Project 1/2" Flat Belly

[95ToyCruiser]

One of the biggest drawbacks to a modded (lift, tires, bumpers, sliders, the usual) FJ80 in my opinion would have to be the belly. Although it is fairly flat from the factory, the transfercase still hangs down a fair bit, and is not all that protected.

I've always loved flat bellys, and figured, what the hell, I'll give it a try... Couldn't have done it without the help of my friend/business partner Zach. Enjoy

Stripped out, getting ready to cut it up...




Floor cut up to allow the trans/tcase to be moved up...




Mocking up the 1/2" piece of plate steel (I think it'll be strong enough


Next on the agenda is to mod the gas tank, trim the floor crossmember that the rear output shaft is contacting, and weld the floor back together....

 

[mr jits]

I'm liking this idea a lot, but how much does the TC intrude into the cabin when you're doing this? Also, are you going to include drain holes in the plate to keep maintenance simple?

 

[mr jits]

Also, how much is this changing your drive shaft angle to the rear?

 

[kidglove13]

you are leaving alot of details out
What are you doing about the cross member?
How are you re-mounting everything?

Why dont you just do a 2 inch body lift and raise the drive train, much easier

Its different

Seems like an awful lot of work for that

 

[Rwhat]

you are leaving alot of details out
What are you doing about the cross member?
How are you re-mounting everything?

Why dont you just do a 2 inch body lift and raise the drive train, much easier

Its different

Seems like an awful lot of work for that

What ^ said. Why not do a BL and a drive train lift?

1/2" steel plate is freaking heavy. Why not go 5/16"and use some UHMW?

What are you doing with the fan shroud and other parts?

 

[kmcoop7]

I planned to do the same thing, but the easy way.

Weld some angle on to the inside of the frame with captured nuts on the horizontal surface. I then plan to bolt a 3/16" steel plate to them bewteen the rear lca mounts and the cross member. It will probably only take me a few hours and cost about $100. Also easy to remove and clean out all the crap that accumulates on these.

Just my two cents, what you are doing is definately cooler than what I have planned.

 

[rove_mcanus]

The only advantage I can see here is ground clearance. The transfer doesn't hang all that low compared to an older hilux/tacoma

You could build a substantial skid plate that wouldn't compromise ground clearance that much. I'm sure somebody has already done it.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

The driveline angles are not too bad...I had to raise the tunnel about 3" in the tallest spot (see below). I initially was going to do a traditional crossmember/skid, but went to the steel yard and they had this plate (see below) it was leftover from a bridge project, got it and a 6' piece of 3x3 angle for $50, so I said screw it...

The plate already has about 20 1" holes, which is good for drainage, as mentioned above...

I had to relocate the fuel lines up about 3", which was done by cutting the floor, I also had to mod the gas tank and front strap...

I don't like body lifts at all, would rather do it "the hard way" than do a body lift...

The fan shroud? Not following...

As for mounting, I used 2x2 square welded to the stock mount, then attached to the plate (see below)...

 

[Rwhat]

More power too you. I think if you post pics after its done it will probably grow on us. That's the thing about heeps is that they can easly get rid of their beer bellies.

The question about the fan shroud, was I thought you were liftIng the engine also to keep the drive train angles stock.

 

[kidglove13]

eventhough that is 1/2 inch plate if you come down on the center of that plate with some force it will flex up

Just having the stock mount like that with no reinforcement between that and the frame could be a problem if it takes a good hit and could put a good amount of stress on the tcase where it mounts to the tranny

At one point I had some 1/2 plate that I made a skid with to just cover the tcase that ran frme to frame and I can down hard on it once and it bent, I have since removed that plate.

What I am saying is that I would think of a way to gusset or brace the whole area where the mount is from the frame to the mount so that the frame takes the stress, 1/2 plate with no support across that span will flex and or possible bend

Just my 2 cents

 

[The Jade Bean]

This is a cool idea but seems like crazy amounts of work, I'm glad your doing it so I can just watch. I'm assuming none of the interior mods are getting in the way of mounting the seats back and a guess you'll be fabbing up a new center console area.

-Daniel

Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Thanks for the replies, I will most likely extend the 2x2 pieces that the mount is welded to all the way to the frame rails, to add a bit more rigidity...

Well besides possibly doing that, the underside is done...

All that's left to do is finish stitching my floor together and reinstall the interior...

I made everything so that the seats, shifters, and console will mount to the stock locations (only higher) the only thing I will have to trim is the front console cover (just below the ash tray).

The "finished" underside...Enjoy

 

[93yotasr5]

wow nice work man

 

[jynx]

This is pretty sweet. I especially like the repurposing of the old bridge gusset plate. Did the dimensions work rail to rail? If so that is really cool.

I am kind of curious to those who mention the need for extra gussets from the mount. How thick are the cross-members from folks like Iron Pig and others? Aren't they thinner than this? While the gussets will make it stronger, and with all the holes it would be more prone to cracking from hole to hole, but overall thickness should be fine I would think.

Also, you mention the seat mounts were relocated slightly higher, did you raise the outsides or modify the seat frame to accommodate the high inside mounting position?

I dig it.

Edit: just confirmed Iron Pig is 3/8" flat plate cross-member with integrated skids for the t-case and trans and from pictures on the web site I didn't see any gussets, but I have not seen one in person so I might be missing them.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Thanks man! Just got her back on the road, I'm most definitely going to need dc driveshafts front and rear, so I'll be running with no front till then...going to rausch creek next weekend, so I guess I'll see how it holds up...

Actually, the piece was already cut pretty much perfectly, all I had to do was notch it for the radius arm mounts and my slider/cat mount...

The seats stayed in the factory position, the center console and everything was raised between 2" and 5". Everything mounts with factory mounts.

All in all I'd say I have about $120 and about 40 hours in the last 3 days (slept 6 hours total in the last 2 nights). But its my dd, so had to get it going for Monday

Here's a pic of the inside before I covered it with carpet, and the skid when it was done, I'll post up more of the finished interior and better underbelly shots tomorrow, now I'm gonna get some rest...

 

[95ToyCruiser]

So here's the finished product....




Here's a shot showing the interior and how high the center console is....



Showing the same from the rear....



The pass seat brackets...



Clearance between seat and tunnel (where raised)....



All in all I'd say it was successful, A LOT MORE WORK THAN I THOUGHT! But got it done in 3 days (working nearly nonstop) I still have to throw in the back seats, and trim and install the front console piece...

Thanks for the replies, I'll post up final interior pics when It's 100% done...

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Well, finally finished the interior, didn't turn out 1/2 bad, the carpet was a bit short in some spots, had to lengthen some wires, trim the center console, and mod my shifter, but other than that, it all mounts in the stock location, all be it a bit higher...

 

[busmup808]

The center console looks higher. It must be more comfortable. Looks sick. Good job.

Sent from my hawn finga using IH8MUD

 

[93Chewbacca]

Good work. Looks like that was fun

 

[wspastorbryan]

Good job man. You sure work faster than I do.