Pre-03 nav delete how-to (1 Viewer)

[AnthraxVX]

I was under the impression that a right hand drive bezel would work for my lx470 so I ordered one from overseas and now that I have it the wiring diagram is completely different. Has anyone had this issue or know a solution. Here is a picture of what my A harness looks like. Completely different than what the chart shows. The other 3 harnesses are different too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

View attachment 3878206

yeah it is definitely different, good news and bad news, good news is you have the connector and electricity doesnt care about the color, and you have the connector, but probably not the pins to re-pin it. Bad news is it makes it harder to confirm you are wiring the correct wire to the correct spot, if it were me, id go through and label each one of those with the known color before i did anything, then id go one wire at a time (as recommended in general) and re-wire. OR you could get the correct pins and re-pin but you would end up in the same spot you are now, so id just do what i just said and label those all with the known colors and begin wiring.

but on the other hand, maybe they didnt wire the center console the same? hmm, interesting actually. which center console did u get (3 knobs or digital)

if the center console is wired the same internally, then id also consider removing all pins and just place them in the spot corresponding with their color

 

[ryan25391]

yeah it is definitely different, good news and bad news, good news is you have the connector and electricity doesnt care about the color, and you have the connector, but probably not the pins to re-pin it. Bad news is it makes it harder to confirm you are wiring the correct wire to the correct spot, if it were me, id go through and label each one of those with the known color before i did anything, then id go one wire at a time (as recommended in general) and re-wire. OR you could get the correct pins and re-pin but you would end up in the same spot you are now, so id just do what i just said and label those all with the known colors and begin wiring.

but on the other hand, maybe they didnt wire the center console the same? hmm, interesting actually. which center console did u get (3 knobs or digital)

if the center console is wired the same internally, then id also consider removing all pins and just place them in the spot corresponding with their color

I got the one with the 3 knobs. Would there be a way to determine if the center console is wired the same internally? Here is the one I got

 

[AnthraxVX]

2 options i can think of, hook a coupla things up and test if those work , or find a wiring diagram from japanese version and see what each color is and correlate them to your colors

 

[ryan25391]

2 options i can think of, hook a coupla things up and test if those work , or find a wiring diagram from japanese version and see what each color is and correlate them to your colors

Looking at it again, not even the empty slots line up. On harness A there should be 6 open pins but on mine there are only 3 so I can't really even test it that way. I guess I'll have to look and see if I can find a Japanese diagram.

 

[Hulk]

Here are the wiring diagrams for the 2002. Note the only difference is the navigation into the speaker and the now deleted MFD controls. This is so your navigation can give you turn by turn directions. When you pull the navigation system you will lose your left speaker unless you bypass.

@TXSunDevil - I pulled my navigation unit under the passenger seat a few week ago. Just as you stated, I lost the left front speaker. What do I need to do in order to get the speaker working again? I'll be using the Metra 70-8113 to connect to the JBL amplifier.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I believe I posted a schematic. You just connect the two speaker wires together that were switched by the nav unit under the seat

 

[Hulk]

I believe I posted a schematic. You just connect the two speaker wires together that were switched by the nav unit under the seat

Thank you. I just found the wiring diagram. Much appreciated!

 

[Terry24]

For the nav delete on the pre 03 LX470, do I need the harness of the New 3 knob unit?

I did the Pre-03 Nav Delete on my 2002 LX about 3 years ago… maybe longer, can’t remember when…

This is the pinout I used and it worked flawlessly.

Much homage to the pioneers who compiled this information.

I am wondering if it make the job much easier if I find the harness with the New A/C Unit? I found an A/C unit but without a harness. The wiring on this pinout document look like I don't necessarily need the harness of the new unit? Can anyone tell if we need to find a new unit+harness or the new unit would be enough? Thank you

 

[Unrulykid]

For the nav delete on the pre 03 LX470, do I need the harness of the New 3 knob unit?

I am wondering if it make the job much easier if I find the harness with the New A/C Unit? I found an A/C unit but without a harness. The wiring on this pinout document look like I don't necessarily need the harness of the new unit? Can anyone tell if we need to find a new unit+harness or the new unit would be enough? Thank you

Yes, get the connectors (with 12” pigtails) with the new non-nav bezel… i’ll be honest with you, I cannot confirm that the NAV and non-NAV connectors are all the same. I’m pretty sure that some of them are different.

Some recommendations:

Use wire markers ( get wire marker books at Home Depot) to label EVERYTHING before you cut anything… label both ends of wires to be cut. Mark each wire with original connector number and position, i.e., G14… makes troubleshooting so much easier. Use a hi-lighter pen on the pinout document sheet at the completion of each wire change… Change 1 wire at a time… mark it on the sheet. Keeps you from getting lost. And keeps track that you have completed everything… at the end, safe off wires that are unnecessary.

There are numerous ground wires… you can ground them all together.

After completing all wiring changes, use Tesa tape to loom wiring into bundles for their new connector locations. 1 loom per connector… makes it look factory when you’re done, and the Tesa tape eliminates nuisance rattling.

 

[Terry24]

Thank you very much! Can anyone recommend a source for the non-nav bezel including connectors/pigtails? I am from Germany - unfortunately, our wreckers do not have these cars. All used parts websites here sell without the connectors. Any Suggestion or someone who gave up the plan of nav delete and selling the parts now?

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Does anyone know what the wire in slot B8 (which came from I3) goes to?

FYI for everyone reading this far, I used the pinout sheet posted below and found it was missing important wires. I'm not sure where it came from, but it does not include the wires for the antenna up/down switch (which go to pins D17 and D18), nor illumination (which goes to pins D10 and D11) in addition to B8 (hence my question). I think it's also missing a few wires for rear heat if your LC has it.

