Props to PADDO's AHC fluid replacement method! (2 Viewers)

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Just adding a few more pictures to ensure I will get the prize for worst looking fluid.

The first picture is the old fluid after it settles down.

The second picture is the fluid from the follow up bleed (fluid was new a couple days ago). Strawberry milkshake?!

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If you can bleed brakes, you can replace AHC fluid no problem.
 
Just adding a few more pictures to ensure I will get the prize for worst looking fluid.

The first picture is the old fluid after it settles down.

The second picture is the fluid from the follow up bleed (fluid was new a couple days ago). Strawberry milkshake?!

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First time I bled my system it looked like the first half of your first bottle - dark, nasty. 4 months later, when I recently changed my accumulators - strawberry milkshake. I'm wondering why? The interior parts of my globes were disintegrated, im wondering if this caused the pink, foamy look? I will do another quick bleed now that I have 4 brand new accumulators and see what the heck comes out.
 
Thanks Paddo... Yeah I figured that there is contamination in the fluid and will be doing a follow up bleeding.

How long should I wait for to do the follow up bleed? I was thinking after a tank of gas around 300miles?

Also, should I be using the AHC more often just to get the fluid mixing a bit more?

At the follow up bleed, I presume I wouldn't need to take out the fluid in the reservoir if they don't look too bad. How much more fluid should I bleed out at the follow up bleed? Until clear?

Do you think this contaminated fluid would've done some irreversible damage to the AHC system? Any symptom I should look out for? The car rides just fine and I actually feel that the car lowers and raises quicker after the fluid exchange.

Sorry for the many questions... I still kinda new to my car. Thanks.
Before doing another fluid changeout I’d do a couple of other checks. But generally, it’s good to do another fluid changeout in a few hundred miles, cycling to H and L encourages fluid transfer between the reservoir and the outer extremities. The amount of fluid displaced by the “shocks” between H and L isn’t that much actually, only the volume of the hollow piston rod so you need to work the shock actuators, the height accumulator and help the damper accumulators expel as much as they can by lowering the system’s pressure in L.
It’s speculative to comment on potential damage and long term system health. Straight water into the system probably not so bad in the short term but other auto fluids are extremely detrimental to the damper accumulator internals. How long have you owned the vehicle and what’s its service history?
That image of the strawberry milkshake shows what entrained gas (nitrogen) or air looks like and it’s pretty significant. Did you notice a sudden lowering of the fluid level in the reservoir and a coincidental stiffening of the suspension? Have you done a L to H grad count check and 16 step damper check? I ask because with a fluid sample that has so much gas/air entrained you’d expect to find a ruptured accumulator unfortunately.
 
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Before doing another fluid changeout I’d do a couple of other checks. But generally, it’s good to do another fluid changeout in a few hundred miles, cycling to H and L encourages fluid transfer between the reservoir and the outer extremities. The amount of fluid displaced by the “shocks” between H and L isn’t that much actually, only the volume of the hollow piston rod so you need to work the shock actuators, the height accumulator and help the damper accumulators expel as much as they can by lowering the system’s pressure in L.
It’s speculative to comment on potential damage and long term system health. Straight water into the system probably not so bad in the short term but other auto fluids are extremely detrimental to the damper accumulator internals. How long have you owned the vehicle and what’s its service history?
That image of the strawberry milkshake shows what entrained gas (nitrogen) or air looks like and it’s pretty significant. Did you notice a sudden lowering of the fluid level in the reservoir and a coincidental stiffening of the suspension? Have you done a L to H grad count check and 16 step damper check? I ask because with a fluid sample that has so much gas/air entrained you’d expect to find a ruptured accumulator unfortunately.

The ride quality is actually not bad... I haven’t noticed anything wrong with it. The difference between comfort/sport setting was noticeable. I’ve own this truck since last June, mileage is high, past 200k. The PO gave me the service log and it did show that fluid was low and was emphasized that special fluid was needed. The fluid was subsequently topped up with god knows what before I bought it.

I did the graduation test before the initial bleed and it had 7 grads, not optimal, but was hoping it was due to age and mileage.

How do I go about working the shocks actuators and the two accumulators? I will be cycling between H and L for the next week or so and then flush it with another gallon to see what comes out. Here’s a picture of the milkshake after leaving it overnight with the white sludge settling.

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You can get the maximum fluid reticulation by driving the front and rear hydraulic circuits between bump stops and extra high in the active test mode. The image of your settled milkshake sample is a bit worrisome - your AHC fluid (SG of ~ 0.87) is floating on an emulsion and there doesn’t appear to be any water present so I’d be concerned about brake fluid (SG ~ 1.04) in the system.
 
