Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC (1 Viewer)

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In my research to figure out how to program keys to my LC I have compiled the following steps for all model year 100 series. I am posting this so that all steps for all models can be found in one list. Please note there are other variations that may work fine, but the below seem to work every time from posts I have read. Hope it helps. The below information applies to the 4C and 4D transponder keys. The 4C is 1998-2002 also referred to as the “sequence E” programming steps; all steps below work for programming that key. The 4D chip is for 2003+ 100 series, also referred to as “sequence I” programming steps; many steps below will work for all 03+, however the ECU can not be programmed for 03-04 start capability without a computer per FSM (05+ should program with these steps from what I have read).


As a new 100 owner, the information on MuD is just a amazing!

I was nervous because I bought the truck with only one key.. Now I know I can flush any other keys out there and even buy a couple of new ones. It occurred to me while reading these very detail instructions that some of this feel like you're doing the hokey-pokey dance!
 
Just went through the process of ordering a new OEM key from American in NM (great service, shipping and prices!) and used Topguide's "manual" to program my key. First, I have a 2000 LC and was programming a new master key. I have two comments:

1) Using "Program New Key (sequence E) worked flawlessly on the first attempt.

2) Using "Program Remote (Sequence E)" I failed on 3 attempts using the door lock switch but when I switched to a manual toggling of the lock button I was successful on the first attempt.

Thanks Mud, great info to be found here!
 
Well, I bit the bullet and bought a new "sub key" (aka valet) from the local dealer, as the new-to-me LC came with only one key -- a remote key which unlocked and started the vehicle. Assuming I had a master from reading this thread, I proceeded to try program it myself prior to having it cut. And i tried and tried and tried to program it using these and a few more techniques around the interwebs.

After many attempts which seemed like 50 or more, trying every speed and combo, it just wouldn't program. So I tried again this morning. Nothing. So reading again, I was starting to suspect that this key wasn't really a master since the Security light went out quickly, but not immediately. Turns out when it says 1 to 3 seconds indicates a valet, even that light for one second means it's not Master.

So with this suspicion, I headed up to the Toyota dealer and ask them to take a look at it. They took one look at the remote key I had and said "no problem"and for 50 bucks they would dump the existing key registry in the ECM and program the new sub-key using the computer and not the hokey-pokey dance. Well after about 15 minutes the tech came back and said "PROBLEM, this remote key is not a master". This is why I could not seem to get the new key to program as my existing key was not in fact a master!!

So now I am in the ECM replacement category along with a few others in this thread. I'm starting to think this is a pretty big issue for Land Cruiser buyers and probably should be added to the newbie FAQ on this forum and probably also on Slee's pre-purchase checklist page.

Now given the fact that I'm a MUD member, I wasn't exactly naïve about this situation. So I educated the tech on the Toyota service bulletin and he reluctantly agreed that I could plead my case with Toyota and get the ECM replaced. Of course I have to buy a couple keys of which that subkey (I guess) will count -- we'll see! (He didn't really offer this information up freely when the problem occurred but rather after I mentioned the TSB, he seemed to know about the program). When asked jow this remote key could possibly a sub key, he attributed this to some "funny business".

I'll plead my case with the Toyota Hotline tomorrow and update the thread.

Once again big kudos to the Toyota tech forum and MUD in general. I'll be buying star soon, because as a new LC owner this place has already saved me a bunch of money -- well worth supporting the group!
 
I'll plead my case with the Toyota Hotline tomorrow and update the thread.

Talked to Toyota Hotline who took all of my information and then told me there was a new process on this and that the dealer can handle it directly. Hotline doesn't need to approve it. I explained that the dealer didn't seem to even know about the TSB and she called the Service Manager and explained the new process while I was on hold. The service manager then called and updated me saying it would be about a week to get the ECM in and I'd have to pay labor and two keys. Since I already bought one new sub key, I only have to buy one Master Remote.

All in all, very seamless process... Will update after the ECM is replaced.
 
... Will update after the ECM is replaced.

New ECM module arrived, and installed. They programmed my old remote as a master and added the new sub-key. I had to buy a new OEM Remote as a part of the condition to have Toyota pay for the ECM. The key plus labor was $450 out the door.

