know the stuff doesn’t last very long so I’ve just put it in my monthly to-do list to refresh it.. only takes 10 minutes for both cars.

I don’t doubt 303 works for some of us. The difference possibly being the presence of some of the factory UV resistant coating?
 
Still no word on why it’s not supposed be used on headlights. I did buy a new (used) daily though, and it was a good candidate for a side-by-side comparison of 303 vs an automotive paint sealant.

On the freshly sanded/polished headlights.. 303 was terrible. Within a month there was visible hazing. Meguiars ultimate polish applied to the other headlight stayed nice and clear. I know the stuff doesn’t last very long so I’ve just put it in my monthly to-do list to refresh it.. only takes 10 minutes for both cars.

I don’t doubt 303 works for some of us. The difference possibly being the presence of some of the factory UV resistant coating?
I have used 303 on my LC headlights and tail lights for 7 years - since new. Vehicle has never been in a garage and there is zero haziness or yellowing. So it works well for the stock coating. Not sure after the yellowed lenses have been polished.
 
I have used 303 on my LC headlights and tail lights for 7 years - since new. Vehicle has never been in a garage and there is zero haziness or yellowing. So it works well for the stock coating. Not sure after the yellowed lenses have been polished.
For sure, I’m not discounting your experience. It sure seems to help the stock coating.. my lenses were quite faded at five years, compared to yours still in good shape at seven.

But it didn’t seem to do much with the sanded ones.

If I had a new car to keep minty I’d be seriously considering 303 in that application.
 
2016 LC have not had an issue yet. I have twice done headlights on my T100. Wet sand up to 1000 then spray with rattle can clear coat that has UV protectant in it. Worked both time and then just recently I replaced then with new units (after market) see how long they last. I need to do the wife Infiniti will try same trick as truck. If it work out ok that will save me about 1500 for new headlights in that car. Note also use to do a motorcycle plastic head light as described above. Good Luck
 
All this being said, it’s too bad Toyota didn’t stick with glass bulb covers. How much could the weight have mattered? Or maybe it was the cost? Either way, the glass headlights on my 24 year old 100 still look like new.
 
All this being said, it’s too bad Toyota didn’t stick with glass bulb covers. How much could the weight have mattered? Or maybe it was the cost? Either way, the glass headlights on my 24 year old 100 still look like new.
I think it was primarily the complex shape.. plus even though they yellow the poly lenses almost never actually break.

I just don’t understand why no one can come up with a UV resistant base material or a coating that can actually hold up for ten years.
 
All this being said, it’s too bad Toyota didn’t stick with glass bulb covers. How much could the weight have mattered? Or maybe it was the cost? Either way, the glass headlights on my 24 year old 100 still look like new.
My guess would be regualtory, glass lenses are probably considered more dangerous of you hit a pedestrian or something.

Definitely annoying though, the glass lenses on my buddy's 20+ year old 4runner look perfect (cuz glass), and those one my 200 are slightly hazed on top. Will strongly second 303, especially for black plastics (inside or out), the stuff is amazing.
 
My guess would be regualtory, glass lenses are probably considered more dangerous of you hit a pedestrian or something.
Good point.
 
Not complex at all comparatively to the 200 series. The pre-face lift models would be easier than the last body style, but still doable. I'd recommend taking your time and practicing with some door cups or door sill film first to get a hang of how to work the film, steps involved, patience needed, etc.

Yeah, I wouldn't trust the sam's club guy grinding on your headlights...may as well go ahead and call corporate insurance for the new headlight you'd need after they were "done."
My guess would be regualtory, glass lenses are probably considered more dangerous of you hit a pedestrian or something.

Definitely annoying though, the glass lenses on my buddy's 20+ year old 4runner look perfect (cuz glass), and those one my 200 are slightly hazed on top. Will strongly second 303, especially for black plastics (inside or out), the stuff is amazing.
My 01 LC headlamps looked fantastic for a 20 year old truck. Crystal clear. Plastic headlamps suck.
 
can you use this on xpel paint protection film?
you can definitely use GTechniq HALO on PPF. I know this will work for sure and have used it on PPF with good results.
 

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