Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC (1 Viewer)

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In my research to figure out how to program keys to my LC I have compiled the following steps for all model year 100 series. I am posting this so that all steps for all models can be found in one list. Please note there are other variations that may work fine, but the below seem to work every time from posts I have read. Hope it helps.
The below information applies to the 4C and 4D transponder keys. The 4C is 1998-2002 also referred to as the “sequence E” programming steps; all steps below work for programming that key. The 4D chip is for 2003+ 100 series, also referred to as “sequence I” programming steps; many steps below will work for all 03+, however the ECU can not be programmed for 03-04 start capability without a computer per FSM (05+ should program with these steps from what I have read).

Also, please note that timing is critical, you must be spot on. If a sequence fails try again making sure the timing is exact. If you are still unable to program the new key into the ECU you may have too many keys programmed; there can be up to 5 master keys and 3 valet keys (per 03-04 FSM). If unsure you can clear all but one master key and program/reprogram any existing keys.

Tell what key you have:
To determine if the key(s) have been properly programmed into the ECM you may utilize the following procedure:

  1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.
  2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur:

  • Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
  • Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
  • Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key
***FOR ALL PROCEDURES BELOW make sure you start with the following steps unless otherwise stated:

  1. All windows are up
  2. All doors are shut and locked except for the drivers door which should be unlocked

Delete all but one master key:
To delete all but one key from the unit (ECM):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert an existing master key into the ignition cylinder. Do not turn the key from the OFF (LOCK) position.
  3. Within fifteen seconds of inserting the key, depress and release the accelerator pedal six times.
  4. Within twenty seconds of completing the above step, depress and release the brake pedal seven times.
  5. The security light will flash, indicating all keys other than the one being used have been deleted.
  6. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.

***Alternative method possibly for sequence I vehicles (2003+)

  1. Insert Master Key and Cycle ignition 6 times (Lock to on then back to lock)
  2. Within 35 seconds open and close Drivers side door 7 (seven) times.
  3. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.

Program new key (sequence E):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
  3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
  4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.
  5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
  6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
  7. After 80 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
  8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Program new key (sequence I – 2003+):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
  3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
  4. Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key.
  5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
  6. Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes.
  7. Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key
  8. Open and close the “driver side” door 1 (one) time.
  9. After 60 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
  10. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Erase Remote Procedure (years this works on unknown):

  1. Make sure no keys are in the ignition lock and the drivers door is open and unlocked.
  2. Put the key in the ignition and remove it.
  3. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times.
  4. Close the drivers door and open it.
  5. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times.
  6. Put the key in the ignition.
  7. Turn ignition ON for 1 second and then off for 1 second then on for 1 second and remove key.
  8. The power door locks should cycle 2 times.
  9. Press the lock and unlock button for 2 seconds, then press the unlock for 1 second.
  10. If the remote is programmed the doors will cycle once. If failed the doors will cycle 2 times.
  11. Open drivers door to end procedure.

Program Remote: (sequence E)
1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and driver’s door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
  • Close, then open drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
  • Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
  • Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
  • Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
  • Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Close drivers door.
Program Remote: (sequence I – 2003+)
1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.
2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds.

  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition.
  • Close the drivers door.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
  • Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically
indicating successful entry into programming mode.
Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.
  • Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted.
  • Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Open drivers door.

 
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Wow..Thanks for posting very well detailed report...I still have a key that I bought and could not programme. Will try again according to your timings.
 
Thanks TXLX470. Your post reminded me to add information that only 5 master and 3 sub keys are allowed. So if someone has gone through a lot of keys that could be an issue, which of course is resolved by deleting all buy one master key.

Also I seem to have misplaced the information on how to program a sub (valet) key. So that did not make it in the write up. If I find those instructions I will add them.

Good luck.
 
Hi Topoguide,

Thanks for putting this together, as I've also just purchased a used '99 LC and it only came with one key and I'll have to program some more.

I do have one question that I need your help on. The one key that came with my '99 LC is black with 3 remote buttons (buttons for lock, unlock, and panic) and the key works on the glove compartment. When I insert the key into the ignition, the security light stays on for 1-3 seconds before it goes off. According to your post, this is a "valet" key. Can this key be used to program additional keys even though it's not a "master" or am i out of luck?

Thanks!
 
Hi Calskibum, unfortunately I believe you are out of luck. All of my information (including what my truck does) if it continues to blink for 1-3 seconds it is a valet key and will not program other keys. :frown:

You can always try. Assuming you will not be able to program new keys you have a couple of options. One is the ECU can be replaced the other is to have the ECU flashed. My understanding is that you can get Toyota to pick up the tab on one free ECU (only one per truck for its life), you would pay for labor; IMO this is not the best option, and it is only hear say on my part. The option of finding a reputable locksmith that can flash the ECU and program your new keys should be cheaper and IMO the better option.

If you do not have a locksmith that can do it locally check out Locksmith Charley in Phoenix. You can ship your ECU to him, he will flash it and send it back quickly. His site is here. Also, the key you have currently can be programmed as a master when you do this as it is the ECU that determines what the key is recognized as.

But best of luck.
 
I tried again..was able to delete all the previous keys but was not able to program the new key. I guess I am trying to program a key which is not 98(got from ebay)...My original master key fob(inside the shell) has 60010 on top and 07E15 on the bottom. And on the one I am trying to program has 60140 on the top and 01G08 on the bottem...agrrrrrrrr

If any body needs a matching FOB..it's yours
 
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I tried again..was able to delete all the previous keys but was not able to program the new key. I guess I am trying to program a key which is not 98(got from ebay)...My original master key fob (inside the shell) has 60010 on top and 07E15 on the bottom. And on the one I am trying to program has 60140 on the top and 01G08 on the bottom...agrrrrrrrr

I'm in the same situation. My original remote fob (inside guts) has no markings except the large "H". But the remote I bought off ebay (which appears identical and well made) has 60140 on top and 03F30 on the bottom. It also has the "H" and a white painted/printed circle on it. I have not been able to enter it as a master key.

I know I am doing the procedure correctly because I was able to erase all the keys and reload my Valet (actually a master).

I know the car "detects" the new remote's signals because during the remote programming process the vehicle responds to it. It just doesn't accept it. At step 6 of "Program Remote: (sequence E)" above it gives me two lock cycles. Topoguide's instructions indicate that this is a fail but does anyone know exactly what it means ?

If others could indicate which remote code numbers are compatible with each other that would be great and could help us make a match and deal with vendors. It will be easy to check when you are changing your battery and putting a little purple loctite on the screw for your Thanksgiving key tune up. ;)
 
Hi gang, I'm a new guy to the forum. What a long running thread- it has been very informative.

I have a remote-key combo that was working to start the car, then became intermittent, and then stopped starting the car altogether.

I just bought this 2001 LC. The previous owner lost the screw that holds the remote cover shell halves together. I tried replacing the screw but wound up cross threading a mis-matched screw into the hole. I didn't like that so I put a tie-wrap around the slot where the key ring goes to hold the halves together.

Does anyone know where the transponder is on the remote-key? Is it part of the key-shell housing or is it built into the FOB remote? Has anyone ever seen a transponder go intermittent and then quit like that?

Right about that time I programmed a non-remote key into the accepted key group.

Thanks, this forum is a great resource.
J-
 
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Transponder is built into the FOB remote, not in the shell.
 
Thanks hoser. Is that unusual? Has anyone else had this problem?

I'll open it up and see what I can see, but I don't know what I can do about it. I was thinking about cutting off the key part and using it as a keyless remote.

In the end I'd like 2 remotes and 3 master keys so all I need to do now is get 1 more keyless remote and 1 more transponder key. Did I see in a previous post that a 2001 Camry keyless remote would work for my vehicle? That's be cool.
 
Bought a 100 recently and all it had was a valet key and a pile of pieces that used to be remote key, fortunately it was all there. Following the info here, I found that the valet was not a master, so I was a little nervous that I didn't have a master key.

I bought one of these.

98-07 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER REMOTE KEY REPLACEMENT SHELL : eBay Motors (item 120515421183 end time Jan-11-10 00:37:16 PST)

I put the old parts in the new housing, had it cut for $3 and it worked! So I have a master! I then used the procedure here and on charlie's site to make my valet a master key. I will eventually get a third key, but for now I'm covered, thanks to the great info on this site.
 
The 2003 and newer LX470, GX470 and Land Cruiser should all have the number 60140 printed on the top of the guts of the key fob (they are on the 4D system). From what I have learned, the second set of numbers/letters on the bottom of the fob are a batch number or something similar and are not a part number, only the 60140 matters. Has anyone successfully programmed an additional key to a 2003+ truck without going through a dealer or locksmith?
 
