Project 79.5

[swamprunner]

I do have a stock tank but I couldn't get it to fit and the 80 tank was in better shape. I know what you're asking and I think it would be possible to move it back a bit.

They brake pedal will bolt up but I'm not sure which way its suppose to bolt up(see above post).
The clutch pedal I have know idea how it bolts up. I'm using older pedals from a 70 series so I'm not sure if that is part of the problem.

 

[gifu]

Mine has/had space off the firewall.
The sleeves do NOT go through.

However, the 5th bolt (up to the dash support) did not line up. AND, the sleeves were such that the FJ60 booster's studs _barely_ made it through (read: the nuts had 1 turn).

I ended up grinding down the sleeves by about 50% to allow the FJ60 booster studs to make it through enough for a good lock washer and nut. I then extended/modified the a piece to meet up with dash where the 5th bolt is. HTH.

 

[swamprunner]

gotcha...i was thinking about drilling out holes in the firewall to allow the sleeves to pass thru and space the brake booster away from the fire wall b/c its hitting the lip right now.

Any ideas on the clutch pedal....did you're just bolt up like the brake pedal? If you look at the picture I posted of the firewall on the previous page which hole is the clutch master/pedal. The big round one?

 

[gifu]

Drilling the holes larger would be bad. It's the clamping action of the firewall gripped between the pedal bucket and booster that is sort of holding everything in place.

I will look closely at mine; my guess? The lip was modified for the booster.

I don't understand the issue on the clutch. Mine is bolted up... i did have the same issue with the vertical bolt (had to modify the pedal bucket to reach the 3rd hole), and the pedal itself was so far to the left, it was scraping the kickpanel (while also pinching the main electrical harness).

 

[swamprunner]

Just had a look under the truck for you...I take back what I said earlier...it would be really hard to move the stock tank back b/c it is cradled to the cab. The rear mounts are what cradles the tank and it looks like a nightmare to try and move those b/c the cradle is part of the body and the mounts bolt to that cradle. I think it would be alot easier to clearance the tank somehow...ie a hammer.

 

[swamprunner]

I have 4 brake boosters laying aroudn so hopefully one will bolt up without to much clearance. If the sleeves went thru the firewall I think it would still clamp but the clamping point would be on the back of the pedal bucket instead of the back of the booster. Right?

Maybe I'm just a complete idiot but the clutch pedal assembly I have does not want to bolt up anywhere. The I see where the top of the bucket goes but there is no hole in the firewall the make sense. Nor is there anywhere where for it to bolt up.

 

[MSGGrunt]

I look forward to seeing how you made the stock 80 series tank work as I have been trying to think this issue through on my build as well. Did you keep it in the stock 80's location with the stock orientation? I looked at the option of rotating the 80's tank 180 degrees so the filler hole is pointing towards the rear of the truck and more easily filled from the opposite side where the filler holes are located on the 79 series.

Please post plenty of detailed pics of the tank and how it is mounted so those of us following in your footsteps can learn and not repeat or make mistakes that you have already made and or figured out. Much appreciated. Great build. Lots of fun huh?

 

[gifu]

forgot to take picts of that master cylinder.
but saw in Yooper's thread you were looking for bumper ideas.
I built a very simple, low profile, bumper for mine. There is an odd gap between the mini sliders Proffitts installed and my bumer... so, I could dent right in that corner.

Not sure what the solution is; but i needed a bumper for Rubicon, and this did the trick.

 

[gifu]

oh, also... since my truck has 80 series axles, the rear was a bit wide. Those are trimmed down Heep TJ flares.

 

[swamprunner]

put a couple hours in this arvo. Working out the steering column and shaft situation. Not sure what the deal is but on the older 70 series column I am using the plate that bolts to the fire wall must be different than the newer 79 series. The bolt pattern is the same and it bolts up but it cocks the column to the passenger side an inch or better. Not sure what I'm gonna due to address this but I guess it involves manipulating that plate somehow. I have to make a custom shaft b/t the firewall and steering box...I have all the necessary parts but I have to fix the column first b/c the slightly cocked mounting is causing the shaft to come out at too much of an angle and its hitting the shock mount ever so slightly.

