Project - Not so Nice

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Looks like a model that needs to be put together. Can't wait to see the build phase.
 
@S4Cruiser Jon, a little trick I learned from an old car builder years ago. When you start putting painted pieces together use wax paper between them to protect them. You can pull it out once everything is all lined up and bolts are started.

Looking good :beer:
 
@S4Cruiser Jon, a little trick I learned from an old car builder years ago. When you start putting painted pieces together use wax paper between them to protect them. You can pull it out once everything is all lined up and bolts are started.

Looking good :beer:

That's a slick trick! I also plan to run nylon washers where possible to help lesson damage where painted parts meet painted parts.

Tub interior taped off, sanded with 150 grit and wiped down with wax remover / cleaner / degreaser. Planning to mask off and shoot tinted raptor tomorrow evening then it's on to engine cleaning, gasket replacement and paint.



 
Dude!!

Keep it up man. Good job.
 
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I think this is the last of parts that need to be body colored. Yeah! Everything else will get a low gloss black urethane paint - bezel, trim peices, etc.

If Amazon would quite dropping the ball on shipping, I'd be steam cleaning the 2F tomorrow in prep for tear down.



 
You're almost there now!!! Paint booth gone, I'm sure that feels good.

Yes - very glad the booth is gone!

I painted Saturday outside under the EZup and minus a couple spots of bee poop, it worked really well. There wasn't much wind which was nice.
 
Started to get into the 2F this evening. Started slow but I'm gonna get all up in it first thing tomorrow morning!

Cleaned it up via oven cleaner and a steamer. Worked fairly well.

Don't thing this plastic thing should be loose under the distributor cap - :hmm:


Oem manifold gasket or aftermarket??




Under the valve cover doesn't look shiny but no sludge which is a plus!


Manifold bolts came off like butter...I hope I'm not using all my luck on these piddly parts.
 
Looks like an OEM gasket.

Forgot to ask, are you running stock manifolds on this engine? If so, clamp the manifolds down to a flat surface (relatively flat, welding table is fine) and clamp the exhaust manifold ears down as well. Tack weld the ears to the main exhaust manifold and bring the manifold with you to the machine shop. Have them machine the head mating surface of the manifolds flat, but make sure they do it with the intake and exhaust bolted together.
 
Looks like an OEM gasket.

Forgot to ask, are you running stock manifolds on this engine? If so, clamp the manifolds down to a flat surface (relatively flat, welding table is fine) and clamp the exhaust manifold ears down as well. Tack weld the ears to the main exhaust manifold and bring the manifold with you to the machine shop. Have them machine the head mating surface of the manifolds flat, but make sure they do it with the intake and exhaust bolted together.

Good call and yes just gonna run stock manifolds. They should adequately support the chugalug factor. Assuming the Hoff can clean the manifolds too? They look like they've been baptized in URE mud.
 
Good call and yes just gonna run stock manifolds. They should adequately support the chugalug factor. Assuming the Hoff can clean the manifolds too? They look like they've been baptized in URE mud.

Yes, they should be able to, but I'd knock the majority of the mud off. It is a machine shop afterall, don't need all kinds of mud up in their cleaning machines :)

Just make sure you take off ALL of the fittings, bolts and plugs.
 
Pulled the head just moments ago...looks a-ok. Nothing disturbing.

HG looks to not have been compromised and maybe oem.


Decent amount of carbon buildup.




Cylinder walls look GTG. No scoring to speak of! Question - best way to remove buildup from piston tops?








The othe two look the same.

Off to HD for drill, tap and plugs for this guy then a trip to the Hoff after lunch!




 
Nice!! Take those two studs out of the manifold mating surface on the head before sending it off.

I wouldn't bother with cleaning the tops of the pistons if it were me, but you certainly don't want to use a wire wheel or abrasive on them. Brake cleaner and a rag is what I'd recommend.
 
I wouldn't bother with cleaning the tops of the pistons if it were me, but you certainly don't want to use a wire wheel or abrasive on them. Brake cleaner and a rag is what I'd recommend.

Well s***...I can be down with leaving them as is!!
 
What Johnny said .... leave the pistons. In addition to it taking no time for the deposits to come back, cleaning them just adds ways for crud to get into the ring landings.
 
Jon ... Sorry if I missed some previous conversation ... is your plan to leave the bottom end untouched and only work the head?

I ask because it really would be nice to be able to deck the block for smoothness but that can only happen with the pistons/rods/crank removed.

block-1.jpg
 
Jon ... Sorry if I missed some previous conversation ... is your plan to leave the bottom end untouched and only work the head?

I ask because it really would be nice to be able to deck the block for smoothness but that can only happen with the pistons/rods/crank removed.

View attachment 1467081

Leave the bottom untouched unless I find something that pushed me to dig in deeper...which so far hasn't happened.
 

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