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LAgallegos

LAgallegos

10 Year
Joined
May 14, 2014
Threads
13
Messages
193
Location
Spokane, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
I took the truck on her first big journey all the way up to Maryland this past weekend. She handled great and made it there and back with only one pit stop to clean out the carb. (even got to have some fun in the snow:D)

Being home now, I haven't driven it since I've been back, I've notice some leaks in oil and some other minor(hopefully) issues.

But I took a close look at it today and found a belt just hanging out on my front axle! Not broken, but looks pretty worn. Looks like it was the inner ring on the crankshaft that goes to what I think is my AC,(whatever is right below the Alt). When I got to feel the belt wheel on the crank it's got quite a bit of play in it, the other wheel feels fine but it does have the tension from the belt so I'm not sure if thats just hiding it.

So can I just slap a new belt on it, or am I gonna have to dive in to the abyss of fixing it?
IMG_2591.webp
 
Yeah. that's the AC drive pulley on the harmonic dampner.

But if it's loose, stop right there- take the belts off, and see where it's loose.
If the big nut in the middle has come loose, it can chew up the keyway or
even the nose of the crank, so check it now.

hth

t
 
TobyB said:
Yeah. that's the AC drive pulley on the harmonic dampner.

But if it's loose, stop right there- take the belts off, and see where it's loose.
If the big nut in the middle has come loose, it can chew up the keyway or
even the nose of the crank, so check it now.
Click to expand...

Great thanks for the quick reply!
What if it's just that wheel that's loose?
 
Also i just realized something, those other two belts haven't moved. How did the belt in the very back (which is not broken) get completely separated from that. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm going to have to remove the other two belts to put this belt on?
 
Yeah, how in the world did that come off?

Are you sure it isn't broken? This is weirddd
 
Yeah, weird. Search 'harmonic balancer wobble' to see if thats whats wrong.
 
So it's just the rear pulley wheel. and the nut is tight. With all the stuff I'm reading it sounds like I should just go ahead and take everything off and fix it. But it's pretty dang cold here and i'd like to wait till it warms a little. Could I just leave that belt off so it's not applying pressure on that pulley? I don't really need the ac right now and thats the only thing the belt goes too.... Or does that need to turn when the engine is going?

Basically I would like to drive my truck, and I'm wondering if can do it without a belt going to the ac.
 
Yah you can drive it w/o the ac belt.
If the pulley is wobbling around, driving it will worsen the wobble. And it could disintegrate, throwing shrapnel.
Observe what it looks like while running at idle + increase speed, is the cranknut wobbling (i know you said its tight)?
Or just the empty pulley? Visualize the centerline of crankshaft running to rear of engine.... that line should not wobble, much.
Can you video and post?
 
I would not drive it like that. Potential for damage is too risky.
 
I just looked at the 2F 3-groove crank pulley in the garage and that inner groove pulley is riveted to the two groove pulley. It's interesting that it appears the inner pulley is coming loose.
3FE pulleys are easier and less expensive to source than 3 groove 2F pulleys. The 3FE inner pulley is slightly smaller in diameter than the 2F pulley, so the A/C compressor runs a little slower, but I don't think it affects the A/C system.
 
That's a performance boost then! Under-drive pulleys for a 2F!

Not sure about repairing a harmonic balancer. Pretty sure not many people do it. If at all
 
Okay I'll be looking out for either of them. So for taking this sucker off, I'm trying to figure out what all I need to take off to be able to take off the harmonic balancer?

Also (I'm scared to ask), what else should I replace since I'm down there? I don't want to open another can of worms, but if I could save myself some trouble in the future, I'll do it.
 
Just went through this with my 2F. The crank bolt was tight but the 6 rivets that hold the pulley to the balancer came loose. Made a horrible noise like it spun a rod bearing. Found a used assembly locally and that fixed it.
 
The crank nut is 46mm.

Wedge a breaker bar with large socket in place, crank the engine over, and it will break it loose. Makes sense because the engine rotates clockwise when standing in front the radiator. Turning the motor with a stationary wrench would break the nut loose. Never done this, but heard it is what works.

You then will probably need a puller to remove the harmonic balancer. I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

IF the timing gear cover is leaking you could get into that, and replace the seal that sits in the timing cover that seals the shaft.

Be sure to research the correct procedure for doing the timing cover gasket. I remember it to be very specific. Also be prepared to remove the woodruff key. I was a little intimidated by it at first.
 
klinetime574 said:
The crank nut is 46mm.

Wedge a breaker bar with large socket in place, crank the engine over, and it will break it loose. Makes sense because the engine rotates clockwise when standing in front the radiator. Turning the motor with a stationary wrench would break the nut loose. Never done this, but heard it is what works.
Click to expand...

Make sure you pull the main lead off the coil first!!!! You don't want the engine to run. Just bump it, check it, reset and repeat as necessary.


klinetime574 said:
You then will probably need a puller to remove the harmonic balancer. I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

Easily rented or bought from local parts store; You can get a three arm puller or one that uses bolts to thread into the holes in the crank pulley. It is worth buying IMHO; they are cheap and useful. You could also cheaply fab a puller from 3/8" flat steel and some bolts.

klinetime574 said:
IF the timing gear cover is leaking you could get into that, and replace the seal that sits in the timing cover that seals the shaft.
Click to expand...

I would replace the timing cover seal (and paint the cover if it is rusty) and the crankshaft seal while I was in there, as a matter of course. Pay attention to where each cover bolt came from, there are some specific bolts whose location is determined by their length.

klinetime574 said:
Be sure to research the correct procedure for doing the timing cover gasket. I remember it to be very specific. Also be prepared to remove the woodruff key. I was a little intimidated by it at first.
Click to expand...
 
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