You can get the maximum fluid reticulation by driving the front and rear hydraulic circuits between bump stops and extra high in the active test mode. The image of your settled milkshake sample is a bit worrisome - your AHC fluid (SG of ~ 0.87) is floating on an emulsion and there doesn’t appear to be any water present so I’d be concerned about brake fluid (SG ~ 1.04) in the system.
Paddo, are you thinking the white foamy material is brake fluid? I am assuming it is the breakdown of the inner accumulator.
 
Paddo, are you thinking the white foamy material is brake fluid? I am assuming it is the breakdown of the inner accumulator.
The white emulsion in post #45? Have a look at some of my water reaction test photos and you’ll see a white scum emulsion that forms if you add brake fluid into an AHC fluid and water test sample. As accumulators degrade they naturally and gradually loose nitrogen and this shows up in the system as a few larger bubbles. If an accumulator ruptures you get a massive instant gas embolism that creates bulk foamy micro bubbles when bleed off. That image in post 45 is AHC fluid floating on a heavier emulsion of something, but not light foaming bubbles.
 
Are the 2.5l cans still available? Where's a good place to obtain? Thanks!
 
Are the 2.5l cans still available? Where's a good place to obtain? Thanks!

I have not been able to find the cans since last year. I am buying 1 Liter plastic containers (08886-81221) at my local Toyota dealer

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Thanks!

Just noticed your location. Did some of my schooling right down the road from you.

I buy OEM wiper inserts from Price LeBlanc in Gonzales as they are one of the few dealerships that stock them and dont push Sightline as the replacement since Cajuns know a little bit about rain. :)
 
No problem my friend. It rains plenty down here that much is true...chance of rain is high everywhere but Tiger Stadium!!
 
I have not been able to find the cans since last year. I am buying 1 Liter plastic containers (08886-81221) at my local Toyota dealer

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How much you paying for the single quart variety? I need to change the fluid in mine, I think I got one of the last 2.5L cans...
 
Just picked up 3L. Looking forward to getting this done and curious how it will affect the ride.
 
How much you paying for the single quart variety? I need to change the fluid in mine, I think I got one of the last 2.5L cans...

It's been a while since I bought some but I think it was around $18 per liter from dealer parts counter. Mr. T is mighty proud of this stuff!!

I just did a quick check online and looks like it can be had for cheaper but you might have to pay shipping...

08886-81221 - Toyota Parts Deal
 
Just finished it. Had a spill so unable to measure the cylinder, but all 4 actuators pulled out about 1.25 liters. New Toyota suspension fluid is just a touch pink.
 
This method worked like a charm
 
Another happy subscriber to the “PADDO method”. I’ve owned my 470 for around a month now and came in completely ignorant of AHC. Reading your info on this system has me at least somewhat understanding what is going on down there, although sometimes I have to read it a couple of times. You speak the language so fluently that the rest of us are still translating the first acronym while you’ve moved on to the next paragraph of MUD jargon, number dumps, and Techstream readouts that still look like Chinese trig to me lol. But I’m learning. Thanks so much for the info!!!
 
Edited for extra detail.

Here's a quick, easy and efficient 1 can (or 3 bottle) AHC fluid exchange/bleed procedure. By following this process you are very unlikely to get yourself into trouble by accidentally bleeding too much fluid. Furthermore, it's not at all wasteful of new fluid as you remove a considerable amount of the old fluid/gas/air and recharge the whole system with fresh fluid in just one cycle. No wasteful start/stop/bleed/start/stop...... process.

The benefits of periodically changing out the AHC/AVS systems' fluid can't be overstated as this mineral based working oil degrades with time, temperature and use. Fluid viscosity changes, anti wear, anti rust, anti foaming, anti oxidation additives deplete and the fluid picks up particulate and other contamination. Nitrogen from the accumulators permeates into the system over time and virtually all hydraulic systems will allow air to come out of fluid solution and form bubbles with use and time. The combination of degrading fluid and entrained gases affects damping performance and ultimately can't promote the maximum service life of the system. FWIW I change out the systems fluid at half the recommended service interval, or about 30k miles/3 years.

Materials required. One can of fluid (Toyota suspension fluid, AHC 08886-01805) or three of the new 1L bottles (08886-81221), clear pvc pipe that's a snug fit (3/16 ID) on the bleeders, 10mm spanner/box wrench/crows foot and a suitable waste fluid container.

This process assumes the fluid level in the reservoir is between max and min when the vehicle is at Normal height before commencing and the 5 bleeder points aren't frozen due to corrosion. If corrosion is an issue then consider spraying a penetrating oil (PB Blaster etc) on the bleeders several times over a few days beforehand and use a good quality 6 point 10mm socket wrench. If you can't open the bleed points due to rust then an option would be to drive the AHC system down to the bump stops (lower then L and returning the maximum amount of fluid back to the reservoir for removal) in Active Test Mode and remove/replenish the fluid from the reservoir and not attempt bleeding at the 5 points. Not optimal but probably better than doing nothing. Always clean around the reservoir cap and the spout of the AHC fluid can before opening and avoid introducing any contamination into the reservoir.

