Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

That is awesome. I wonder what you can do with a George Foreman Grill.
 
Great look with the valve covers. I always did like the Honda/Acura white look with red on the Type R stuff. The same colors will look great on your Toyota.
 
That would be awesome I appreciate it.

On another note I didnt get a whole lot done today. I wanted to fab mounts but didnt have any square tube steel.

I had someone contact me to get some tundra parts.
He swung by the house in his tundra to get my rear trd leafs and bilstein shocks, front trd coils and bilsteins.

Long story short, we bartered and I came out with this :grinpimp: !!!

DSC08600.jpg


DSC08599.jpg


7 Pairs of piaa lights, switches and relays, shovel, ham radio antenna and CB antenna for 250bux plus the tundra parts :clap:

SCORE ! can you tell im stoked !

So I havent posted the price I paid for the FJ but im going to do it now despite my embarassment for paying about double what it was worth.

Expendatures
$4800 - Project EffJay Eighty
$1000 - Tundra for donor parts
$700 - A343F transmission ala LX450
$160 - Water pump, timing belt
$31 - Starter contacts
$250 - Safari rack w/piaa lights
$20 - Misc rattle can paint and cleaners
$6961 - Total give or take

Income
$150 - Right front tundra door
$50 - Two front door panels
$60 - Scrap metal for 70% of the truck (still have a little scrap)
$50 - FJ Starter and PS pump
$30 - FJ AC compressor
$350 - Incoming

So im into this thing $6,611 thus far. I could potentially sell one or more of the 7 sets of $200 per pair piaa's and come out way ahead but for now im gonna keep em and light up the camp site and neighborhood :steer:

Holy spot lights Batman! :cool: Great deal. Im digging the valve covers! Great choice.
 
That would be awesome I appreciate it.

On another note I didnt get a whole lot done today. I wanted to fab mounts but didnt have any square tube steel.

I had someone contact me to get some tundra parts.
He swung by the house in his tundra to get my rear trd leafs and bilstein shocks, front trd coils and bilsteins.

Long story short, we bartered and I came out with this :grinpimp: !!!

DSC08600.jpg


DSC08599.jpg


7 Pairs of piaa lights, switches and relays, shovel, ham radio antenna and CB antenna for 250bux plus the tundra parts :clap:

SCORE ! can you tell im stoked !

So I havent posted the price I paid for the FJ but im going to do it now despite my embarassment for paying about double what it was worth.

Expendatures
$4800 - Project EffJay Eighty
$1000 - Tundra for donor parts
$700 - A343F transmission ala LX450
$160 - Water pump, timing belt
$31 - Starter contacts
$250 - Safari rack w/piaa lights
$20 - Misc rattle can paint and cleaners
$6961 - Total give or take

Income
$150 - Right front tundra door
$50 - Two front door panels
$60 - S**** metal for 70% of the truck (still have a little s****)
$50 - FJ Starter and PS pump
$30 - FJ AC compressor
$350 - Incoming

So im into this thing $6,611 thus far. I could potentially sell one or more of the 7 sets of $200 per pair piaa's and come out way ahead but for now im gonna keep em and light up the camp site and neighborhood :steer:

These trucks require some money to mod. You didn't pay alot to get the truck you wanted. A job well done.:cheers: You have a great foundation for future mods. Websites like Lextreme will make your job so much easier when you decide to pursue crazy horsepower. They have their :censor: together over there.
 
I am definately enjoying the info on this swap. I do have two questions.

1) how easy will it be to get to the alternator when everything is put back together. how do you think the alternator will hold up and I guessing it might need to be replaced after mild water crossings.

2) how will the stock fuel system work for the 2uz? Do you need to modify anything with the fzj fuel system?

Great thread. I am hoping it works out for you for my selfish reasons:flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
The alternator will be relativly easy to get to. Its the AC pump thats will require the motor to be lifted or dropped on one side to get access.
Im not sure how the alt will hold up. But I had the one in my 4runner submerged completely for minutes at a time, along time ago and it held up ok.

The stock fuel system is already fuel injected so im going to drop in the tundra pump and should be good to go. I have an extra walbro 255lph but im going to stick to the denso for now.

