Progressive Action on Carb (1 Viewer)

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Callahan Offroad

On-Road and Off-Road Racing Enthusist
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Dec 23, 2010
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Location
Saint Louis Missouri
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www.callahanoffroadandimports
Mine is broken, at the spring i believe. Trying to come up with a good "in the field fix". Looks like I have two options with it, leave it open or leave it closed. Anyone have any thoughts and or experience with this situation?

Just opened my venue two weeks ago so all my money is locked up for a little bit, eventually i'll just get a new carb or get it completely rebuilt.


UPDATE: just figured i'd let everyone know that by this point we've figured out that the problem is not the progressive action but the choke. Its becoming very obvious that i know nothing about carbs.
 
Last edited:
if u get a new carb get a trollhole.
 
Bump again for any input.

Currently have both barrels open, suspect this is the reason my truck will not idle when "cold" (its 95* outside)
 
The toyota parts diagram does not show any break down on the secondary throttle shaft, so I assume the separate spring is not available.

If you want to force it one way or another, then force the secondary closed. you will lose top end power, but the truck will idle and drive. People drive their trucks with broken secondary diaphragms.

You could maybe contact Jim C or Mark A or cruiserparts.net to see if they have a core or flange (what the bottom section is called) for sale.
 
Are you SURE you are not just missing the return spring? The one for the primary is horizontal, and mounts on the backside of the carburetor, between the bellcrank of the carb and the bracket that anchors the pedal linkage at the carb. The secondary spring mounts vertically between the tab that sticks out of the throttle positioner and the swing arm that makes contact with the secondary linkage on the backside of the carb.

Hth

Mark A.
 
good call Mark. The return spring is the vertical spring that is kind of in the center of this pic from SOR. that spring should be available from toyota p/n 21756-61010
carb2.jpg
 
The round spring towards the top center (in the photo) is the broken peice. The top bar that unifies the rotating spring is broken as well. I have everything else.
 
figured i'd let everyone know what I ended up doing about this.
I left the 2nd barrel open, and tuned the idle fuel and idle to compensate for the 2nd barrel being open all the time. Idles right at about 1000 with no start up or warm-up problems. I think i could get the idle lower if i fixed the pcv line leaks.
 
You are talking about a spring in the choke mechanism. As long as the accelpump is working well, it should be able to start without the choke. The choke blade should definitely be wired in the open position.
 
You'll need to get the choke spring(s) and the arm that is busted, from a scrap carb.

Post a few pics of the carb, starting w/ engine bay and zooming in on the choke mechanism, so we can see what's broken/bent/disconnected/missing.
 
alright here are some pics from when i desmogged the rig. choke cable is disconnected because the choke puller broke in the cabin. Notice the broken spring and metal peice.
043011200016.jpg
043011200037.jpg
 
would it be more prudent to purchase a refurbished/rebuilt carb or rebuild these systems on the existing carb?
 
cool cool thanks jim!
From what i can tell it is the original carb. When is a good indicator that it is time to rebuild a carb?
 
FJ40Jim said:
If the carb that is on the truck is original/correct, then I recommend fixing it.
A sweatshop rebuild from Vatozone is always made up of junk from multiple carbs and missing parts.

What carb rebuild kit would you recommend?
 

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