all this for that 
proposed front shock fix for clunking on lifted 100's
- Thread starter Jordan345
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Thanks for the picture. Now it's trying to figure out where the PO of your rig bought them.
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Araco Master
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The 100 is very particular in how its set up.
It must have a minimum of 65mm of droop (x25.4 for old school measurements) from ride height.
And can run up to 40mm more droop than the std oem shocks allow (droop, not shock length) with a diff drop, so the drive shafts dont pull out of the diff.
The steering arm angle is the next issue, as it pushes up on the rack, and introduces toe in, as the rack tilts, on aug 02 on models.
Bottom edge of rim to fender measurement of 775mm on 16"s is about it with a longer shock, before toe in under acceleration, and lift in the front will top the shock out.
We produced a cradle to hold the rack in place recently, now we do so many with 35"s, power upgrade (180+ rw kw and over 1000rw nm in the TD) diff gears and over 9000lb when loaded, along with firmer rack bushes.
We have been using longer Bilsteins in the front for ever with Slee diff drops, as well as longer Kings in 2.5"s, and soon Icon CDC rr .
Here in Aus we have also seen issues with the cracking a arms, which we weld, to stop happening, and the rear t bar adjusters breaking, which we have also been strengthening, with the larger load and more cycling over a longer distance with longer shocks.
It must have a minimum of 65mm of droop (x25.4 for old school measurements) from ride height.
And can run up to 40mm more droop than the std oem shocks allow (droop, not shock length) with a diff drop, so the drive shafts dont pull out of the diff.
The steering arm angle is the next issue, as it pushes up on the rack, and introduces toe in, as the rack tilts, on aug 02 on models.
Bottom edge of rim to fender measurement of 775mm on 16"s is about it with a longer shock, before toe in under acceleration, and lift in the front will top the shock out.
We produced a cradle to hold the rack in place recently, now we do so many with 35"s, power upgrade (180+ rw kw and over 1000rw nm in the TD) diff gears and over 9000lb when loaded, along with firmer rack bushes.
We have been using longer Bilsteins in the front for ever with Slee diff drops, as well as longer Kings in 2.5"s, and soon Icon CDC rr .
Here in Aus we have also seen issues with the cracking a arms, which we weld, to stop happening, and the rear t bar adjusters breaking, which we have also been strengthening, with the larger load and more cycling over a longer distance with longer shocks.
Well now that would certainly get your attention.
hoser
SILVER Star
Darren, Can you post a picture of the steering rack cradle?
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Araco Master
- Joined
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- Central Victoria, desert region.
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I could,
my preference would be to send one to see it it fits lhd racks as well, though.
my preference would be to send one to see it it fits lhd racks as well, though.
Any word on the steering rack cradle?
Reviving this very old thread, I have the exact same thing going on. Have replaced everything in the front, still have the clunk, and the "feel" from my feet. Its primarily on driver side but some times I think its coming from pass as well. My ride height is both at 21.75, you think lowering it to 21.5 would solve the issue?
Reviving your revival of this very old thread…do you have the EMU torsion bars or stock Toyota torsion bars? I have the very same issue. Emu torsion bars and rear springs with Emu shocks. I’m considering going back to stock Toyota torsion bars and cranking them up just a tad. It seems the EMU torsion bars may be a bit too stiff for these trucks.
