Project: Albert 99 UZJ100 (1 Viewer)

[bull]

Torsion Bar Install

Slide the Torque Arm back onto the torsion bar so it can easily be removed.

RH torsion bar installed

 

[bull]

Diff Drop Install

Stock Differential Bracket loacated between the two new torsion bars. You will need a 12mm and remove the steel skid plate.

Backside of differential bracket, note the attachment point

Another angle

 

[bull]

Diff Drop Install

Supporting the diff.

Another angle

Spacer added 17mm needed

 

[bull]

Diff Drop Install

New bracket installed.

Rear spacer added

New bracket with spacers

Spacer and new hardware for the steel skidplate

 

[bull]

Rear Coils and Shocks

Someone once said the rear is easier. F-that noise!!!

New Beefy 863s

Rear sway bar disconnected 12mm. Lower shock mount disconnected 17mm. Note the 2 jacks holding the axle up.

 

[bull]

Rear Coils and Shocks

After 40 minutes of fighting the top hardware piece on the stock shock. 19mm preferably a jointed speed wrench. This was the hardest part yet.

 

[bull]

Can you make this out? Its a 19mm wrench around the top of the stock shock.

Get the wrench on top of the nut. Then spin the top part of the shock until the 19mm wrench is wedge against the frame. Then use the worst tool for every job to break the nut loose by slowly turning. This will destroy your stock shock, But easily remove the nut. Do the same to put on the new shock on but use your hands to spin the shock till you can't anymore then slowly use your gear wrench

 

[bull]

Rear Coils and Shocks

Gently adding the bottom bushing. Rubber mallet and spit..

Here is a pick of all 3 shocks. Stock, N101s, N74L

 

[bull]

Rear Coils and Shocks

Disconnected the lateral control rod 24mm nut, 19mm bolt

Disconnected the brake line bracket, parking brake bracket X 2, and breather hose

New shocks attached to the top. Loose on the bottom.

 

[bull]

Rear Coils and Shocks

Old Coil and New Coil. Thicker diameter and heavier like me..

Side View

Drop the diff via the jacks to almost the ground. Watch the brake and parking brake lines for tension. Once you get far enough you can remove the spring and then this..

 

[bull]

Driver side. Slowly jack up the axle and make sure the springs are seated. Re-connect everything leaving the lateral control rod connected but not torqued. You will torque it once the vehicle is on the ground.

 

[bull]

Rear Bumper painted

Shiny black

uno mas..

 

[bull]

Sanded, Primed, painted on the outside...

 

[bull]

Lift on..

So the lift is complete minus tweaking and some fab work for the back end (brackets and lowering the bump stops). After indexing the torsion bars and guestimating I was almost spot on. The front is exactly 1" higher without any adjustment. I will lift it up and adjust them to get the proper height. The rear came out 2.75" higher. I hopped on the rear bumper and it didn't budge at all. Quick test drive and no major issues. Better pics in the AM.

More to report tomorrow.

 

[wngrog]

Awesome, awesome, awesone writeup. This is going to help me SO much when I install my stuff.

OK, for the rear. Isn't it basically the same as a FJ-80 install? I have never pulled the brake lines and the lateral control arm.

My trick is to do one side at a time and use a bottle jack to extent the axle enought to pull the spring and then ad the new one. I am wondering is that will work on my 100.

 

[skypig]

Can't imagine a better thread . . . thanks for taking the time to share your work and progress.

I am excited to see the bumpers go on . . .

 

[EL_3grab]

thats great man .. i want to see the finshing result .. all the best ..

 

[uzj100]

Damn dude, what are you doing sleeping or something? This is like the best thread ever. THanks for all the pics.

uzj100

 

[spressomon]

Great pics and great write up!


What winch?

 

[hoser]

Hey Bull--

It's 7:30am! Coffee break is over. Let's continue this Mod-Marathon!! Seriously, nice work!!