I need to take pictures of several things and post them up....will make sure that I get plenty of pics of the 80 tank for you msggrunt. Yours is going to be different than mine b/c you're not extending the frame. I don't know if I spun mine 180 degrees or not b/c I can't remember how it looked in the 80. The filler neck is in the rear. To me it looks like the way it was mounted in the 80 b/c the pass side of the tank is rounded to clearance the drive shaft.

 

[swamprunner]

gifu,
If you can take some pics of your firewall for me that would be awesome. Both sides would help. I want to see how your steering column and clutch look.
I worked out the brake situation...i'm using the 80 series booster and master. It has longer studs so I don't have to grind down the sleeves. I did have to grind the piss out of the lip on the firewall.

Its hard to see your bumper in that pic b/c of the shadow. I think I get the gist of it. I plan on doing something similar. Its hard to describe in words but the way I was going to address the corner situation is to have the rectangle tubing on the mini slider stick past the end of the bed and die into the bumper.

I'm using 80 axles also so mine are gonna stick by a bit. what tires are you running in that pic. I'm not sure if I can bring myself to put flares on mine...drilling into that brand new bed would make me cring.

post some more pics of if you have them...always good to have a visual to pirate ideas from.

 

[wongtsenhin]

Looks like Gifu had a SOA??

 

[gifu]

yup. SOA in rear, J springs with large steel spacers in front. frame and bed shortened about 14".
315/75/16 tires on stock 80 series steelies. 1HZ+T/H55F/Toybox/spitcase. ridonkulous 205:1 crawl ratio.

I'll shoot picts of the firewall, both sides, tonight.

 

[swamprunner]

thats ironic...14" that is the same amount I had to lengthen my frame.

using j spring up front on mine also...undecided on the rear.

look forward to the pics

 

[MSGGrunt]

Question on shortening the bed. I will be doing this on my 79/80 hybrid build. When shortening the bed did your drill out all the spot welds and shorted the bed that way or just cut out 14" from the middle of the bed and stitch weld it all back together. I want to remove the 13" from the front of the bed, but I see that the bed lip tapers down where it slides against the headboard. How will this work if I cut off and do away with this tapered section?

In the picture the sheet metal tapers/thins along the red line to slide under the front portion of the bed. With my current plan this tapered/thin section would be eliminated. I really don't want to just cut out a section in the middle of the bed and stitch weld it back together like in the second and third pic. Please help from those who have gone down this road already.

 

[swamprunner]

Here's some bad pics of the tank for you msggrunt. Its hard to get the to pics to come out shooting under the truck. I used one of the crossmembers of the bed to snug the tank up in the rear. In the front I used the existing tank mounts on the cab and fabbed up so bracktetry that I'm not that proud of but it works..(ie stuff I had laying around the shop and didn't have to drive 1.5 hrs to the steel supplier).

 

[swamprunner]

one of those days today. Would have been cheaper/wiser to stay in bed and forget the day happened. Probably drove 200 miles in search of different things and came up nill. Took a few pics though. First two pics are of the over priced adapters from phoneix casting. For that much money you think everything would be an exact fit with no drilling/tapping or cutting/welding required.

Last pic is just the cummins out of the truck.

 

[wongtsenhin]

I want to remove the 13" from the front of the bed, but I see that the bed lip tapers down where it slides against the headboard. How will this work if I cut off and do away with this tapered section?

I'm keen to know it as well, anybody can do the tapering work on the section??

 

[swamprunner]

I will look at my bed today to get a better understanding of what you're talking about.

Here's a pic of my oil pan clearance. I think it should be enough...I won't be able to really tell until I test run the truck and can cycle the suspension proper.

I can't remember how close the 1fz was to the diff flange. Msgrunt can you chime in an let me know how close your oil pan is to your diff flange?

If need be I will have to clearance the pan or a add bit more lift. Its currently sitting on j springs.

 

[swamprunner]

somebody with an 80 want to chime in on oil pan clearance. Ordered a bunch of parts over the holidays so hopefully I have most of the pieces of the puzzle now. Hopefully I should be able to test drive this thing in a week or so