Thanks for the positive complements guys. They keep me motivated :D
 
Picked up some 1"x4" rectangle tube for the cross member last night

DSC08617.jpg


Cut some plates for the frame mount


DSC08620.jpg


Profiled to match the factory x-member mount just because I want to keep this as simple as possible

DSC08621.jpg



Heres how I see the first part coming together. I lost the keys for both of my drill chucks in the move, so that put the kaibosh on this evenings activities :doh:

DSC08626.jpg


Ill weld the ends closed

DSC08627.jpg



There will be a second piece of tube in front of this one that cantilevers the mount out 6"




:wrench:
 
Get pimp and cut off the last 3" from the sides of the tube, taper the face and triangle plate it? One less thing to have look smooth and clean? Probably too much work though.
 
Out of curiosity have you ever checked your AFR's ?

I am running the stock 3FE pump, and it is fine. If there was a problem, my OBDII would tell me. I could hook up my wideband to verify though.

And sorry, I haven't taken pics of my crossmember yet, my entire family has got sick including myself. These last few days have been hell.
 
Get pimp and cut off the last 3" from the sides of the tube, taper the face and triangle plate it? One less thing to have look smooth and clean? Probably too much work though.
Im not 100% sure I understand but, I do plan to taper he face and plate it. I would do something more fancy if the bolts werent in the way. If they didnt have to be slotted I would actually french them in with tube.

I am running the stock 3FE pump, and it is fine. If there was a problem, my OBDII would tell me. I could hook up my wideband to verify though.

And sorry, I haven't taken pics of my crossmember yet, my entire family has got sick including myself. These last few days have been hell.

Im going to hookup my cheap halmeter to see where im at.

Get well. I just got over a tonsil infection myself :frown:
 
I've only been getting about hour or so per night to work on this thing.

Heres what I got done tonight

Holes drilled

DSC08631.jpg


And sloted with a carbide bit in the die grinder to match the factory x-member


DSC08633.jpg



Amazingly they bolted right up

DSC08635.jpg



Tapered the ends of the tube

DSC08636.jpg



DSC08640.jpg



Tacked in place

DSC08641.jpg



DSC08642.jpg


Booger welds





DSC08643.jpg


This is as far as I got this evening




:wrench:
 
Get me a good shot of how the crossmember turns out, I literally thought that up in the moment of replying that I was watching this thread. :D

Oh, and of course be sure to get a good vid clip of a drive by, then clip in the youtube link! Makes it so worth it in the end to show the differences!

ie:

The 2uz swapped one: YouTube - 1991 Toyota landcruiser 2uz 4.7 v8 swap driveby

Oh, and of course these monsters:
YouTube - Twin Turbo 427 Chevy in Toyota Landcruiser on Transbrake

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4AlRtexS5E
 
I ended up running out of welding wire and gas at the same time so it put an end to the night before I finished the x-member.


DSC08648.jpg




DSC08649.jpg



The stock xmember has an insert thats spot welded. I figured why remake something that can be reused.

DSC08653.jpg


DSC08651.jpg


Drill out the spot welds

DSC08654.jpg



Heres the insert

DSC08655.jpg


Insert in the new x-member

DSC08657.jpg



Drilled out the back side of the new x-member to give it a few rosette welds

DSC08658.jpg



DSC08659.jpg





DSC08660.jpg


Burned in the mounts

DSC08662.jpg


DSC08663.jpg


The hoop that the trans mount will sit on.

DSC08667.jpg


DSC08670.jpg


DSC08671.jpg
 
Awesome work and what a patience my friend

I would be throwing up with all the wiring
 
DSC08662.jpg


Those are some decent welds, but it looks like the vertical (be parallel to vehicle when mounted) is concave (caved in, almost like a valley). When i was first learning to weld I was laying vertical welds in that fashion because they looked pretty and just worked for me. BUT they broke one hell of alot easier. More or less tore in half with two hammer blows vs. the others just bending.

Although, I doubt that would be a problem in your case as there is atleast two more welds supporting the crossbar.

My certs in ARC, but i MIG most of the time for its quickness.
 
Those are some decent welds, but it looks like the vertical (be parallel to vehicle when mounted) is concave (caved in, almost like a valley). When i was first learning to weld I was laying vertical welds in that fashion because they looked pretty and just worked for me. BUT they broke one hell of alot easier. More or less tore in half with two hammer blows vs. the others just bending.

Although, I doubt that would be a problem in your case as there is atleast two more welds supporting the crossbar.

My certs in ARC, but i MIG most of the time for its quickness.

Concave like not enough filler material, almost like its built up to the edge ? I had the heat up pretty good. I think I got good penetration with the weld.
Im intrested in what you have to say though. I want to become a better welder.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom