Prices for dealer replacement of left front axle?

[suprarx7nut]

My local dealer is known for charging a lot. I should have known when the OEM heater T's cost me $40. Oh well. I guess I'll try it myself next time but I'll need to find another source for OEM axles because they are charging $500 for the aftermarket axle.

Chris

Yeah, it's not going back to the dealer for repairs, they do give me free oil changes though. Although I don't think they've greased the driveshaft since I had to put almost a full tube of grease into the slip joints. I had the passenger side axle replaced last year and I don't think the price was nearly that much. Anyway, if it needs it again I might do it myself. At 192K miles, this is the second replacement for both sides. A friend just told me of a local shop that does good work which formed by mechanics that used to work at the Toyota dealer. I'll have to check them out.

Chris

For posterity, for anyone else that sees this: $500 for an aftermarket axle is insane. Brand new, genuine OEM should be between $400 and $500 per side. Aftermarket should be avoided in all cases, IMO, but if you do go that route, each side should be at most $200.

Beware your local dealer's pricing. I repeat this alllll the time, but dealer pricing is often 50-500% markup. There are many online reputable dealers that sell parts near wholesale. Shop there. Local dealers are REQUIRED by Toyota NA to allow install of genuine Toyota/Lexus parts, even if not bought through them.

Resurrecting an old thread.
I just got quoted $950 per side at my local Toyota dealership to do the C/V Axles on my wifes 2001 LX470. I imagine everything is the exact same as the LC. I'm thinking of doing this myself and using the extra money saved to update other things. I have 225k miles on it, and everything is original. What all would you guys recommend I change out while in there? I was thinking just the tie-rod ends and sway bar bushings. The sway bar bushings look old and rotten, but the tie rod ends look good, as do the upper and lower ball joints. What about bearings? Replace, or just pack with new grease?
I only need this thing to last me another 3 years (30-40k miles) before we upgrade to a 200 series. Thoughts?

For genuine axles, that's about right. You could buy the parts for around $450 per side as of today. Beware that you do risk damaging the ball joints during removal so you may end up half way into the job realizing you need a new ball joint (or two... or four) as well. Bearings are good to re-use. Just pack well with grease. Be sure to buy the C-clips and DO NOT reuse them. They are one-time use and they WILL cause thousands in damage if they slip off on the highway. We've seen more than one person recently have a front end ravaged by an axle that slipped out.

*Also, you could gamble with aftermarket axles, but if the rig is in good shape, I'd go OEM. More $$, but the risk of failure or worn splines is far lower and you can get away with charging more of a premium when you sell if you can show that you weren't the kind of owner to skimp on parts costs on critical items. If the rig is trashed, then it probably doesn't matter.

 

[2001LC]

I like OEM front drive shafts ((FDS) AKA CVs)). Best price is now $401 (up from $355) with $40 core charge. Core charge started ~3 wks ago. For me to get that price, I must have shipped in. Shipping has gone up from ~$50 to ~$100 for a set. So my cost went for $760 to my door for a set to $980 in 1 year.

Core charge indicates, Toyota may not be offering new OEM much longer. Interesting I bought a set last week locally, and did not pay a core charge.

I always replace diff side seals with new FDS, diff gear lube, hub flange w/new cone washers and snap rings.

Wheel bearing rarely need replacing. But need cleaning and inspecting to make that call. Dealership do not clean bearings.

Stabilizer link, cushions & bushings almost always need freshening.

Ball joints need inspecting. Best way to inspect is while knuckle off. Toyota does not replace ball joints. They only sell the LCA w/ball joint.

 

[golfer2000]

I like OEM front drive shafts ((FDS) AKA CVs)). Best price is now $401 (up from $355) with $40 core charge. Core charge started ~3 wks ago. For me to get that price, I must have shipped in. Shipping has gone up from ~$50 to ~$100 for a set. So my cost went for $760 to my door for a set to $980 in 1 year.

Core charge indicates, Toyota may not be offering new OEM much longer. Interesting I bought a set last week locally, and did not pay a core charge.

