Pre-03 nav delete how-to (8 Viewers)

[ADVNZ]

I look forward to your report. I noticed you were able to source that controller pretty quick. Do you have access to many junked cruisers over there? We would love to find a source for the 2003-2007 LC manual HVAC controllers. All of the units here were shipped with navigation and we can only source the parts new and they are very pricey. MUD has developed a post 03 conversion also. If you remove all of your old stuff that is no longer used you will be able to fund your new stereo.

Most were taken but they had 3 at the yard I went to - Active 4x4 in Auckland. The problem was the cost and making sure they could access the wiring loom to cut this for you. I paid $310 NZD for the lot (inc taxes) which at today's rates is approx $225 USD. Then you have shipping but I am happy to help anyone wanting to source these and get it over to you.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Most were taken but they had 3 at the yard I went to - Active 4x4 in Auckland. The problem was the cost and making sure they could access the wiring loom to cut this for you. I paid $310 NZD for the lot (inc taxes) which at today's rates is approx $225 USD. Then you have shipping but I am happy to help anyone wanting to source these and get it over to you.

Great. We seem to have a pretty decent supply of climate controls for the 98-02 now but the 03 and later without nav are impossible. @jerryb has been looking for locations to find them. The 98-02 are running $75-125USD shipped and a few extra bucks for the wires.

 

[jerryb]

we (mud) exhausted partsouk of most everything related.
NZ shipping might be a killer. But if someone could fine the rotary knob version, like in this video I'm sure it could be made to work. Having the connectors and some of the wires still attached would make it simple, might be without rear ac and heat.

I have not found anywhere to get used parts. I haven't spent much time searching on the knob version either.

 

[ADVNZ]

Hmm...the head unit install is a lot more challenging than indicated. We don't have access to the Metra Harness so I attempted to make one with RCA's and a soldering iron and no success.

I have power but not speaker connections.

Do I need to run independent speaker cable bypass to the amp or is there another RCA config I need to consider?

 

[TXSunDevil]

Did you already cut the Toyota stereo plugs? I looked and it appears the Metra 70-8112 is the harness you need. If you cannot get one you can find the diagram online. It should help you see where the wires go.

 

[TXSunDevil]

If anyone is looking for a 3 knob and wires. I just talked to this salvage yard on another matter and ordered some parts. They told me they just got a cruiser in this week and it still has the 3 knob in it. They also have the wiring too so you could get both.

dulaneyautopar7456-100764-sml-1

 

[outdoorsman]

I will give them a call

Thank you

 

[TXSunDevil]

I will give them a call

Thank you

No problem. They are in your area too.

 

[ADVNZ]

Did you already cut the Toyota stereo plugs? I looked and it appears the Metra 70-8112 is the harness you need. If you cannot get one you can find the diagram online. It should help you see where the wires go.

Thanks, I found this and will try manually wiring it in the morning

 

[ADVNZ]

Hi all,

Ok, all finished and the new head unit is installed. The head unit was without doubt the most difficult part of the install for me as we don't have the harnesses local in NZ and would need to shipped from overseas.

I then opted to have a professional installer put the unit in the car and figure out the wiring but I got a call 5 minutes after he arrived and he said "nope, not for me, you will need to do this one yourself" ha ha...

The challenge was knowing which wires lit up the stock AMP, so I put the old headunit back in (just the radio component) and then ran my multimetre over the terminals when the radio was turned on and off. This worked well and I could also find the ACC wires along with the light dimming cable. I used my Note 8 to take some photos and write some comments on the wires.

See the photos below:

But in short, I got it done and then used the diagram provided by TXSunDevil (sincere thank you again!!) as this enabled me to direct the colour coordination for the speaker cables.

Everything working great and the next upgrade (in the next few months) will be to change out the speakers for something better.

Very happy with this entire excercise. I would rate it in difficulty out of 10 (10 being the hardest) as a 5...it can be tedious, and you just need to prepare yourself, use the solder shrink connectors (don't activate them until you have tested all cabling), take your time and enjoy yourself.

Measure the voltage plugged into the unit with power on.

Many forums talk about the 22 pin plug as the primary source for this install but for my unit it was the 14 pin plug that did the job.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Thank you for following up. I am glad you were able to get it all up and running. Don't forget to sell your old items. You should be able to recover all of your money that you spent on this install.

 

[m3kachu]

forgive me, I found my answers!

 

[ADVNZ]

Do they just not get used at all? Do some of them get used on metra 70-8113 to use on a new head unit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Micah

Ignore them. Just make sure you don't cut any of the plugs off and work through the pinout wire by wire. Write the letter on each of the plugs above as these are all that will be referenced and used.

Once finished you can tuck the other plugs up behind the dash as there is plenty of space. Make sure you tape them up so they don't rattle.

Good luck, pretty straight forward mod to the car, just take your time and follow the numbering.

NOTE: Only the bottom two plugs will be used for the head unit.

 

[m3kachu]

Thank you so much! @ADVNZ

 

[ADVNZ]

Thank you so much! @ADVNZ

Always leave your original question up even when answer found...it will help others with the same question

Take some photos of yours and let us know if you encounter any problems.

 

[m3kachu]

Ok so I got it all wired up, looks terrible, as I didn't have much length on the pig tails to work with. Almost everything is working.

Not working:
Defrost (light doesn't illuminate)
Mirror defrost (light doesn't illuminate)
Rear hi/heat lo(can only get heat lo to illuminate)

My new knob/button panel doesn't look in the best shape. Maybe those buttons just didn't work?

Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[m3kachu]

All the panels I see here and on eBay don't have a 2 light button for rear hi/heat lo. Just looks like a button thay says rear with 1 light. So maybe that's it, I have the wrong button panel?

 

[TXSunDevil]

Do you have rear heat in the vehicle? Even though the rear controller shows red/blue doesn't mean you are equipped with a rear heater core. The defrost and mirror defrost share a ground on D22. Did you end up with any ground wires you didn't hook up? From what I have seen they make 2 controllers. One has the Rear AC button. That allows the rear AC to be operated by the back seat passenger. The other is the Rear Heat button. Most vehicles I have seen with the Rear Heat button have came out of the NE. The buttons are changeable.

 

[m3kachu]

Thank you for the reply @TXSunDevil

I am not sure I have rear heater core. Car was sold in San Francisco originally. Is there a way to check?

If I don't have rear heater core then I need the panel with just the rear control button, yeah?

As for d22 being not grounded, I'll check in the morning, when it's light, thanks!

 

[TXSunDevil]

Look on the controller you removed. Was there a rear AC button or a rear heat? I have never removed the buttons but they appear to just pop out. The Toyota part for the Rear AC button is 84661-60020. This only appears to be the cover not the switch. Without pulling the switches it would be hard to say how to make that one work if you do not have rear AC. Check the ground and see if the others come online.