Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (1 Viewer)

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Well since the upper end is tore apart on the motor I decided to get it a little more assembled before I work on the transmission.

I media blasted a few more parts tonight

Cam gear cover

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TB tensioner - preblast


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Post blast
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New Timing belt and waterpump

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Cam cover with 6 coats of satin black hammerite


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Looking good
 
I made quite a bit of forward progress today. Started out replacing the starter solenoid contacts.

I paid full retail for them yesterday. 31bux because I was impatient, and forgot to order them from my buddy who runs vancouver toyota parts dept :rolleyes:

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Thought I would post this incase anyone else needs it. But I dont know what the rule is for posting toyota material on here so mods if I need to delete this let me know.

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Terminal "C" parts

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Terminal "30" parts

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The case all broken down. It was right about this time when I was considering rebuilding and dressing up the whole starter but decided agains it due to already having a butt load to do

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The plunger that makes contact with the two copper terminals that are being replaced. This is also a service item but mine apeared to have about 70% of the material left so I didnt replace it.

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I should note, you dont need to break the starter down this much to do the contacts but I wanted to check the whole thing since I have no idea of the previous service it saw.

I cleaned up the armature while I was in the motor portion

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Brushes have a ton of life left on them

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I cleaned out all of the dust and dirt before installing the new parts

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I did clean alot of the oxidized parts on the starter. And I couldnt resist painting this one part with black wrinkle finish

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After re-assy (I do kinda wish I had taken the time to paint all the parts)

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Moved on to the transmission to get that OD sensor installed in the boss I drilled out on the A343F case.

SuperRunner said I may have some dramma with the clutches.
He was right, no way I was going to risk throwing it back together not knowing for sure if all the clutches were engaged.
I ended up pulling both packs of clutches apart because one set fell out :doh:

Super easy to take apart and put back together. Makes me wonder how these things hold up so well.

I got the parts out of the A340F tundra transmission since that planetary drive had the reluctor ring spot welded to it.



This cir-clip is all that holds the clutches in ! Crazy

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You can see how easy it comes out, and releases the plates and discs

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The tundra parts about to go into the A343F

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With the sensor installed to read the reluctor ring :clap:

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Saweeeeeeeeeet ! :hillbilly:


:wrench:
 
Nice!! Way to think!
 
The other night I sandblasted the valve covers. They have an oil baffle on the underside thats spot welded or stamped into the valve cover. It makes cleaning all the media blast material out of it a real bitch !

I cleaned them with brake clean prior to putting them into the cabinet but it was still a mofu

The wife had an idea to use oxyclean. I dont know how this is going to turn out since they are aluminum and oxidized the minute I put them in the scalding hot bath. I ran hot water and oxy thru them 4 times. Oxy clean FTMFW !

Anyone know if im going to have issues with painting them now ? Will they be trying to offgas thru the paint ?

Heres the mess they made in the janitors closet

Cleaning bubbles

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YUK ! Glad this didnt go into the engine. Ka thud. Grit and goo

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I was taking the time to media blast and paint all the pulleys. "cast finish" paint on the pulleys and black covers with black boltz.

I like the way its turning out.

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I had my first fubar of the project though.
I was attempting to take off the pull on the serpantine tensioner, but forgot they are reverse threads. The cast pot metal housing was no match for the 14mm on a breaker bar

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Gotta ring up the stealership tomorrow :mad:

Front shot about 50% re-assy'd

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Got smore wiring cleaned up too.


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The tundra harness carried a VSS signal thru the trans portion of the harness. It was about 8" short of making it to the HF2AV case. The stock FJ harness had an 18" extension with one side going to the VSS with a rubber boot on it. I snipped off the triangle plug and grafted that into the tundra harness. A little solder and heat shrink.

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Check out this harness I found from the A442F. This thing wouldnt know WTF to do with missing pins :lol:
(not being used)

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EC-1 carries the wires for the t-case actuator and sensors

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My parting shot for the evening :hhmm:









:wrench:
 
Excuse the ignorance not familiar with the tranny and t-case #'s . What is the tranny out of? And that is the stock T-case?
Awesome job BTW
 
Excuse the ignorance not familiar with the tranny and t-case #'s . What is the tranny out of? And that is the stock T-case?
Awesome job BTW
The case is out of the FJ. The transmission is out of a later model cruiser and lexus LX450. (A343F)
I used the LX450 transmission because it had the right size output shaft with the adapter to go to the stock transfercase already. But I didnt want to screw with the throttle valve cable that normally hooks to the FJ throttle body. The tundra transmission A340F is all electronic so I swapped the valve bodies. The tundra ecu is what i'll be using so if all goes right the ecu wont know there is anything different than stock.

Heres a whole page of info from wikipedia
Wikipedia_toyota_trans_info
 
Good progress today
I fixed the messed up serpantine tensioner by drilling and taping a regular right hand thread 10x1.50 bolt all the way thru the housing.

Assembled

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The steel heater hoses had a bit of corrosion and rust.
I cleaned them up with 120grit paper and gavem a coat of satin black hammerite.

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The motor being man handled solo. Im only 5'-7" and a buck eighty wet.

