Preserve for Restro (1 Viewer)

[FJ Jerry 19]

I am wondering if there is a go-to for preserving metal (Frame, Engine, and Body) while waiting for the time and money to do a frame off.

I am currently replacing the radiator (Ha, Ha) and have progressed to taking off all the front body panels on the FJ40. With access to the engine bay and frame, I am in a serious de-grease/de-rust mode. I am wire-wheeling and sanding all the frame/rusty body parts in hopes to preserve it for a couple of years (hopefully) without making a bigger mess down the road. After a day or 2, I seem to get light surface rust forming on the frame and engine already.

I read a thread on boiled linseed oil and thought that sounded like it might work. Also, is a rust converter something to use on the frame? I could also prime and paint what I have access to.

If nothing else, I have loosened up the bolts for down the road.

Jerry

 

[1969FJ]

Eastwood is a company selling many items for what you are asking. They also have DIY videos and the FJ40 is actually pretty easy to do.

Eastwood Auto Restoration Supplies - Eastwood Auto

Shop at Eastwood today to find everything you need for your next do-it-yourself auto repair or restoration project. Find Eastwood tools, shop equipment, auto paints and other supplies that are the solution to your needs.

www.eastwood.com

 

[rainingagain]

I used to do a lot of paint and body work. The one thing that has stuck with me is don't touch anything that I don't plan on taking all the way. What I mean by that is don't remove the paint/bondo/rust/fiberglass/whatever from anywhere that I will not paint or coat with something that will be exposed to the elements.

If you are scraping and cleaning to the point that you can use some wax and grease remover and paint, then hit it with some POR-15 (frame) and ceramic paint (engine). Otherwise, coat it with some Fluid Film and then prep it when ready for paint.

Edit: I guess my point is, remove the dirt/grease/scaled rust, hit with Fluid Film, and no touchy until ready for paint. But that's just my opinion, which as we know...

 

[B y r o n]

Not used when doing a frame off but over the years as I've fixed or upgraded areas on my 40 I've used Rust-oleum Rust Reformer. I'd remove as much rust as possible then spray with Rust Reformer as a base coat before spraying with a top coat. It neutralizes any rust that couldn't be removed and seals exposed metal.

 

[Pierps]

Looks like you're in Fargo- do you drive the rig in the winter, on salty roads/etc? I know this seems obvious, but far and above the best thing you can do to preserve it is to only drive it when it's dry, and store the rig out of the weather.

If that's not possible, then +1 to @rainingagain. Clean, and hit all of the cavities with fluid film. If you drive on salty roads, wash the rig down thoroughly. Don't let mud stay inside the frame, on the rear sill, etc.

 

[sogncab]

Just don't drive it in the winter here. It's a terrible plan

 

[rainingagain]

Not used when doing a frame off but over the years as I've fixed or upgraded areas on my 40 I've used Rust-oleum Rust Reformer. I'd remove as much rust as possible then spray with Rust Reformer as a base coat before spraying with a top coat. It neutralizes any rust that couldn't be removed and seals exposed metal.

This has been my go to for years. It kind of stinks but it works. It's designed to have filler put over it, sandable primer, etc. Rust Mort™ | morttm | SEM Products - https://www.semproducts.com/product/rust-morttm/morttm