Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (19 Viewers)

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Slow progress, basically starting from the rear panel and working towards the front. Hopefully won’t have to redo anything in the near future!

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@CrabCake.... ummm... that top bunch of wires is .03% out of level..... that looks very neat and tidy I hope you don't have to go back in there for a very long time!!

That def shows some great planning and forethought man!
 
@CrabCake.... ummm... that top bunch of wires is .03% out of level..... that looks very neat and tidy I hope you don't have to go back in there for a very long time!!

That def shows some great planning and forethought man!
Unfortunately I think about stuff too much sometimes...how many times have I been up to my local ACE hardware to get mounting screw options??? Too many! I was going to bite on the DeltaVS wiring loom bars for the QPM, but I figured being $4500 in the hole so far just for parts on the diff & compressor, I'd skip on that at the moment.... o_O
 
Should send a pic to Toyota High Mileage Club program. Think they send you a badge or sticker.
I think I've seen some of those stickers before. Will look into how to get one!


So what have you needed to to the engine leading up to 300k?
I've only had the truck since Jan of last year and got it at 264k miles. In that time I have done the water pump, timing belt, front crank seal, thermostat, and one or two small things last Oct at 280k. Since then I just did spark plugs at the tech day and that's been it. Also oil changes every 5k. I'm thinking about sending off an oil sample to see what's wearing inside at 300k.
 
I had been burning oil in my Scag for a while and didn't check the oil before running it a couple weeks back and kablooie!

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Net result..... a new motor that cost about as much as a new crate LS. :bang::bang:

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The wild thing is the engine still ran like this which made it nice and easy to load it up on the trailer to take it our to K&M in Culpepper. They had it back to me in less than a week.
 
Also, the guy at K&M said the cause was me using automotive oil instead of Kohler oil. There's no way this thing should have blowed up with only ~800 hours on it. Apparently it was burning oil and was low enough to roach the connecting rod. There are no crank shaft/con rod bearings on this motor which I found strange.
 
Also, the guy at K&M said the cause was me using automotive oil instead of Kohler oil. There's no way this thing should have blowed up with only ~800 hours on it. Apparently it was burning oil and was low enough to roach the connecting rod. There are no crank shaft/con rod bearings on this motor which I found strange.
Interesting, I wonder what the difference in oil is? I've literally been running a blend of automotive oils in my mower for years. If I have a little left over from an oil change it goes in a jug and thats what the mower gets at the beginning of the season. 5w-30, 10w-30, synthetic, conventional, doesn't matter it all goes in the jug. Mine doesn't burn a drop of oil

That is strange that there are no rod bearings
 
Interesting, I wonder what the difference in oil is? I've literally been running a blend of automotive oils in my mower for years. If I have a little left over from an oil change it goes in a jug and thats what the mower gets at the beginning of the season. 5w-30, 10w-30, synthetic, conventional, doesn't matter it all goes in the jug. Mine doesn't burn a drop of oil

That is strange that there are no rod bearings
I think mower oil is thicker, maybe straight 30? Not sure. But yes, I have run automotive oil in mowers forever. My Deer does get Deere oil, just because.
 
Yeah, I was pretty much putting whatever I had on hand in once per year. I figured I did about 1/20 the mowing this machine is capable of so it'd be fine. What really frustrated me, other than the cost, was seeing the cylinder walls look so good. I was totally ready to see massive scoring but both looked good. I'm not sure how all the oil was getting in to the combustion chamber. I guess the valve seals?
 
@iptman valve seals are a possibility, was a new rod and crank not available? I kind of thought the same the cylinder walls look good enough for a quick ball hone and put it back together
 
$570 for a new crank. $260 for each piston/ring combo (ring sets NLA). $70/rod. About a 1/3 the cost of a new engine (installed) right there. I would have rather this to have happened in a month, or so, from now and made it a winter project. I still might put this all in a bin and throw it on a shelf and see how a feel about it in the future.
 
So they're suggesting that using automotive oil is what led to the burn which led to the self-destruction?
That motor is in a lot of mowers. Seems like there'd be a s***-ton of reports of failures of this type. But there aren't.

I've got a Kohler 850 in a Hustler. The only thing it burns is an obscene amount of fuel. Sometimes I think there's gotta be a leak.
 
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