done. 
Prices on mid- late 90's FJ80 FZJ80 land cruisers?
- Thread starter DiscoveryXD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
alia176
SILVER Star
thumper
SILVER Star
Congratulations on the new name. Looks like the maintenance is coming along nicely. Hope everyone has a good 4th.
Jon
Jon
thanks, you too Jon!
I want to change out the ATF fluid also, has anyone used this technique before? if not, is there a different/better way?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/19299-transmission-fluid-exchange-writeup.html
I want to change out the ATF fluid also, has anyone used this technique before? if not, is there a different/better way?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/19299-transmission-fluid-exchange-writeup.html
alia176
SILVER Star
Matt,
I would change the ATF in stages vs doing it all at once. The crud that's built up in the seals and valves need to come out in stages vs a sudden shock. Changing out ATF when you do the engine oil is a good routine to fall into IMHO.
I would change the ATF in stages vs doing it all at once. The crud that's built up in the seals and valves need to come out in stages vs a sudden shock. Changing out ATF when you do the engine oil is a good routine to fall into IMHO.
ok, that makes sense. So I should drain a few quarts from the pan, and then add some new ATF. From what ive read, only a few quarts comes out anyways when you pull the drain plug. There a particular brand I should avoid, or a brand you recommend? The FAQ page says Dextron II, but Ive read a lot of guys running III. Not sure if it matters.
alia176
SILVER Star
Yup, just drain what ever comes out, usually about 4 quarts and then put the same amount back in. Use Dexron III or equiv. Just so you know, you can use cheap gas, crappy oil and she'll still run like a top.
These are basically glorified tractor motors made to run in third world countries, service by the locals using the finest bailing wire avail to him. So don't go through the trouble of going all crazy with fancy fluids and such until you've had her for a while and learned her personality.
Ok. Jack has told me that before, but I guess its the rover owner in me always wanting to put liquid gold in it or its going to cr*p out on me!
Last edited:
alia176
SILVER Star
yeah, that's normal LR behavior...!!!
haha, yeah i know you've been there with the rangie...
So, my goal is to change out the t-stat, radiator hoses, and radiator before I go hunting in august. I forgot to order the PHH (this one... Silicone) the day I ordered my parts from Onur, so ill order that as soon as i can.
here's a shot of the PHH as is right now (not bad, little bulging, but not bad i'd say) and of the block drain that Jack told me about.
My plan as follows...
1. Drain radiator at petcock, drain block with the brass bolt.
2. Fill with distilled water, let it run, cool, drain, repeat 2-3 (enough?) times.
3. replace radiator, hoses, and dreaded PHH, fill with 50/50 distilled/toyota Red.
good?
So, my goal is to change out the t-stat, radiator hoses, and radiator before I go hunting in august. I forgot to order the PHH (this one... Silicone) the day I ordered my parts from Onur, so ill order that as soon as i can.
here's a shot of the PHH as is right now (not bad, little bulging, but not bad i'd say) and of the block drain that Jack told me about.
My plan as follows...
1. Drain radiator at petcock, drain block with the brass bolt.
2. Fill with distilled water, let it run, cool, drain, repeat 2-3 (enough?) times.
3. replace radiator, hoses, and dreaded PHH, fill with 50/50 distilled/toyota Red.
good?
alia176
SILVER Star
Instead of distilled water, use simple tap water and run the vehicle like that for couple of weeks. Drain the water out of the radiator about every couple of days into a white 5 gallon pail until the water seems to clear to you. Disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall and give her a water enema with the garden hose. THEN, go the distilled water route.
If the radiator hoses feels soft and pliable, no reason to change them. If the inside of the radiator looks clean (through the fill hole) then I wouldn't be in a hurry to change it unless you've ordered it already.
I know that the silicone hose seems to be very popular but I'm not all that crazy about it. If a simple coolant hose can last 150xxx miles, why wouldn't one simply replace it with another one? People are going nutty about constant tension clamps and a fancy hose when simple clamps and an old fashioned hose seem just as effective. Well at least that's what I did on both of my 80s anyway; I used Gates rubber hoses. The Silicone tends to ooze around the clamps and don't seal as well and in some cases required a re-visit of the clamps. YMMV as they say.
Just my .02 cents.
If the radiator hoses feels soft and pliable, no reason to change them. If the inside of the radiator looks clean (through the fill hole) then I wouldn't be in a hurry to change it unless you've ordered it already.
I know that the silicone hose seems to be very popular but I'm not all that crazy about it. If a simple coolant hose can last 150xxx miles, why wouldn't one simply replace it with another one? People are going nutty about constant tension clamps and a fancy hose when simple clamps and an old fashioned hose seem just as effective. Well at least that's what I did on both of my 80s anyway; I used Gates rubber hoses. The Silicone tends to ooze around the clamps and don't seal as well and in some cases required a re-visit of the clamps. YMMV as they say.
Just my .02 cents.
I agree, nothing fancy here, just regular heater hose and regular hose clamps for the PHH. Just keep telling yourself, what would they do in a third world country??? Not much is the answer. Just replace it with some hose/clamps and call it good.
Jack
The fluid in the radiator right now is very dark, and looks like it hasnt been changed in ages. I already bought a new radiator (cause of how crappy the fluid looks, just would rather replace it now) and I ordered the new hoses with the other stuff. If the old hoses look good inside and out, i'll just keep them as spares.
i'll see if Napa or anyone else in towns sells the Gates rubber hose.
As far as the water enema goes, just pull one of the heater hoses and attach a hose to the end of it? I'm not to sure how to go about it and which hose to use ( i need to buy a manual for this thing cause i'm not to sure where everything is yet.) WHen I do flush it with the hose, pull the brass bolt on the block, and all the hoses to let it drain out in as many spots as possible?
alia176
SILVER Star
It probably makes sense to start a new PM thread on you ride....
Sounds good on the radiator stuff; already bought so done deal. Yeah, I have my old set as a spare too. First they stayed in the spare box in the 80, then move to the garage after five years. I may never need them, who knows!
NAPA carries Gates and I think it's the black with red or just red. It's a royal PITA to slip over the nipples but once they're on, THEY'RE ON!
Regarding the heater core enema: disconnect the four hoses at the firewall that are going into the cab. Make up a makeshift enema tool for the end of the garden hose then stick it on the top left hose, turn on water and watch nastiness coming out of the top right hose. Same for the lower left and right hose. Then reverse side, rinse and repeat. This will flush out both heater cores.
I see from the pic below that the left hoses are connected together so you can hit both at once. This is outlet (as coolant travels) out of the heater cores.
Sounds good on the radiator stuff; already bought so done deal. Yeah, I have my old set as a spare too. First they stayed in the spare box in the 80, then move to the garage after five years. I may never need them, who knows!
NAPA carries Gates and I think it's the black with red or just red. It's a royal PITA to slip over the nipples but once they're on, THEY'RE ON!
Regarding the heater core enema: disconnect the four hoses at the firewall that are going into the cab. Make up a makeshift enema tool for the end of the garden hose then stick it on the top left hose, turn on water and watch nastiness coming out of the top right hose. Same for the lower left and right hose. Then reverse side, rinse and repeat. This will flush out both heater cores.
I see from the pic below that the left hoses are connected together so you can hit both at once. This is outlet (as coolant travels) out of the heater cores.
ok sounds good. I'll start a new thread...
alia176
SILVER Star
be careful on moving the heater hoses around and the heater valve. That valve can break if you're not careful.
