PrInSu Design Studio - 80 series roof rack

[Box Rocket]

Hi BoxRocket!

1) What is the coating on the aluminum? Powdercoat crinkle black? Black Anodized?
2) I know you just got it on, how are the screws secured? Locktite on all? My concern is loosening and rattling over time and what maintenance must be done.
3) I really like the look of the rack. I personally think the solid rail will improve the rain gutter effect since it makes the rain gutter effectively taller and will still force the rain to run to the front or rear to drain.
4) Any thoughts on a front cross member to act as a stop lip for equipment loaded on the roof under heavy braking conditions?
5) I like the design basis and should make shipping MUCH less expensive.
6) What is the total weight of the rack as it is shown on your truck?
7) I like the slots for adjustability and to allow easy, secure use of ratchet straps and bungee cords to hook on the rails or the cross members.
8) In order to install the eyelets like you have, does that cross member need to be removed, then a bolt slid in, then reassembled?
9) How are the side retaining clips attached? Are they just a piece of angel with a tube on the outside, or is there a lip that can grip the underside of the rain gutter? I would be concerned for slippage or bending from overtightening.
10) Does the bolt head of the gutter clips interfere with the doors?

I like it! I'm just asking for more understanding for later! I like the idea of the full side rail to allow more even pressure on the rain gutter.

1) Textured black powder coat on the rails. Crossbars and hardware are black anodized (or raw for aluminum for everything).
2) All hardware are star head machine screws with a fender washer and lock washer. I'm currently not using any Loctite and everything has stayed tight so far. Loctite could easily be added at the time of assembly.
3) Agreed
4) I believe Zach has some laser cut accessories like that available (i.e. fuel can mounts etc). Check the website. Personally, I think if items are lashed/secured correctly an addition rail is unnecessary.
5) Agreed
6) I don't have an exact weight be my guess is less than 45lbs in total.
7) Yep. pretty versatile design for securing loads
8) Yes. It's a simple process. I moved some of mine on Saturday. Only one end of the crossbar needs to be loosened to allow you to remove the eyelet and move it to another crossbar. Only took a couple minutes. IIRC, Zach plans to include 12 of the eyelets with each rack. Please refer to his website to be sure.
9) It has a lip. Very little chance of it slipping off.
10) This was a concern, but there is no clearance issues with the door. There is slight contact with the door weatherstripping but it isn't enough to damage the weatherstripping or cause any other issues. It is really only the very front one that would even be a question. The other ones are mostly out of the way of the doors.

 

[Box Rocket]

Hi BoxRocket!

1) What is the coating on the aluminum? Powdercoat crinkle black? Black Anodized?
2) I know you just got it on, how are the screws secured? Locktite on all? My concern is loosening and rattling over time and what maintenance must be done.
3) I really like the look of the rack. I personally think the solid rail will improve the rain gutter effect since it makes the rain gutter effectively taller and will still force the rain to run to the front or rear to drain.
4) Any thoughts on a front cross member to act as a stop lip for equipment loaded on the roof under heavy braking conditions?
5) I like the design basis and should make shipping MUCH less expensive.
6) What is the total weight of the rack as it is shown on your truck?
7) I like the slots for adjustability and to allow easy, secure use of ratchet straps and bungee cords to hook on the rails or the cross members.
8) In order to install the eyelets like you have, does that cross member need to be removed, then a bolt slid in, then reassembled?
9) How are the side retaining clips attached? Are they just a piece of angel with a tube on the outside, or is there a lip that can grip the underside of the rain gutter? I would be concerned for slippage or bending from overtightening.
10) Does the bolt head of the gutter clips interfere with the doors?

I like it! I'm just asking for more understanding for later! I like the idea of the full side rail to allow more even pressure on the rain gutter.

1) Textured black powder coat on the rails. Crossbars and hardware are black anodized (or raw for aluminum for everything).
2) All hardware are star head machine screws with a fender washer and lock washer. I'm currently not using any Loctite and everything has stayed tight so far. Loctite could easily be added at the time of assembly.
3) Agreed
4) I believe Zach has some laser cut accessories like that available (i.e. fuel can mounts etc). Check the website. Personally, I think if items are lashed/secured correctly an addition rail is unnecessary.
5) Agreed
6) I don't have an exact weight be my guess is less than 45lbs in total.
7) Yep. pretty versatile design for securing loads
8) Yes. It's a simple process. I moved some of mine on Saturday. Only one end of the crossbar needs to be loosened to allow you to remove the eyelet and move it to another crossbar. Only took a couple minutes. IIRC, Zach plans to include 12 of the eyelets with each rack. Please refer to his website to be sure. Zach also mentioned some drop-in eyelets as a possibility but I think he wants to do a bit more testing to be sure they are secure enough.
9) It has a lip. Very little chance of it slipping off.
10) This was a concern, but there is no clearance issues with the door. There is slight contact with the door weatherstripping but it isn't enough to damage the weatherstripping or cause any other issues. It is really only the very front one that would even be a question. The other ones are mostly out of the way of the doors.

