look at all the room you have! Looks great keep up the good work!
Rust proof that puppy so you won't have to EVER do it again....
Rust proof that puppy so you won't have to EVER do it again....
Project Mini Me (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter audaciousduo
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Thats the plan for sure. I'm just researching a good rust proofing gun. I'll do the 80 as well.
post up what you find out. I have to do this soon...
Couple questions:
when you weld all the misc. little brackets and tabs back to the body (that you had spot-weld-drilled off the old body), how did you line them up? Was it obvious? Or tons of measuring?
What paint/color did you use on the dash?
Can you come finish mine? ha ha ha
actually... it's been fun so far... of course, so far we have mostly just cut up the old BJ70. was a shame, too. Hardly any rust at all. Someone had completely repainted and done lots of body work. Frame is in pretty good shape. Too bad that tree jumped out at it.
when you weld all the misc. little brackets and tabs back to the body (that you had spot-weld-drilled off the old body), how did you line them up? Was it obvious? Or tons of measuring?
What paint/color did you use on the dash?
Can you come finish mine? ha ha ha
actually... it's been fun so far... of course, so far we have mostly just cut up the old BJ70. was a shame, too. Hardly any rust at all. Someone had completely repainted and done lots of body work. Frame is in pretty good shape. Too bad that tree jumped out at it.
- Thread starter
- #65
Some of the minor tabs like the ones for the fuse box are not critical to line up as long as they are close and the fuse box fits in the recessed foot well. The ones the heater box and dash assembly hang off need to get measured out. I measured them while they were on the old LHD fire wall and then drilled the spot welds out. Mark them on the new fire wall, clean the paint off where you will weld it on, spray on a good weld through primer and rosette weld the hole from the old spot weld. There were a few tabs I tacked and test fit first because there was nothing square to measure off. The peddle boss and gas peddle brackets need to be assembled in place and tacked on before you weld them in for good. Bolt up the re enforcing bar for the dash to the peddle boss and to the A pillar to make sure the peddle boss is bang on before tacking it in place. I also bolted up the peddles to ensure that everything lined up perfect. This is paramount or you will have alignment issues see the reposted image below.
The dash was just a rattle can that was a satin finish. It was supposed to be the latest and greatest just spray on paint. A word to the wise, seal it with an epoxy primer first. I ended up with a couple of fish eyes and had to sand and repaint because of the latest and greatest paint. A tip regarding most epoxy primers: You can spray your next primer or paint over it wet on wet. By that I mean wait until the epoxy primer flashes down (looses the shiny wet look) and spray the paint right on top. There is no need to sand in-between coats because you will have a much stronger chemical bond. Obviously check the data sheet on the paint or primer you are using but this is the best method the vast majority of time.
Keep me posted on your build.
The dash was just a rattle can that was a satin finish. It was supposed to be the latest and greatest just spray on paint. A word to the wise, seal it with an epoxy primer first. I ended up with a couple of fish eyes and had to sand and repaint because of the latest and greatest paint. A tip regarding most epoxy primers: You can spray your next primer or paint over it wet on wet. By that I mean wait until the epoxy primer flashes down (looses the shiny wet look) and spray the paint right on top. There is no need to sand in-between coats because you will have a much stronger chemical bond. Obviously check the data sheet on the paint or primer you are using but this is the best method the vast majority of time.
Keep me posted on your build.
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Rustproofing and Undercoating System - Undercoating Frames - Rocker Panel Undercoating - Eastwood
Shop 3M: 3M Rust Fighter-I Application Wand, 08998 with this Shop 3M: 3M Rust Fighter-I, 08891, 1 Quart (US) and this Shop 3M: 3M Body Schutz Applicator Gun, 08997
The WURTH Multi Sprayer Tools|WURTH USA Inc.
This is the one I have, which has two wands Item No.: AU51933 Undercoating Guns ( a 360 tip and a directional trip) attached to a spray pot you fill up with the product of your choice: Fluid Film, 3M Rust Fighter 1, Proform PF708, etc. Got it at Lordco Body Shop a number of years ago.
Sent you an email.
gb
- Thread starter
- #67
Thanks Greg
The Eastwood set up looks like a decent deal I may have a closer look at that. I have a schutz gun but it doesn't like the proform rust proofing compound I bought. Its like tar and I have to reduce the heck out of it. I get ahold of you in three weeks when I'm free again.
The Eastwood set up looks like a decent deal I may have a closer look at that. I have a schutz gun but it doesn't like the proform rust proofing compound I bought. Its like tar and I have to reduce the heck out of it. I get ahold of you in three weeks when I'm free again.
- Thread starter
- #68
It's ALIVE!
Well, the old girl is running again and I'm down to the short strokes. Despite using the complete unmolested wiring loom from the old 70 I have one gremlin. The light for the cigarette lighter stays on! No biggie but I'm a luddite when it comes to wiring so it will take me longer than most to track down. My high beam switch is shot as well. Everything else works fine! I have the old 24 volt column but I'm sure they are not interchangeable. I've got the stereo installation, seat modifications, complete rust proofing to go and the LHD cowl screen to paint but I'm moving along ahead of schedule. I like the look of stamped tin grill of the old Canadian 70 over the plastic JDM one. Done for today, going hunting for cut throat trout
Well, the old girl is running again and I'm down to the short strokes. Despite using the complete unmolested wiring loom from the old 70 I have one gremlin. The light for the cigarette lighter stays on! No biggie but I'm a luddite when it comes to wiring so it will take me longer than most to track down. My high beam switch is shot as well. Everything else works fine! I have the old 24 volt column but I'm sure they are not interchangeable. I've got the stereo installation, seat modifications, complete rust proofing to go and the LHD cowl screen to paint but I'm moving along ahead of schedule. I like the look of stamped tin grill of the old Canadian 70 over the plastic JDM one. Done for today, going hunting for cut throat trout
looking good!
- Thread starter
- #71
Rolling again
I'm rolling again, well sort of. I've got my rust proofing done. Still have the interior to finish stereo to install and some minor wiring. The old 3B keeps stalling about 10 seconds after it starts. It ran fine before so I think I'm getting air in the fuel line. I've got to track that down but I'm getting close. It sure is dirty from all the sanding and grinding.
I'm rolling again, well sort of. I've got my rust proofing done. Still have the interior to finish stereo to install and some minor wiring. The old 3B keeps stalling about 10 seconds after it starts. It ran fine before so I think I'm getting air in the fuel line. I've got to track that down but I'm getting close. It sure is dirty from all the sanding and grinding.
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what did you use for rust proofing? do share!
- Thread starter
- #73
Greg was kind enough to lend me his spray gun and I used about a gallon of the Proform waxoil knock off.
- Thread starter
- #74
Maiden voyage! Took the 70 out today and other than I put the steering wheel on cockeyed it was great. I didn't notice a huge difference between the 4.11's and the 3.70's that came in the Canadian BJ70. As far as the RHD to LHD it drove the same as my old LHD truck but much quieter with no rust holes in it. I'm officially on the road but never done. Sliders, from locker, rear bumper, suspension seats and on and on to go but at least I'm on the road.
awesome! that must feel good to have completed such a long project.
Thanks again for the advice! and finding the donor 70 series.
I'm about two weekends away from being on the road. I hope.
Interior nearly done. Underhood is 75% done. steering box: went with a mini-truck box. the box on my donor was old, hard to get rebuilt (70 series are rare in U.S.) and marlin had a nice scab plate kit which made it easy.
Thanks again for the advice! and finding the donor 70 series.
I'm about two weekends away from being on the road. I hope.
Interior nearly done. Underhood is 75% done. steering box: went with a mini-truck box. the box on my donor was old, hard to get rebuilt (70 series are rare in U.S.) and marlin had a nice scab plate kit which made it easy.
- Thread starter
- #76
Nice work! I'm thinking a Prado converted LHD would be cool. Maybe I'll try it if I can get one with a dead engine cheap.
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We use a gun similar to the Wurth unit with several different tips (on extension tubes) that you can spray, fan, or omni-directional mist into/onto the panels.
Look at dripless oil and wax based (amber) rust proofers. Use dripless oil in really hard to get areas where you will never have contact with the parts. Use the amber (wax based) in areas that you will get back into, as it dries but stays soft. The oil spray will get on everything you touch.... and it's very messy to work around (ie: when someone sprays the outside surfaces of their frame with it - YUCK! )
~~John
~John
Look at dripless oil and wax based (amber) rust proofers. Use dripless oil in really hard to get areas where you will never have contact with the parts. Use the amber (wax based) in areas that you will get back into, as it dries but stays soft. The oil spray will get on everything you touch.... and it's very messy to work around (ie: when someone sprays the outside surfaces of their frame with it - YUCK! )
~~John
~John
- Thread starter
- #78
His and Hers
Ahhh, the happy couple together again. Notice the look of envy on my 70 over the E-Lockers on the wife's 80. The 80 was going to be the original project, lift, winch sliders ect. That was before the minister of finance (wife) drove it. Leather, AC all the bells and whistles. That was the end of project "Dr Evil" and the beginning if project "mini me". The 70 looks great but that locked 80 will probably still give it a run for its money even in stock form. I wonder if she would miss that rear locker?
Ahhh, the happy couple together again. Notice the look of envy on my 70 over the E-Lockers on the wife's 80. The 80 was going to be the original project, lift, winch sliders ect. That was before the minister of finance (wife) drove it. Leather, AC all the bells and whistles. That was the end of project "Dr Evil" and the beginning if project "mini me". The 70 looks great but that locked 80 will probably still give it a run for its money even in stock form. I wonder if she would miss that rear locker?
crushers
post ho
Just found this thread. Very nice job on the conversion. Cheers
