OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
If you watch the video I did on the h55f swap, it's the piece I forgot and had to redo everything to install 

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Unfortunately I think about stuff too much sometimes...how many times have I been up to my local ACE hardware to get mounting screw options??? Too many! I was going to bite on the DeltaVS wiring loom bars for the QPM, but I figured being $4500 in the hole so far just for parts on the diff & compressor, I'd skip on that at the moment....@CrabCake.... ummm... that top bunch of wires is .03% out of level..... that looks very neat and tidy I hope you don't have to go back in there for a very long time!!
That def shows some great planning and forethought man!
Should send a pic to Toyota High Mileage Club program. Think they send you a badge or sticker.
So what have you needed to to the engine leading up to 300k?
I think I've seen some of those stickers before. Will look into how to get one!Should send a pic to Toyota High Mileage Club program. Think they send you a badge or sticker.
I've only had the truck since Jan of last year and got it at 264k miles. In that time I have done the water pump, timing belt, front crank seal, thermostat, and one or two small things last Oct at 280k. Since then I just did spark plugs at the tech day and that's been it. Also oil changes every 5k. I'm thinking about sending off an oil sample to see what's wearing inside at 300k.So what have you needed to to the engine leading up to 300k?
gas, gas, and more gasSo what have you needed to to the engine leading up to 300k?
Interesting, I wonder what the difference in oil is? I've literally been running a blend of automotive oils in my mower for years. If I have a little left over from an oil change it goes in a jug and thats what the mower gets at the beginning of the season. 5w-30, 10w-30, synthetic, conventional, doesn't matter it all goes in the jug. Mine doesn't burn a drop of oilAlso, the guy at K&M said the cause was me using automotive oil instead of Kohler oil. There's no way this thing should have blowed up with only ~800 hours on it. Apparently it was burning oil and was low enough to roach the connecting rod. There are no crank shaft/con rod bearings on this motor which I found strange.
I think mower oil is thicker, maybe straight 30? Not sure. But yes, I have run automotive oil in mowers forever. My Deer does get Deere oil, just because.Interesting, I wonder what the difference in oil is? I've literally been running a blend of automotive oils in my mower for years. If I have a little left over from an oil change it goes in a jug and thats what the mower gets at the beginning of the season. 5w-30, 10w-30, synthetic, conventional, doesn't matter it all goes in the jug. Mine doesn't burn a drop of oil
That is strange that there are no rod bearings
So how come you didn't LS swap it?Net result..... a new motor that cost about as much as a new crate LS.![]()