- Thread starter
- #321
Thats odd, it definitely should not be on when the alternator is not spinning. The relay might be stuck in the energized state.
Wired per what wiring diagram, FJ62 or 1969 FJ40?
Builds Project "Devil Frog" - Isaac's '69 FJ40
- Thread starter Devil Frog
- Start date
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Wired per what wiring diagram, FJ62 or 1969 FJ40?
It's an FJ60 alternator, so FJ60/62 wiring. Light is on with the engine off and on.
- Thread starter
- #323
Has it always done that? Does your 4Runner have this feature, if so does it only light up when the engine is running? I am guessing the purpose is a diagnostic to know that you alternator is properly charging, so it doesn't seem like there would be a negative consequence until you have a bad alternator.
Where on. the dash did you stick the light?
- Thread starter
- #324
this is how I am planning to wire the 3FE alternator:
Any red flags?
Any red flags?
- Thread starter
- #325
I’m supposed to be doing my wiring, but I got to the rear signals and running lights and I had none, and they going to go in bumper but I had no rear bumper, so now I’m fabricating the rear bumper! I’m really glad I upgraded my Welder a few months back.
- Thread starter
- #326
Very nice @Devil Frog
- Thread starter
- #328
So I’m debating on whether to weld the bumper on to the frame, or to go with some type of bracket bolt on method. Any suggestions, comments, or lessons learned?
Brackets and bolts. Some day you will hate the bumper and want to do something different.
- Thread starter
- #330
But if I weld it, I’ll have end up hating it more than using the grinder
Bolt on is ideal.
If it was a Jeep, weld right on the frame. Who cares about welding to junk? But this is much more valuable. I wouldn't weld something on that can easily be bolted on/off without impacting it's functionality.
Eh, it's more about repair. If you bend up a rear bumper because you snag a ledge, or someone rear ends you, it's easier to repair the bumper if it's not welded on the truck.
My front bumper is welded into the frame, integrated with my winch mount and front crossmember, but my rear bumper will bolt on.
My front bumper is welded into the frame, integrated with my winch mount and front crossmember, but my rear bumper will bolt on.
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
I figure if you have the ability to weld it on you can just as easily cut it off.
- Thread starter
- #335
Making some more progress on the rear bumper. I want to OEM tail lights to preserve the FJ40 character even though this is a resto-mod vs pure restoration. The light housings are deeper than the 2”x4” rectangular tube, so I’m either going to have to make a spacer on the outside surface or cut open the back. I’m going to have to put a hole in the back anyway to get the wire harness out.
Dumpolina
SILVER Star
I hope you don't weld it on. You can make a pretty simple frame stiffening "L" bracket on the back side of the channel, if I remember correctly, that'll sandwich the rear cross member between the bracket and bumper.
You can make a guard around the lights to bring them out... actually I'd put a guard around them either way.
I'll take a pic of the way we used to do them... Unless @juane has a pic of his 60 bumper with the 40 tail lights?
You can make a guard around the lights to bring them out... actually I'd put a guard around them either way.
I'll take a pic of the way we used to do them... Unless @juane has a pic of his 60 bumper with the 40 tail lights?
Dumpolina
SILVER Star
Sorry fir lame image quality
The bolts on the 40 go through the crossmember to the L brackets on the outside of the frame and the hitch bolt holes in the center of the frame, again IIRC.
The other pics show the light guards. @TOYOTARIG i thing that last one is your rig
The bolts on the 40 go through the crossmember to the L brackets on the outside of the frame and the hitch bolt holes in the center of the frame, again IIRC.
The other pics show the light guards. @TOYOTARIG i thing that last one is your rig
- Thread starter
- #338
Actually I was leaning towards welding. I’m running an external rear fuel tank, and it has a skid plate on it, there’s not access to the inside of the frame for bolts and brackets. I figure I will need to occasionally tighten bolts if it’s bolted on and I don’t wanna have to drop my fuel tank and remove the skid pad every time I do that.
I was thinking of welding some light guards.
- Thread starter
- #339
Nice job.