I always replace diff side seals with new FDS, diff gear lube, hub flange w/new cone washers and snap rings.

Wheel bearing rarely need replacing. But need cleaning and inspecting to make that call. Dealership do not clean bearings.

Stabilizer link, cushions & bushings almost always need freshening.

Ball joints need inspecting. Best way to inspect is while knuckle off. Toyota does not replace ball joints. They only sell the LCA w/ball joint.

That's sad to hear of such a spike in that amount of time. My 06 with 96k had both cvs replaced for some reason at the dealer a few years back and I believe they used aftermarket (based on no yellow bands). Well I have the clunk now on the driver's side,maybe the passenger side as well. Since the aftermarket axles (presumably) are newish,would you just replace the flanges to see if it fixes the clunk or buy all new oem axles,flanges,etc? Goes from 100 to 1000 real quick

 

[ramangain]

That's sad to hear of such a spike in that amount of time. My 06 with 96k had both cvs replaced for some reason at the dealer a few years back and I believe they used aftermarket (based on no yellow bands). Well I have the clunk now on the driver's side,maybe the passenger side as well. Since the aftermarket axles (presumably) are newish,would you just replace the flanges to see if it fixes the clunk or buy all new oem axles,flanges,etc? Goes from 100 to 1000 real quick

Want it REALLY fixed? Get a part time 4wd kit and recoup the cost in gas savings to boot

 

[golfer2000]

Want it REALLY fixed? Get a part time 4wd kit and recoup the cost in gas savings to boot

I haven't really given any thought to that option certainly worth looking into. thanks!

 

[2001LC]

OEM new FDS

OEM boot kit & clamps on Factory FDS

 

[golfer2000]

OEM new FDS
View attachment 2492874

OEM boot kit & clamps on Factory FDS
View attachment 2492875

I just found the old invoice from 2017 and they were 171 per side and no toyota pn so I'm sad to report they are aftermarket units. Not super impressed with the dealer work up to this point

 

[ranma21]

If you have the time, tools and able to diy by all means do it your self. I would change out the bearings and all the seals and gaskets based on 225k miles you have for a mid life refresh. Tie rod ends and sway bar bushings are not while you are in there work but you can certainly do it since wheels are remove. If ball joints are original, I bet at least the lower ball joints are bad. Also check inner and outer rod ends by using 3 and 9 0'clock wiggle method while tires in the air.

Also for anyone who is changing the driver side cv axle, change the oil cooler heater hose as well running from oil cooler to the side of the engine above the cv axle.

Refer to post #18 for reference

Off The Beaten Path Restoration

This beautiful 2000 LX just pulled in for some restoration work. It has 109k miles on the clock, in great condition. It was own by a doctor in its previous ownership. The truck is in very good condition, but it is still a 20 years old truck. Due to age, we are going through the vehicle and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[JOSHD]

Want it REALLY fixed? Get a part time 4wd kit and recoup the cost in gas savings to boot

Have link to that part time kit? What all is involved? Would also like to change the tc gear ratio.

 

[ramangain]

There seem to be several real options, but I keep an eye on this thread: PT 4wd discussion

 

[Borrego]

I did a full inspection to see exactly what I wanted to do while in there. I've decided on the following:
-Replace boots with the Toyota OEM C/V Boot kit on both sides. Use McMaster worm drive clamps that everyone is raving about.
-UCA bushings
-UCA Ball Joints (LCA Ball Joints were done not that long ago and are in good condition.)
-Replace wheel bearings with Timken, along with new Snap Ring kit and oil seals both at the hub and differential.
-Drain and fill Diff
-Replace Tie Rod Ends
-Replace all stabilizer bushings
-Replace oil cooler hose while C/V Axle is out
-Replace valve cover gaskets (slow leak)
-Alignment
-New 285's all around.

I've got everything ordered through McGeorge Online Toyota Parts and Cruiser Outfitters. All in for just under $1000 in parts. In doing everything myself, I'll save a ton over what the dealer wanted, plus be able to do a heck of a lot more!