Project: Albert 99 UZJ100
- Thread starter bull
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FWIW: I should have my Warn 9.5XP stuffed into my TJM T3C this weekend...hopefully! Pics forthcoming.
- Thread starter
- #184
Santi,
The OME's worked well! With the Slee bumper, spare, and great dane it may sag about a 1/4"
The OME's worked well! With the Slee bumper, spare, and great dane it may sag about a 1/4"
You should maintain a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] of droop in the 100 IFS front set up, if you have a Slee diff drop fitted, to stop the cv boots wearing out. [boot pleats shouldnt be touching in straight ahead position at ride height]
This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels.
on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.
Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]
This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels.
on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.
Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]
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- #187
sJs said:
I raised the torsion bars and measured how much the front tire would drop. I have about 3" of play right now. I could go another .25 if I wanted.
I didn't count the turns, just adjust the measured the drop in the front.
uHu
Bridgeburner
bull said:
So, whatsup, - we want more.
More of your build-up.
More pix.
bull-- seriously, how does it drive on road with the lift and 315s?johnroyale said:
johnroyale said:
If Bull doesn't answer, I'll be glad to.
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- #191
johnroyale said:
It handles the same and is more tight around corners. I also noticed the ride is a bit stiffer from cranking the torsion bars, but not bad..overall I'm happy with the pimp ride..
I was hoping you wouldn't say that, now I HAVE to strongly consider the same setup.bull said:
bull said:
The torsion bars are the same tension no matter where the adjuster is, the adjuster just determines the height the vehicle sits at, in relation to the amount of torsional strength in the torsion bar.
Adjuster is like adding a coil spacer to a coil spring, no rate change, just different height.
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- Thread starter
- #194
ats4x4dotcom said:
It was a figure of speech..
I believe if you adjust your torsion bars too much it will affect the ride of the vehicle by limiting the droop of the front tires (and that is what I'm talking about); Thus giving you a stiffer ride. At least that is my experience with other IFS set ups I have come in contact with.
bull said:
Wont give you a stiffer ride, will just make the wheel hang in the air as the shock tops out, if you dont have enough droop but there is no weight on that wheel when it does so, so it doesnt 'effect" the vehicle ride as such.
Same as adding coil spacers wont chnage the ride, it just makes the car sit in a different orientation between bump stop and topped out, but it doesnt make the suspension work any differently otherwise.
ats4x4dotcom said:
Cannot agree on a lifted vehicle. The more you crank/lift the front the more you have to twist...actually over-twist the T-bar in order to bottom out (or fully stuff) the wheel.
I had the same T-bars with 2" lift and 33's as I do now at 2.75" lift and 35's. It takes MUCH more force now to stuff that wheel that last bit, again, because you have to twist the bar more than you do without the lift.
A 2" lifted IFS 100 will flex "easier/better" than the same setup cranked higher.
Oh, and to clarify. That's road tested.
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- #197
ats4x4dotcom said:
So what you are saying is the ride "feel" won't change if I raise the front of my vehicle via the torsion bars?
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bull said:So what you are saying is the ride "feel" won't change if I raise the front of my vehicle via the torsion bars?
Bull: You and I both are on the same page. While ATS says "no rate change" and he's correct, his words are just a bit misleading. I remember getting jumped on about misleading statements from forum members?
A T-Bar is progressive. The more you twist it, the harder it gets to twist. When you lower the lower arms to lift the vehicle you demand the bar to twist more than it's meant to in one direction before the bump stop stops it. That means at more of your upward travel range, especially the latter half, the spring-rate is higher than it should be and therefore the rate is stiffer and therefore your ride is stiffer also.
(And that more force is required to flex-out or stuff the front wheel off-road)
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ShottsUZJ100 said:Bull: You and I both are on the same page. While ATS says "no rate change" and he's correct, his statement's also misleading. I remember getting jumped on about misleading statements from forum members?
A T-Bar is progressive. The more you twist it, the harder it gets to twist. When you lower the lower arms to lift the vehicle you demand the bar to twist more than it's meant to before the bump stop stops it. That means at more of your upward travel range, especially the latter half, the spring-rate is higher than it should be and therefore the rate is stiffer and therefore your ride is stiffer also.
John, another example of you posting about something you obviously have no knowledge what so ever about. You should use your time on the net to research things a little better rather than blurt out misinformation.
The torsion bar is a set rate, it doesnt change, no matter how many turns you turn the adjuster, because the adjuster doesnt twist the bar further, it lifts the car instead, and unless your car some how gets heavier when you wind the adjuster, there is no extra force applied to the T bar.
A T bar is exactly the same as a coil spring, both go through torsional change to offer resistance, which is the spring rate, which is changed by changing the length or the thickness of the spring material, not by winding the adjuster.
The adjuster is no different to putting a spring spacer onto a coil spring, it simply changes the vehicle ride height, and position the vehicles suspension sits between the fixed bump stop, and extended bump stop IT DOES NOT CHANGE THE RATE OF THE TORSION BAR!!!!!!!!!!
The ONLY way you could have more trouble stuffing the last bit into your wheel arch would be if your car got lighter, as the suspension compressed, highly unlikely, because the t bar only moves the same amount of distance between bump stop and shocker topped out, at the same rate, because the thickness of the T bar, and the length didnt change, so the spring rate hasnt changed.
Go find something about suspension and read up before you reply, save another 14 explanations to you on this thread as well on how suspension works.
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- #200
ATS4X4dotcom I think there is a disconnect on this subject. The original question was how did it drive on pavement after the lift and bigger tires.
Original Question: "bull-- seriously, how does it drive on road with the lift and 315s?"
Not really sure how it got off topic I also think you and Shotts should screw in hopes to relieve all this sexual tension you have between eachother..
Original Question: "bull-- seriously, how does it drive on road with the lift and 315s?"
Not really sure how it got off topic I also think you and Shotts should screw in hopes to relieve all this sexual tension you have between eachother..