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Let me save you future motor swappers some time. Take the exhaust manifolds and motor mounts off the donor before dropping it in. For some reason I thought I could make it all work.

Im at the point now where I need to "massage" the trans tunnel about 3/4" in a 6"x6" area with a BFH. I didnt want to but...

The center diff lock actuator hits the body

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That way the motor can come back 2" and up 3" to get rid of the tilted drivetrain

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:wrench:
 
Your right... something must be in the air. Read this in full. Great writeup. Thanks for documenting this for those of us who are electronics dumb.
 
The case is out of the FJ. The transmission is out of a later model cruiser and lexus LX450. (A343F)
I used the LX450 transmission because it had the right size output shaft with the adapter to go to the stock transfercase already. But I didnt want to screw with the throttle valve cable that normally hooks to the FJ throttle body. The tundra transmission A340F is all electronic so I swapped the valve bodies. The tundra ecu is what i'll be using so if all goes right the ecu wont know there is anything different than stock.

Heres a whole page of info from wikipedia
Wikipedia_toyota_trans_info

That wikipedia page seems out of line with regards to the LX470 transmissions. States they start in 1996 when it wasn't until 1998 and it is missing the 1996-1998 80 series all together. It seems they should clarify that this includes the 80 series and LX450...Had me confused for a bit but I now see they are all the same trans thru the series change. Thank you for the clarification on all of the parts used. Great writeup so far.
 
^ Your right about that. Im not confident enough to go and edit that page but if someone else on here is sure of all the changes i'll make them on wiki, or you can. You just need to hit edit.

Your welcome. I hope this thread keeps getting better.
 
Im at the point now where I need to "massage" the trans tunnel about 3/4" in a 6"x6" area with a BFH. I didnt want to but...

The center diff lock actuator hits the body

Oops, forgot to mention that in my limited writeup.
 
Oops, forgot to mention that in my limited writeup.

I would be intrested to see or hear what you did with the cross member. I cut up the stock one with intention to modify it, but in hind sight I could have just plated it and added material to canteliver out to match the trans mount.
 
I did that too, but then scrapped it. I made mine out of 8x2 c-channel, which I plan to box in. I will take pictures later today.
 
I did that too, but then scrapped it. I made mine out of 8x2 c-channel, which I plan to box in. I will take pictures later today.

That would be awesome I appreciate it.

On another note I didnt get a whole lot done today. I wanted to fab mounts but didnt have any square tube steel.

I had someone contact me to get some tundra parts.
He swung by the house in his tundra to get my rear trd leafs and bilstein shocks, front trd coils and bilsteins.

Long story short, we bartered and I came out with this :grinpimp: !!!

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7 Pairs of piaa lights, switches and relays, shovel, ham radio antenna and CB antenna for 250bux plus the tundra parts :clap:

SCORE ! can you tell im stoked !

So I havent posted the price I paid for the FJ but im going to do it now despite my embarassment for paying about double what it was worth.

Expendatures
$4800 - Project EffJay Eighty
$1000 - Tundra for donor parts
$700 - A343F transmission ala LX450
$160 - Water pump, timing belt
$31 - Starter contacts
$250 - Safari rack w/piaa lights
$20 - Misc rattle can paint and cleaners
$6961 - Total give or take

Income
$150 - Right front tundra door
$50 - Two front door panels
$60 - Scrap metal for 70% of the truck (still have a little scrap)
$50 - FJ Starter and PS pump
$30 - FJ AC compressor
$350 - Incoming

So im into this thing $6,611 thus far. I could potentially sell one or more of the 7 sets of $200 per pair piaa's and come out way ahead but for now im gonna keep em and light up the camp site and neighborhood :steer:
 
Aside from the above I did get the valve covers finished and im really happy with them.
I went ferrari wrinkle red (aka type r red, ricer red etc...)

I always liked red accents on a white car. Im sure its not everyones cup of tea but thats why I live in the republic the americas.

Its VHT wrinkle red paint SP204. I tried this stuff about 6 years ago with bad luck and ended up paying to have some stuff powder coated instead. What I didnt realize was that to make the finish look really good you need to cook the paint.

I was damn sure not going to stink up the house by putting these things in the oven, and I dont need a spare "powder coat" oven in the garage since theres already no room.

This is what the wife and I came up with :idea: and it worked awesome

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If you remember I had oxy-cleaned these things a few days ago and they soaked in the water for a little while so this morning I threw them in the bbq to dry-em out a bit. They sweat out for about 15min at 150deg til they were nice and dry.

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Then I took the sharp edges off the castings. I didnt want to smooth them out entirely, just take the sharp edge off so the paint wouldnt flake in those areas

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Clean them with degreaser and taped up the holes

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I didnt get any pix of the spray process cause I was worried that they would flash off too quick. So I ran out to warm up the grill err I mean curing machine

Heres how they looked after 20min

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Red is always a hard color to capture with crappy cameras, so just think ferrari red.

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Shhh dont tell the wife they came in thru the house or that they were anywhere near the counter top.

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:wrench:
 
^^^those are baddass!
 

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