Hey guys, I've read through the info on the keys and just got a new remote key. However, I cannot seem to have success in programing the new key. I follow all the directions given in this thread but no luck. It will not turn the security light off after the procedure as described, the light just keeps blinking.
I thought maybe I had the maximum number of keys programmed so I followed the steps to erase all but the master as per the instructions but I never get the last confirmation flash of the security light. Im thinking there is something I am missing.

I have a 99 that I just bought, the original key with remote built in does turn the security light off immediatly when I put it in the ignition so it should be the master.

I got a remote key on ebay that has clbt/C/245/2002 on it and Denso 1512v my original has hyq1512v rss210 Denso and something canada 1531 102 539 Its hard for me to read the numbers they are so small. The key description said it would work 98-2002 and he asked me to make sure mine had hyq1512v on it. Do I have the wrong key?

At a loss here. Should I wait a certain amount of time between the gas pedal and brake pedal pushes, is it quick or slow etc? If it doesnt take should I open the door and close it and start over or do I need to do something to clear my last attempt?

Thanks for any help!
 
Try doing it slowly, with full presses of the brake and throttle. I couldn't get it to work either at first, but after I slowed things down, it worked. Also, try to see if waiting a little bit longer works. I sat there wondering why it didn't work, got on my laptop to look up some stuff, looked back and realized it had worked. After you have done everything, you may have to wait a little longer than you think is correct. 30 seconds feels like a lifetime when you're sitting in a car alone staring at a small blinking car
 
30 seconds feels like a lifetime when you're sitting in a car alone staring at a small blinking car

That is so true, same thing happened to me... Also, I used the directions from Charlie's site. Easy to follow.
 
Ok I finally got the procedure to erase all other keys to respond as written by doing things quicker than previously. However I still cannot get the new key to program. I get to the part where I put it in and press the gas pedal and it stops blinking right away but then 2-3 seconds it starts and I waited 3 minutes and it just kept blinking.

I tried again to complete the process by after putting the new key in, pressing the gas and taking it out while it had stopped blinking for 2-3 seconds and then pressing the brake for the last time and that doesn't work either. Maybe I got the wrong key or got ripped off on ebay? What a headache this is. If I ever get a new key to work I am putting the master in the safe.

Any other tips would be cherished!
 
Alright guys, I just got a regular transponder key without remote and was able to successfully add it to the ecu. HOWEVER........I used a sequence the locksmith gave me from his computer which is different from what is posted here. I have a 99,

Add a duplicate key-
1. Insert an existing master key into the ignition cylinder. Do not turn the key from the off (lock) position.
2. Within 15 seconds of inserting the key, depress and release the accelerator pedal 4 times.
3. Within 20 seconds of completing the above step, depress and release the brake pedal 5 times and then remove the original key from the ignition.
4. Within 10 seconds, insert the new key into the ignition. Do not turn the key from the Off (lock) position.
5. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
6. After 80 seconds the new key has been learned by the vehicles on-board computer and the Security light will go off. Remove the new key and depress and release the brake pedal 1 time.

So this is what worked for one of my keys. The other one with the built in remote will not program with any method I've tried so far.

Any other suggestions welcomed. I think I might have a bad or wrong key although the seller assures me it is correct.
Thanks hopefully this can help someone else out.
 
How to swap transponder chips from key to key.

Ok, The remote key I ordered would not program to be able to start the truck (its transponder was useless), but I could get the remote to program to remotely lock and unlock the doors. So I was going to just buy another plain key with a transponder in it from ebay for $12.99 +free shipping. Then I was going to just cut the key off the remote base and use the remote part like a seperate remote with the plain key. (like most cars that don't have the key/remote integrated)

Then I started thinking that I would didnt want all that extra stuff on my key chain. I had a hunch and it worked. Turned out to be a one :banana:job.

I cut open the rubber case on the plain key, took the transponder that worked out, and put it in the key with the remote after I removed the cover to expose the battery and transponder which I pried out gently. I glued the rubber case back on the plain key and will use it as a hide a key to get into the car manually, and then hide my next $12.99 key in the car.

P1010229.jpg


Look at the top left part above where the battery is and you can see the slot the transponder chip goes in.
P1010228.jpg


I still came out alright because the seller of the remote key refunded me half the cost which was more than enough to by a second plain key.

Maybe this can help someone if they get sent the wrong key like I did then you can basically buy a $12.99 key for the transponder in it and get your remote key to work.:clap:
 

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