I used the sheet posted here to fix all these errors, but I can't tell what B8 does, so I can't test which wire it should be connected to (I of course cut all the wires at the factory harness well before I realized these problems)

DO NOT USE THIS PINOUT DIAGRAM:

This is the pre-03 Nav Delete master sheet that I used…


View attachment 3775585

You could also read through this thread…

Power Antenna wiring with new radio

Hello I searched through as many posts as I could find and did not get the answer. When installing a new pioneer radio can anyone tell me how do you get the power antenna to work there doesn’t seem to be anything to hook the blue wire up to coming out of the radio. I thought I saw somewhere...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Unrulykid]

Does anyone know what the wire in slot B8 (which came from I3) goes to?

FYI for everyone reading this far, I used the pinout sheet posted below and found it was missing important wires. I'm not sure where it came from, but it does not include the wires for the antenna up/down switch (which go to pins D17 and D18), nor illumination (which goes to pins D10 and D11) in addition to B8 (hence my question). I think it's also missing a few wires for rear heat if your LC has it.

I used the sheet posted here to fix all these errors, but I can't tell what B8 does, so I can't test which wire it should be connected to (I of course cut all the wires at the factory harness well before I realized these problems)

DO NOT USE THIS PINOUT DIAGRAM:

That was my error to upload that older pinout sheet… when I begin this conversion back in 2021, I read through this entire thread to date, and I downloaded the pin out sheets as I went through the thread. Fast-forward to this year, When someone asked a question regarding this in 2025, I accidentally grabbed the older pinout sheet rather than the updated sheet. My fault.

When I did my conversion, everything worked perfectly save for an issue with the rear AC control being intermittent. I discovered that the pigtail I had sourced for the A connector had an issue on pin 19. Intermittent contact… perhaps a slightly deformed connector, I’m not sure. To resolve this issue,I purchased a new A connector from the Toyota dealer and transferred all the pins onto the new connector. Problem solved.

Regarding your question about slot B8… is something not working?… I believe the B connector pertains to HVAC controls.
Does your application have knobs or digital controls? Rear heat? Or does it have rear automatic AC control?

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Other than B8, the only wires not connected on mine are those related to rear heat (which my LC doesn't have).

Now that i've got the illumination and antenna up/down wires identified and connected, I think everything is working properly.. I double checked the Rear HVAC and it seems to work, and the headliner controls in the cargo area seem to work as well. Should all be good?

Now I just need to figure out, is my newly dead battery related to this electrical work or is it a coincidence that my 4+ yr old battery just happened to give up in the middle of all of it.

 

[Unrulykid]

Other than B8, the only wires not connected on mine are those related to rear heat (which my LC doesn't have).

Now that i've got the illumination and antenna up/down wires identified and connected, I think everything is working properly.. I double checked the Rear HVAC and it seems to work, and the headliner controls in the cargo area seem to work as well. Should all be good?

Now I just need to figure out, is my newly dead battery related to this electrical work or is it a coincidence that my 4+ yr old battery just happened to give up in the middle of all of it.

Good to hear that all the Nav Delete stuff is working…

3-4 years is the average lifespan for lead acid battery mounted within the engine compartment. Heat is a killer. Our 2012 RX450h has the original 12v Panasonic battery inside under the rear deck… this battery is 13 years old and is still going strong, probably because it’s not in the hot environment of the engine bay.
If you keep the batteries charged, you can extend the lifespan a few more years. The battery ( Costco Interstate) in my LX is five years old and still showing lots of life. Once a week for the past 5 years, I put it on the CTEC charger/ maintainer overnight… and anytime the LX is going to sit unused for days or weeks at a time, on the charger/ maintainer. It seems to have made a difference in the longevity of this battery.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Soooo I’m having an issue where the clock is resetting every time I turn the car off, but not having that issue on the head unit. Any ideas?

Did you ever solve this? I realize now I'm having the same issue. I assume there must be an accessory 12v hooked up somewhere where a constant 12v needs to be?

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Did you ever solve this? I realize now I'm having the same issue. I assume there must be an accessory 12v hooked up somewhere where a constant 12v needs to be?

I cross checked the two wiring diagrams I used (mentioned above in post 1071) and the wires circled in red below are the only ones not connected... I don't have rear heat controls (tho I do have a heater under the driver seat), just rear AC... So, the only ones not connected that might matter are the ground from 8E or the random wire from 3I... I cant really figure out how either of these could cause my clock to reset everytime the truck turns off. All the other wires listed below are connected (I believe correctly).

I'm also surprised it seems like no one else has this problem?

 

[Unrulykid]

I cross checked the two wiring diagrams I used (mentioned above in post 1071) and the wires circled in red below are the only ones not connected... I don't have rear heat controls (tho I do have a heater under the driver seat), just rear AC... So, the only ones not connected that might matter are the ground from 8E or the random wire from 3I... I cant really figure out how either of these could cause my clock to reset everytime the truck turns off. All the other wires listed below are connected (I believe correctly).

I'm also surprised it seems like no one else has this problem?

View attachment 3949347

Maybe try grounding the 8E wire, and then cycle the ignition off to see if the clock holds time memory.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Maybe try grounding the 8E wire, and then cycle the ignition off to see if the clock holds time memory.

Yeah, thats my thought.. I am clearly an electrical novice, but I believe toyotas (older ones at least) use switched grounds, so this will be my first place to start. Heading out on a 2 week trip tho, so it will unfortunately have to wait a bit for a resolution.