This maintenance activity needs to be done with the vehicle on flatish, level ground and not on a lift or with the wheels off the ground as you need the vehicle's weight to compress the shock actuators down to the bump stops to remove the maximum amount of old fluid. Don't get under the vehicle, you access the bleed points on the outer frame rails.

1. Lower the vehicle to LOW and wait 30 seconds for the AHC system to settle and then turn the vehicle OFF. Do not restart the engine until step 8. The fluid in the reservoir will now be at its highest level. Remove the reservoir filter screen and using a turkey baster or similar suction device remove as much of this old fluid as practical from the reservoir. The amount removed should equal, or be slightly over, 1 liter [if you were between Max and Min at N].
2. Replace the filter screen and pour the entire contents of a 2.5 liter can [or 2 1/2 x 1 liter bottles] of new fluid into the emptied reservoir. It will be very close to completely full.
3. Now we know that the reservoir's "normal" contents is ~ 1 liter (vehicle in L when fluid level is correct at N) and you have just filled it with 2.5 liters so you don't want to drain/bleed more than 1.5 liters or else you may end up with insufficient fluid on completion.
4. Starting at the height accumulator (12 inch long cylinder on DS outer frame rail, between front and rear damper assemblies) connect your drain tube, crack the bleeder and commence draining fluid, closing the bleeder as fluid flow stops. You should drain ~0.3 liters.
5. Move to the front LH damper assembly, connect tube, crack the bleeder and drain until the front has dropped down to the bump stops. Both sides of the vehicle will lower together (because they are hydraulically connected) and you should drain ~0.4 liters. Again close the bleeder as fluid flow stops.
6. Move to the rear LH damper assembly, connect tube, crack the bleeder and drain until the rear is close to/on the bump stops. Both sides will lower like the front did and you should drain ~0.3 liters. Again close the bleeder as fluid flow stops.
7. Now you should have drained very close to 1 liter (0.3+0.4+0.3 for healthy damper accumulator spheres; if you have degraded or blown spheres then you'll likely drain less fluid as there's limited/no nitrogen charge to expel the spheres fluid contents) leaving you about 0.5 liters "excess" in the reservoir.
8. Start the vehicle, let it idle for 30-60 seconds and then press the UP button to raise to NORMAL height. The whole system will refill and recharge with new fluid from the reservoir and the level in the reservoir will be drawn down to slightly over the max line if everything has gone as expected.
9. Turn the vehicle OFF and do a small, quick bleed on the PS front and rear damper assemblies just to check that there isn't any gas trapped. You don't need to remove very much at all from the PS as essentially all available fluid (there will always be a small residual in each shock actuator/damper that we can't access) is forced out when you do the DS dropping the vehicle down to the bump stops.
10. You're done, confirm that the reservoir fluid level is correct - between max and min at N height with the engine running. There is nothing wrong with leaving the level slightly over the max line.

As long as you don't drain more than 1.5 liters you can't mess up and accidentally draw air into the pump/system through the reservoir or be left short of fluid.

This approach is simpler than others, but slightly more elaborate than the FSM. It is intended to remove as much old fluid as practical in a quick and efficient manner. It doesn't waste new, fresh fluid like the drain/start/stop/drain/start etc method. Hopefully this method fills an information gap by associating approximate quantities drain to the height accumulator and the front/rear hydraulic circuits and gives people the confidence to undertake this simple yet critically important maintenance procedure.


Thanks to PADDO!

I did it today exactly following PADDO s procedure. It worked fine.


But, I made some beginners faults:

1)the bleeders are rotten and have worn heads, I got them working. I followed the sequence as recommended by PADDO.
It worked fine...nearby perfect with initially no waste of fluid....

Lifting the car to N for bleeding the PS, I ignored the DS (it was finished and closed- I thought...).
Checking the operation of the system I started a cycle to lift for H.
Suddenly I stood in a lake of expensive AHC fluid....
The high pressure blasted through the tightened (at correct torque) bleeders DS.
I stopped the engine, closed the bleeders with significant more torque and filled up the reservoir.

2) thinking of enough top up of lost fluid I had a sudden air aspiration of the pump (the can was positioned on the air filter housing, I filled within a fraction of a second...). Nothing bad happend, I had good luck.

The system now workes fine, well bleeded......10km driving without problems.

Although some think, I am an ideot, I post this because learning out of mistakes (also from others) works good and prevents recurrence.

Thank you PADDO for the fine working method, next time I work more focused.

Greetings from Vienna AT, Arian!
 

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