Problem or no....

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That's a performance boost then! Under-drive pulleys for a 2F!

Not sure about repairing a harmonic balancer. Pretty sure not many people do it. If at all
there is an outfit in WA that rebuilds the balancers...new rubber damper and all. fairly inexpensive if I recall..will try to find the link...
 
also, when installing the timing cover/balance, do not tighten the cover screws/bolts till after the balancer is on the shaft. this will allow the balancer to center the cover and seal...
 
okay, it looks like I need to remove the fan shroud to get the socket to fit? I already have 45 from a previous car so thats convenient.
Thanks for all the tips guys!
Just to clarify 1 more time. I can put a 3fe on there? I've already had a member message and he has a 2f and 3fe harmonic balancer.
 
okay, it looks like I need to remove the fan shroud to get the socket to fit? I already have 45 from a previous car so thats convenient.
Thanks for all the tips guys!
Just to clarify 1 more time. I can put a 3fe on there? I've already had a member message and he has a 2f and 3fe harmonic balancer.

Yes, you can.
 
I like this design of puller for the harmonic balancer

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From what I've been reading the trick to get the HB off is by sticking a breaker bar on it and getting it snug on the ground, and then crank the engine once over. Is there any tricks for this or advice for the ones that are really stubborn? Cause I tried it multiple times yesterday with no avail. my phone is down or I would show you exactly what I'm doing.
 
strap the breaker bar with a pipe extension to the driver's side of the frame and hit the starter a few times in succession. bang...bang...bang.. bang. You'll know when its loose,when the engine cranks a time or 2 (or the wrench fell off). It may take a few resets, but it will go. Also, you might want to get a piece of thick cardboard or some 1/4" plywood to protect the radiator if the wrench flies of the nut.
 
Okay, so i tried to pin it, but 1 my breaker bar isn't staying put. and 2 I've done it about 12 times and it'll hit hard, but the bolt is still tight as all get out...
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The pictures I left thumbnails are a bolt I'm having issues with, It broken off twice now... I ground it down with a file close to flat on two sides and used a vice grip to try to screw it, but it never moved once, and then just today it decided to leave me with even less to work with. Any ideas?

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Suggestions>
Crank Nut:
Soak the area around the nut with PB blaster for several days. It may not penetrate but it doesn't hurt.
The wrench is falling off because it is not jammed tight enough against the nut. JAMB it. Use mechanical leverage on that board with straps or something.
I did not have success locking the wrench in a static position and cranking the starter. The method I posted above worked on the third try.

Water Outlet Housing:
File broken bolts flat
Drill them out
Re-tap
Take your time

or

find a used one if you can.
 
Okay, so i got it secured down some more, to the point in which it stays on, and doesn't go flying off. I've cranked the engine for around half an hour. Still no luck, I really would prefer to not remove the radiator. but I'm at lose as how to get this sucker to come off
 
Time to enlist the help of a local club to help you figure it out. The annual dues more than pay for the reduction in frustration on jobs like this.
 
Last resort before pulling the rad: Back the truck against a wall, put it in 1st gear, put the wrench on it with a long piece of sched 40 pipe cheater bar, pull towards the passenger side and pray the the nut yields before the wrench does.
Maybe?
 
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