A bit pricey, and certainly not something I preferred to spend money on, when I'd rather it go to mods! Of the $450, close to $300 was the one remote key! It is now in my safe where it won't be seen again for awhile! But now I have two masters and can add the next key myself.

Fred Anderson Toyota in Raleigh was the dealer I worked with and they were really nice to work with.

I'll reach out to Christo Slee to add this to the newbie FAQ and something to watch for on a pre-buy inspection. Had I known this, I would have offered $500 less on the vehicle!
 
System schematics

Wow! What a pile of BS. Electronic remote/transponder/duhicky thimabobs. A buddy of mine lost his 2003 LC keys and we are now going thru this crap; secruity my ass. Altho the thread is super important; has anyone considered looking into a go-around fix. Maybe a wiring mod that will allow the ECM to operate the ignition.
I don't have schematics for the newer LC's (ie., yr 2003 etc), so I don't know how things are wired. For example, do the newer LC's use a module called "ignitor"? Are the spark plugs really 'spark plugs'? Are they fired from a pulse modulator system or mechanical distributor system?

We have lots of really smart people here on MUD. Lets get to work on a method to go around the Xponder and just use a key, like in my '94.
 
Wow! What a pile of BS. Electronic remote/transponder/duhicky thimabobs.

Yea, I think toyota knows this was a flawed designs which is why they offer the ECM replacement even out of warranty. Of all the things they got right on the 100, this isn't one of them. The dealer was really good on this, but the price of that one key was pretty galling!
 
A couple of nights ago wifey and I went to Target for some stuff. When we came out the cruiser wouldn't start- no reaction from the key, it literally freewheeled, no resistance at all. After seom consternation, I called Locksmith Charley (had just read these posts that afternoon! Timing is everything). He came out (for $100, it was after 9:00 on Wednesday night, lucky I live in Phoenix) and disassembled the lock. Turns out the shaft which runs through the lock to the electrical switch had broken. It was hard to get the switch off of the column since the theft-proof bolts had no heads (they are designed to break off when installed). Charley knew exactly what to do. Took 11/2 hours or so but I was soon on my way (wifey went home with friends). Called Dan the enxt day and ordered a new switch with new bolts (part #45280-60460 @ $146.86 and two bolts 45897-12020 @ $2.71 each. Two day shipping @ $14.21). Installed it myself, actually two or three times until I got the sequence right (don't break the heads off the bolts until you're sure it's right!!), and off we go! Charley was great, I highly recommend him.
Bad news was I discovered that we have two valet keys, and no master. Looks like that's the next hurdle. Bastard PO's.
Ned
 
Foldable Key

Hi,
Just to let you know I ordered foldable keys on ebay

$T2eC16d,!yEE9s5jGKoOBRJuTYk33Q~~60_35.JPG


First, the grooves on the blabe don't have the same shape (V and not U)... not a big issue but if the locksmith does not pay attention, the key will not work because the keys not being old the same way, the copy is not identical. (I did complain to the seller and received 2 new blades for this key)(because the copy will not be identical, the keys not being old the same way)
Then, the remote ios too far from the dashboard... the engine don't start!
I will go again to the locksmith and ask to cut it as short as possible, but in the mean time, don't buy this fancy key
(by the way, folded, they are almost as big as a oem key, the only advantage would be not to have a blade)
 
I had one of my two mater key desintergrate when turning on the ignition soon after we purchased out '03. Got two keys from eBay that reads denson1512v clbt/c/245/2009. Followed the 2003+ sequence EXCEPT I didn't pull the key out after the 2 minute ON time. Opened and closed the door and cycled the brake, and now it works as the master per security blinks light indication. Starts the car. However I couldn't get the second spare to program after three attempts. Likely maxed out num master key. Will leave that endeavor until down to one master key again. BTW the keys were cut at the local Ace hardware.
 
Awesome thread. I just purchased a 1999 UJZ lucky me I had two "master keys" however they had been glued back together. I went to the local dealer purchased two "transponder keys" for $225.00. I used the programming directions in this thread. Beginners luck, but I was able to get both keys programmed on the first try. I now have to go get the keys cut and program the remote entry buttons.
 