 

[Box Rocket]

^^^ I've been wondering the same thing, I'd notch it myself if it is not done, taking it apart to add a tie down is a non-starter for me.

Uh oh, I hope they thought this part through.

Seriously guys? You make me laugh. It's not that hard. Does anyone turn a wrench on their own stuff anymore? It's probably more work to add as nice of a tie down to just about any other rack out there. It doesn't require fully taking it apart with the current design. Just loosen the two bolts that holds one end of the crossbar and it can be raised enough to slide the eyelet into place. Took me all of about 30 sec. when I did that on Saturday. Also with a dozen of these eyelets included with the rack you can usually just leave them alone. Put them on the crossbars you intend to use most to secure gear and slide them out of the way if you need to. With 6 slots on each crossbar, and with how cheap the eyelets are, you could have a dozen eyelets on each crossbar if you wanted and could slide them wherever you wanted. Heck just install them on the front and back slots instead of the top if your worried about the eyelet being in the way on the top.

Of course if you want to notch the rails you could but I think that would not only weaken the rail but also weaken the area where the bolts secure the crossbars.

 

[NLXTACY]

This is all that is needed. Its not that hard when you have nothing on the rack. It gets harder once its loaded down with stuff

Nevermind my two minute photoshop skills but you should get the idea.

 

[Box Rocket]

I will say, you guys are good at poking holes is stuff. The things you guys are calling "deal-breakers" seem so minor to me, but everyone has their own "must-haves" and that's cool. If this rack doesn't have what you want, there are other options, and it's also possible that Zach could tweak the design to accommodate some of the suggestions. Personally. I don't see any change necessary as the changes could introduce a different flaw that is equally or more inconvenient.

 

[jeffro109]

It's a wonderful rack, and a very good design. It is not the action of taking the screws loose, it is the idea of doing it many times and then buggering up the screws in the long run. The drop in or drop in and twist idea is much better for a quick change in the home center parking lot or backwoods, at least for me.

I'd add the notch about a foot out from the ends, far away from the attachment point, with a circular shape and you'd not change the structural limit of that bar enough to be an issue in my opinion or create a stress concentration point.


edit to add--it's nowhere near a dealbreaker for me, I'd just mod it to suit my own needs/desires.

 

[NLXTACY]

It doesn't require fully taking it apart with the current design. Just loosen the two bolts that holds one end of the crossbar and it can be raised enough to slide the eyelet into place.

Sure, its easy if its unloaded. I had and built many rack designs over the years so I'm not talking outta my ass

Of course if you want to notch the rails you could but I think that would not only weaken the rail but also weaken the area where the bolts secure the crossbars.

If that were the case then aluminum aircraft tie-down rails would be failing left and right. It'll be ok

 

[NLXTACY]

I will say, you guys are good at poking holes is stuff. The things you guys are calling "deal-breakers" seem so minor to me, but everyone has their own "must-haves" and that's cool. If this rack doesn't have what you want, there are other options, and it's also possible that Zach could tweak the design to accommodate some of the suggestions. Personally. I don't see any change necessary as the changes could introduce a different flaw that is equally or more inconvenient.

Never said it was a deal breaker at all. I'm already sold on the design and QBall and I are working out shipping. I'm just pointing out my own concerns.

 

[Box Rocket]

This is all that is needed. Its not that hard when you have nothing on the rack. It gets harder once its loaded down with stuff

Nevermind my two minute photoshop skills but you should get the idea.

View attachment 1047313

Gotcha. That would definitely work but just understand that the extra machine work for every crossbar to add that notch will increase the cost of the rack (likely). One of the great things about this rack (IMO) is the affordable cost, and that could be lost. Personally for as simple as it is to move the eyelets around it is not worth the additional cost of machining every crossbar. If you wanted to do that on your own after the fact, then have it at, and I agree it is a nice feature.

Also, as a reminder this is all purely my OPINION and nothing more as I have absolutely no say in what changes couldn't be implemented. I'm sure Zach would be open to hear any of these suggestions and would do his best to make them happen if he can. He is VERY receptive of the feedback. Stand up guy, no doubt.

 

[NLXTACY]

I'd add the notch about a foot out from the ends, far away from the attachment point, with a circular shape and you'd not change the structural limit of that bar enough to be an issue in my opinion or create a stress concentration point.

Exactly what I'll be doing. That way I can use a thousand different tie-points found here:
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware

edit to add--it's nowhere near a dealbreaker for me, I'd just mod it to suit my own needs/desires.

Bingo!

