Pressure switch/guage (1 Viewer)

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My York is now blowin better than Junk's momma. :cheers:
So, what kinda pressure switches are you running on your york/sanden/whatever setups? Heard good things about the ARB pressure switch, can this be bought seperatly/what kind of fitting does it have?
I really don't want to use one of those large shop air compressor style switches as they don't seem like they would hold up all that well in an engine bay exposed to the crap mine is.
Anyone tried to rig an in-cab guage? I haven't been able to find an automotive air pressure guage. Will I have to rig a standard mechanical one and run a tube to the cab?
Do I have to oil through one of those bolts on the side, or can I just unbolt either the suction or output fitting on top and pour some in that way?
 
Oh yeah, one of the writeups mentions using a check valve for the good of the compressor, to keep it from starting under load. Is this necessary?
Graingerpart # 5X782 is the one mentioned in the writeup, does it (or any check valve) automatically let out the backpressure when the compressor stops pumping? Otherwise there wouldn't be much of a point, right?
 
Northern Tools sells all kinds of pressure and vaccuum gauges for trucks, tractors and construction equipment. I bet that you will find what you need there.

http://www.northerntool.com/ Check gauges - they have both dash mount and standing glycerin-filled pressure gauges for various ranges under $20.

Check their lighting, too, if you thought you couldn't afford to add a little brightness in the night. They have pressure valves, relief gauges, you name it...

Just a thought.


Mike S
 
The check valve should have a small fitting connected to the unloader on the pressure control switch. I use the large shop type you previously mentioned without problem. Got mine off of an old ragged out used up compressor that was going to the scrap pile. Still operating fine after years of abuse.
 
I called ARB and got one of their pressure switches. I think I paid $17 plus shipping.
The switch has 1/8" NPT fitting on the bottom and 2 spade connections on top. It comes on at 85 psi and off at 115 psi.

As for the gauge, I found one I really liked at Barnett perfromance. It is specificaly for air and looks similar to my other gauges.

You can add oil into either plug on the sides. There is a trick to checking the oil though. Check out the York document listed in the tech section.

It you haven't already, put a filter in line. My yorks have all put out significant amounts of oil. I have heard bad things about doing the modification of the oiling system in the york, but have no first hand experience with it.
 
I didn't have time yesterday to go to Northern, just Home Depot which has a decent enough selection of simple fittings. I'll probably check out Northern next weekend and what I can't get there I'll get from Grainger. Thanks for the heads up on their guages.
Brad- I was going to try the blow-by mod that Charlie wrote up in Tech this weekend as well, the compressor I'm using is a 9cfm that I got for free so its not a huge deal if it gets toasted (I was planning on eventually replacing it with a new 10 cfm when I get my setup finalized and functioning the way I like it.) Unless your positive the blow-by mod will kill the compressor.
Home depot didn't have any 1/8" NPT fittings or adapters, Brad I think you go to the same Northern I do (Cobb Parkway/41)? if so do they have any 1/8" fittings. I may end up making my own manifold and I'll just tap a 1/8" fitting if I do. Thanks guys.
 
I find home depot has more fittings that northern. Just go to the plumbing section, not tools or go to mcmaster.

BTW, Mcmaster also carries the aluminum stock for the manifold. I made mine out of 1 7/8" hexagonal aluminum and tapped it for what I needed.

I am not positive about the blow by fix. Give it a try, if you get yours to work well, I may try it also.
 
Where is Mcmaster? Website? Never heard of it before.
If I have time I'll try the blowby fix this weekend and let ya know how it goes.
Never thought to check the plumbing section. :doh:
Here's the guage I'm thinking:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=413316
Since its a back mount that means I could mount it in a plate mounted to the bottom of the dash and the air fitting is on the rear of the guage correct? Could I just use a 1/4" barbed fitting and run that small plastic airline to it?
Brad et al; does the ARB switch have provisions for the unloader like what Hammerhead described? If not then what did you do about a check valve?
 
I just found the Mcmaster-Carr site, :eek: lotsa cool stuff there. :cheers:
What length/temper/type of 1 7/8 hexagonal stock aluminum did you get Brad?
It sure isn't cheap, but the flexibility to put ports where you want them and add more ports later sure is nice.
 
I used the 2011, it has the best machinabliity. I ended up getting a 1 foot piece and splitting the cost between a couple of other buddies. my manifoold is 4" long with a holed drilled all the way through and 4 ports on each side.
 
I have been told, and it sounds reasonable, that with the yorks you dont have to worry about useing the check valve to unload the compressor like a traditional shop compressor. The yorks run at substantialy higher pressures in ac systems and don't unload when they click off. My pressure switch is one of the big ones by Weltrol (sp) and has a port to unload the compressor but I have never seen any problems not useing it. The compressor seems to start up fine at around 80 psi.
 
Here is a pic of the air manifold system I just finsihed on my 45truggy. For this project I made two manifolds: The lower manifold (black) is a high-pressure manifold that receives air directly from the York and includes the water/oil removal filter, a 130/150 psi pressure switch, relief valve, sure-grip fitting for line runing to the air tank (located in bed), in-cab air gauge and (not shown) sure-grip fitting running to the low-pressure manifold. This manifold and the tank will stay between 130 and 150 psi. I do not use a check valve. The low-pressure manifold (red) includes a pressure regulator that will drop the pressure down to 90 psi for the ARBs. It also includes the two ARB solenoids and an additional port for another in-cab air gauge reading the ARB line pressure. The two air gauges match the others in the dash and are Autometer Z-series units.
 
Good to hear Joe, especially since I don't think the ARB switch has provisions for a check valve. Also since I'm using a free compressor I don't need to worry about premature wear, I plan on replacing it with a new one once the setup is finalized anyway. I had been thinking the same thing, but wasn't sure if A/C systems had a check valve or not. Damn Brad they don't even list a foot on the site! Must have been $250! That is a good idea, I will call some buddies and post an add on the club site and see if anyone is thinking about doin a york. I would even drill and tap it for them.
 
Here is the p/n i got. it is 1.75.

88705K591 around $26 for 1 ft.
 
Thats a trick setup Medusa!
Where did you get your pressure switch, I like its parameters better than those of the ARB one, and its size and look better than the shop type ones, also where do you get that small clear hose and fittings from for the guages? So far I haven't been able to find it except in curled form for shop air hoses. I also really like your mounting plate, might have to rip it off if you don't mind :D
 
Mcmaster has that tubing as well.

p/n - 8359K11

It should work fine, but I have not ordered it yet.
 
[quote author=73lndcrsr link=board=1;threadid=6502;start=msg52991#msg52991 date=1066687438]
Here is the p/n i got. it is 1.75.

88705K591 around $26 for 1 ft x 1.75
[/quote]
Yep your right, when was pricing it through their interactive catalog is was waaay more expensive. Like $150 for a 6" stick. I might use two sequential blocks with a mini regulator in between with the first block at high pressure and the second at ARB pressure.
Thanks again all!
 
[quote author=73lndcrsr link=board=1;threadid=6502;start=msg52996#msg52996 date=1066688088]
Mcmaster has that tubing as well.

p/n - 8359K11

It should work fine, but I have not ordered it yet.
[/quote]
They've even got the compression fittings! (They don't have a tube to pipe adapter for that size tube BTW, their compression tube to pipe adapters start at 1/4" OD)
I was nearly jumping up and down when I first saw the Mcmaster site today! They have EVERYTHING! :D :cheers:
 
Oh yeah, how do you cut that aluminum stock? Will a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade work? I imagine that I'll have to smooth out the edges, etc.
 
I cut mine with a sawzall. it worked okay.
 

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