Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (4 Viewers)

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I'm pretty sure there aren't seals in the shaft bores. I think it's just a tight machined fit. I've never pulled a throttle shaft out though to see for sure. The one I had that was bad whistled under load. Putting grease around the throttle shafts made the noise go away until the grease sucked through. That one was really loose. If I get a chance I'll dig out one of my parts carbs and see if they have shaft seals.


Wow, whistling?! I guess LC motors aren’t as sensitive to minor air leaks. Most bikes have a carb for each cylinder and control air/fuel mixtures for engines that are 1/10 to 1/20 the size of the 2F tractor engine. When I'm working on a bike that's running like crap I get excited when I find a vacuum leak, it's usually a pretty easy fix.

Looks like it is a machined fit, none of the carb diagrams showed anything resembling a seal.
 
I'm in the same boat.

Did you try wacking the bolt with a hammer? Sometime that can break the threads free.

My advice is cut the heads before they break, it might not be the bolt head that fails 1st.

The PO of my 450 had the same problem when he tried to take the hitch off. The PS forward bolt head is broken off and the DS forward weld nut broke off inside the frame. I’ve been spraying the PS and trying to unscrew if with vice grips with no luck. My next step is to cut it off flush with the frame and drill it out. The DS is worse, it seems my choices are to weld a plate onto a nut onto some sort of plate that will fit inside the frame but prevent it from spinning when I tighten the bolt for the hitch, or maybe do the same with a bolt so it sticks down like a stud. Or, cut a small access hole into the frame and weld another nut in place of the broken one. I haven't decided yet.

Yeah, I think there will be a grinder in my future.
 
Thanks guys. I was trying to get an idea of how involved this might be to see if I wanted to mess with it before Fall Crawl. I'm out of town this weekend so truck prep time is very limited. I'll think I will put this off for a few weeks so I can take my time. On to plan B:beer:
 
I attempted to remove the trailer hitch on Rhea's 80 so I could clean and paint it. The bolts are rusted so badly that I don't think I am going to be able to remove it without snapping the bolts. I tried heat and (fairly weak) impact wrench. 4 of the 6 bolts have no access for applying penetrating oil.

So, what to do? The only way forward I can think is the cut the bolt heads off, drop the hitch, then try penetrating oil and heat on the remaining bolts to try and work them out. Any other suggestions?

You might try paraffin wax & heat. I've ever tried it but it seems to be popular. Wire brush around the bolt head, heat & try to get the wax to wick up the threads. Admittedly sounds to good to be true.

Otherwise my favorite method is to soak, soak, soak in penetrate and then take a breaker bar & socket and try to "gently" wiggle the bolt back and forth to break it. If it breaks, then slowly try to remove it with a combo of loosening, tightning and spraying penetrate oil.

BTY, did you find an aircleaner for your 40? I found one in my shed last week.
 
New springs. 2 in!
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Flushed my AHC fluid today. Super easy!
 
Thanks guys. I was trying to get an idea of how involved this might be to see if I wanted to mess with it before Fall Crawl. I'm out of town this weekend so truck prep time is very limited. I'll think I will put this off for a few weeks so I can take my time. On to plan B:beer:
I might have an earlier carb base. I can bring to FC, if you want.
 
You might try paraffin wax & heat. I've ever tried it but it seems to be popular. Wire brush around the bolt head, heat & try to get the wax to wick up the threads. Admittedly sounds to good to be true.

Otherwise my favorite method is to soak, soak, soak in penetrate and then take a breaker bar & socket and try to "gently" wiggle the bolt back and forth to break it. If it breaks, then slowly try to remove it with a combo of loosening, tightning and spraying penetrate oil.

BTY, did you find an aircleaner for your 40? I found one in my shed last week.

I'll take it! Are you going to Fall Crawl?
 
If you snap the bolts. Weld a nut on to make a new bolt head. The heat from welding loosens up the schmoo and makes the bolt back out easier.

Grind the head off the bolt. Then get a nut big enough to fit over what is left of the bolt after the hitch is removed then weld it on.
Of if you have room you can weld a heavy piece of flat stock and use it to turn the old bolt out.
 
Replaced master cylinder and proportioning valve on my '65 40 which has front disc and rear drum set up. All seemed well but after about 20 minutes of neighborhood driving it started dragging as I let off gas. All four wheels locking up or dragging. By the time I got it home I had smoke rolling off the fronts and the rears were hot as could be. Brand new AISIN m/c so it should be fine. Maybe the used proportioning valve is bad. Gonna take it off and put the original back on and see what I get. Old one leaked a tiny bit is only reason I replaced it.
Drained and refilled transfer case and both diffs. I need to get the 3 speed t/case rebuilt soon. Noisy as Hell.
Plus, my throttle cable broke recently. I got a cheap universal in there at the moment but ordered a stainless LOKAR with stainless braided sleeve.
 
What mc did you get? Should be for a later 40 with disc fronts. Also what prop valve did you get?
May also need to adjust push rod. MC may not be traveling full range and thus, keeping pressure on brakes.
 
Replaced master cylinder and proportioning valve on my '65 40 which has front disc and rear drum set up. All seemed well but after about 20 minutes of neighborhood driving it started dragging as I let off gas. All four wheels locking up or dragging. By the time I got it home I had smoke rolling off the fronts and the rears were hot as could be. Brand new AISIN m/c so it should be fine. Maybe the used proportioning valve is bad. Gonna take it off and put the original back on and see what I get. Old one leaked a tiny bit is only reason I replaced it.
Drained and refilled transfer case and both diffs. I need to get the 3 speed t/case rebuilt soon. Noisy as Hell.
Plus, my throttle cable broke recently. I got a cheap universal in there at the moment but ordered a stainless LOKAR with stainless braided sleeve.
My vote is for the need to adjust (shorten) the rod that actuates the MC
 
Did you remove the check valves in the new master? You may have gotten a drum/ drum master from the rebuilder. I don't run a proportioning valve on my set up (88 master) and don't have a problem.
 

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