 

[jeffro109]

Depending on final top height, I also plan to buy one. I don't think combined shipping with these other CA yahoos will help me though...

 

[jcardona1]

Feel free to discuss the racks here and ask questions. I'll be sending this link to the builder but if he's not monitoring the thread, I'll do my best to answer questions.

You sure do seem to get hostile when people ask questions and provide feedback after you specifically asked for it. Might be best to let the builder deal with this thread going forward as you really have no vested interest in what people have to say, which I totally understand. I'd be annoyed too dealing the the MUD crowd if I'm not making money from them.

 

[NLXTACY]

Gotcha. That would definitely work but just understand that the extra machine work for every crossbar to add that notch will increase the cost of the rack (likely). One of the great things about this rack (IMO) is the affordable cost, and that could be lost. Personally for as simple as it is to move the eyelets around it is not worth the additional cost of machining every crossbar. If you wanted to do that on your own after the fact, then have it at, and I agree it is a nice feature.

Also, as a reminder this is all purely my OPINION and nothing more as I have absolutely no say in what changes couldn't be implemented. I'm sure Zach would be open to hear any of these suggestions and would do his best to make them happen if he can. He is VERY receptive of the feedback. Stand up guy, no doubt.

All understood and its all good.

I, and most, have a drill press so popping it two holes in each bar 1ft from the edge is all that would be needed to add a tie-point anywhere and easily.

 

[Box Rocket]

Sure, its easy if its unloaded. I had and built many rack designs over the years so I'm not talking outta my ass



If that were the case then aluminum aircraft tie-down rails would be failing left and right. It'll be ok

We were thinking about this differently. Before you posted the photo with the notched crossbar I assumed you guys were talking about notching the side rails. I don't think that would be a good idea, but doing what you photoshopped is a good solution but would just add some production cost.

also never accused you of talking out of your ass, but you're making judgements based on experience with other racks. I'm speaking from firsthand experience with THIS rack and I don't think it would be as difficult as you might think. I understand your point. I'm just offering a counter-point.

 

[NLXTACY]

You sure do seem to get hostile when people ask questions and provide feedback after you specifically asked for it. Might be best to let the builder deal with this thread going forward as you really have no vested interest in what people have to say, which I totally understand. I'd be annoyed too dealing the the MUD crowd if I'm not making money from them.

I don't think its a money thing. I think BoxRocket feels its a perfect design and may not understand the need for some of our feedback suggestions. But these suggestions, mostly, are based on experience. Every year I do a 5000mile trip with my son and a roof rack is part of the equation. You learn early on what works and what doesn't.

But yeah, he did say he was asking for feedback so

 

[Box Rocket]

You sure do seem to get hostile when people ask questions and provide feedback after you specifically asked for it. Might be best to let the builder deal with this thread going forward as you really have no vested interest in what people have to say, which I totally understand. I'd be annoyed too dealing the the MUD crowd if I'm not making money from them.

Sorry man, wasn't meant to come across as hostile at all. Just trying to answer questions like I said I would. Tone is often lost in a typed message. If any of my comments thus far have seemed hostile, I apologize, they are not meant that way. I'll try to be less blunt with my personal opinions.

 

[bmac1996acc]

I'm definitely not in the "it's too tall" crowd. I like it because it's low. I was just concerned with, as was in the first post, the production version being 1" taller to clear the roof ribs.

 

[NLXTACY]

We were thinking about this differently. Before you posted the photo with the notched crossbar I assumed you guys were talking about notching the side rails. I don't think that would be a good idea, but doing what you photoshopped is a good solution but would just add some production cost.

also never accused you of talking out of your ass, but you're making judgements based on experience with other racks. I'm speaking from firsthand experience with THIS rack and I don't think it would be as difficult as you might think. I understand your point. I'm just offering a counter-point.

Totally understood. You have the luxury of having it grace your roof so I only have pictures to work from. Its all for the betterment of the final product and food for thought. If Zac decides not to add holes/notches because it negatively effects the cost then that is totally understood. It will take me all of 10 minutes per rail to add the holes myself. No boggie.

 

[jeffro109]

You sure do seem to get hostile when people ask questions and provide feedback after you specifically asked for it. Might be best to let the builder deal with this thread going forward as you really have no vested interest in what people have to say, which I totally understand. I'd be annoyed too dealing the the MUD crowd if I'm not making money from them.

I sent some questions to the builder earlier regarding the heights, etc. I urged him to join us here also. If he does not want to, I'll post back any info I get regarding the final height of the rack.

 

[NLXTACY]

I'm definitely not in the "it's too tall" crowd. I like it because it's low. I was just concerned with, as was in the first post, the production version being 1" taller to clear the roof ribs.

Yeah, folks need to remove those stupid roof ribs/rust attractors anyway! Myself included