Hello. New to the forum. I just purchased a 2004 Land Cruiser and there was only one key that came with the vehicle. This key is the one with the remote buttons built in (as opposed to a separate key fob). I purchased an uncut transponder key with the remote built in on ebay and had the key cut. I'm templeted to try Locksmith Charley's recommendations for programming but his website has a contradiction. His website says that on/after 2002 no on board programming is available for the Land Cruiser. He also has instructions for programming a transponder key for a 2002+ Land Cruiser.



There is a posting on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/all_comments?v=C88KA2df9yQ) that gives the following instructions for programming a 1998-2006 Land Cruiser Key.
1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked.

2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds. A. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out. B. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.

3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Close then open the drivers door. B. Close then open the drivers door. C. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Close then open the drivers door. B. Close then open the drivers door. C. Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition. D. Close the drivers door. E. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF. F. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remtoe simutaneously for 1.5 seconds. B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted. C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Open drivers door.


Does anyone know how to safely avoid the $80 dealer cost to program the key? Also, once I get the key programmed, will the remote buttons on the key work? I'm fearful that if I try to program the key and get it wrong, the master key will no longer work.

Thanks in advance for responses!
 
Bad day today: last key lost

Of course I know it is really my fault that I didn't go ahead and had an extra key made. But it's too late now. Today at lunch my one and only key to my 98LC disappeared (don't know if somebody swiped it on purpose or someone took it by mistake. Result is my car is still parked in front of the restaurant.
I have a blank metal key which I used to open the car and remove the battery ( in case somebody is actually trying to steal the car), otherwise the key does not start the car (starter turns over but engine won't run, no chip in the key...)
So what do I do? I live in Nicaragua and I have a feeling that the local dealership has never heard of any service bulletin regarding free ECU replacements. Aside from that the next dealer is about 120 miles away.
I am a bit lost at this point about what to do. Is there no way to override the system, so I can drive the car and finally buy another key?
Help ....
 
Dragon, you're up a creek buddy. I would get it towed to a safer spot until you can get a new key/ECU.

Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
 
I tried these steps and several others in an attempt to program a new key for my '04. The only way I could get it done was by taking it to the dealer.


Hello. New to the forum. I just purchased a 2004 Land Cruiser and there was only one key that came with the vehicle. This key is the one with the remote buttons built in (as opposed to a separate key fob). I purchased an uncut transponder key with the remote built in on ebay and had the key cut. I'm templeted to try Locksmith Charley's recommendations for programming but his website has a contradiction. His website says that on/after 2002 no on board programming is available for the Land Cruiser. He also has instructions for programming a transponder key for a 2002+ Land Cruiser.



There is a posting on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/all_comments?v=C88KA2df9yQ) that gives the following instructions for programming a 1998-2006 Land Cruiser Key.
1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked.

2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds. A. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out. B. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.

3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Close then open the drivers door. B. Close then open the drivers door. C. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Close then open the drivers door. B. Close then open the drivers door. C. Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition. D. Close the drivers door. E. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF. F. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remtoe simutaneously for 1.5 seconds. B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted. C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Open drivers door.


Does anyone know how to safely avoid the $80 dealer cost to program the key? Also, once I get the key programmed, will the remote buttons on the key work? I'm fearful that if I try to program the key and get it wrong, the master key will no longer work.

Thanks in advance for responses!
 
I tried these steps and several others in an attempt to program a new key for my '04. The only way I could get it done was by taking it to the dealer.

The 03-04 years have to have a tool to program the keys... i.e. no onboard programming for these years, pretty sure this was corrected in 05 & later. In 03 the chip in the key was changed for better security, and for some reason the onboard programming was dumped (confirmed by Toyota key programing fsm) I found this out through lots of research trying to program my 03... and Somewhere in this thread I posted info for the most detailed programming I found.
 
Dragon, you're up a creek buddy. I would get it towed to a safer spot until you can get a new key/ECU.

Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.

Ended up taking out the ECU and send it with one of the working keys (no-chip) to my mechanic and he flashed the ECU and installed three new keys (one is already in the safe). Cost me around $500.
Of course today my orginal key was returned by a lady that "found" it - after I has asked her last week if she had taken it by mistake....
 
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That's gotta suck.

Oh yes, the big one ... unfortunately telling lies is somewhat of a national sport down here.... well water under the bridge.
Treated myself to a little compensation :)



Great truck, indestructible, but definitely makes you appreciate the comfort of a 100 series ... :)
 

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