power windows

PDoyle

PDoyle

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Oct 5, 2003
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Saratoga Lake, NY
It's getting a little cold here in the North East. Low 30's.
My power windows, at least driver side front, dosen't want to come back up. I've checked the rubber, all seems ok.
Is there a quick fix?
I realllllllly don't want to pull the door panel off.
 
Junk
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Will it come up at all?

They are very slow in the winter, but should move. If no movie then pull the panel and do the deed.
deal.gif
 
GXO

GXO

GXOR
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pulling the panel is the easy part.

windows aren't hard :banana:...don't fear them...just be sure to let them sniff your hand first.

:cheers:
 
PDoyle

PDoyle

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Thanks you guys, I feel much better now...
If I pull the panel off, what is next? Besides having a cold one...
 
GXO

GXO

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unscrew the screws in the armrest, door handle, etc

then pop that sucker loose!

carefully peel back the dust wrap....

then you get to clean and lube...if the window isn't moving at all something is up...usually it moves slowly.

STOP FOR STEP 6! :beer:

I would check for good connections, no gook causing electrical connection issues, etc.

After that I would clean and lube the window channel, the pivot points, etc and check on the motor to make sure it can still run...if it is dead...

email C-dan :cheers:
 
Riley

Riley

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How does the recessed door latch "cup thingy" come off?

My Camry has the same recessed door latch cup and last year when the power windows failed - I couldn't figure out how to get that thing off. I couldn't see any screws holding it on. Very frustrating.

Riley
 
S

Shortbus

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Youz experts may need to correct my info but......

Could it be the switch cluster? My rear/right window didn't want to roll back up, so I tried the switch on the RR door and it worked fine. Then I gave the switch cluster on the drivers door a little smack and must have knocked a dust ball loose. Hasn't acted up yet, and I haven't had the time to take it apart to see what's up.

Is it your drivers window?, or have you tried the individual switch on the window that's giving you trouble?
 
PDoyle

PDoyle

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The driver window went up real slow this morning. I tried the pass side, that worked fine. It seemed like the rubber was holding it or something like that. But, the rubber along the windows is fine.
I tried to pull the window up while holding the switch down. I don't reccommend doing that tho.
Could be the switch. It is getting colder, and I was thinking that was a big part of it.
Hmmm, should I spray the door switch?
 
GXO

GXO

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Rule out the switch...easy to do....yank it out of the driver's door and look for the ol blue corrosion gunk in there...if it is present, disassemble and remove said gunk.

as for the cup....pull lever out and look behind it...there will be a little phillips head looking back.
 
PDoyle

PDoyle

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Ok Dan, thanks. I think I'll look at the switch first. I tried the window later this afternoon. Seems to work ok. I think the cold had something to do with it. No drive threw this winter!!!!
 
S

Shortbus

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Not sure if any of you guys have used this stuff.....

Tri-Flow.
2827.gif


It's just about the slickest stuff you can find. When I raced karts, we used it on EVERYTHING. I even use it on the pocket doors in the house. It doesn't vaporize like WD40 does after a couple weeks. I think the Teflon helps it adhere better. Amazing stuff. One of these weekends, I'm gonna take the door panels off my cruiser and lube away.

The other product that I've used in window tracks with good success is called
Shin-Etsu. It's available thru your local Honda dealer. Expensive!! but good.
shin-etsu.jpg

It's a silicone based paste, which is curiously close to the consistency of Crisco. ;)
 
T Y L E R

T Y L E R

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Pat I can completely sympathize .... and funny you should mention the rubber ... because I would swear that in the cold the rubber literally sucks onto the window ; creating a near-infinite static coefficient *L* . Thats why when I approached this project last year I lubed the gears , the tracks , and I rain-x'd the outside 'and' inside of the glass . Wonder if the actual inner surface of the rubbers can be treated ??

I also concur with the folks that see a rate drop when more than one window is operated at once . So how do we address this voltage drop ?? Can someone with the electrical manual post the circuits for the windows etc , so we might work as a group to create some relay driven bypass , similar to the headlight upgrade ... :)

There's no reason us cold-wintered fellas should have to actually get 'out' of our 80's for our morning lattes !! ;) Shuttuppa your mouth Beo ! :flipoff2:

Cheers ,

Tyler -- Shopping for a walk-up-only latte support group tonite ... :'(

PS : Brad , thanx for the product info :cheers:
 
Beowulf

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Tyler,
I must be missing something. Instead of all this obsessing over getting the windows up and down, just install more curtains. Drive up to Starbucks, pull back the stylish mauve curtain keeping the chill out, speak your order clearly into the speaker/microphone, return the curtain, drive around to the window, pull back the curtain, pay the nice gay guy in the window the $4.02 for your carmel machiatto, say your thanks, return the curtain, and drive off.

What could be easier?

-B-
 
PDoyle

PDoyle

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Saratoga Lake, NY
94's didn't have curtains! Only 97's came with that option. Designers must have recruited an engineer that was smoken around that time period.- But a good idea all the same... for the drive- in movie theatre.
I can't do Starbucks...
I only drink Dunkin Donuts coffee! and ya gotta go inside to order. Cause they just can't get it right. So, that saves me!!!

Tyler, after greesing all the window parts, did it help? Are we the only ones that have the slow window problem. if so, it has to be the cold weather...
 
cruiserdan

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A cautionary foot note:


Do be careful with the glass after you remove the regulator. I replaced my left front window regulator a couple months back. I taped the glass in the raised position after disconnecting the regulator. The phone rang. I answered it. I came back to the vehicle and the glass was GONE. :eek: . It had poped loose from the tape and DROPPED into the door from full height. The glass did not shatter but the metal channel on the bottom put TWO nice big Fawlkin dents in the lower outer surface of the door (the only dents in the truck BTW) Boy, was I tubed....... :'(

D-
 
T Y L E R

T Y L E R

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Pat , I would think anyone that lives in northern climes would have slow-window issues . Actually cold weather period , regardless of °'s north ...

Beo doesn't appreciate this , because I'm not sure that he have consistently -30° C weather in the winter . And as fine as the winter curtains sounds , I have taken my drapes down for the winter ; as I miss the open-window flapping :'(

I'm still interested in trying to beef up the wiring .

Tyler

PS : Beo , ummm .. how come you seemed to know that the local Starbucks guys were gay ?? :flipoff2: :flipoff2: 'Cause you're bang on ..... haha . As it were , neither the Seattle or Starbuck coffee shops have driveup's , but I'm still fixated on speedier winter windows ...

PSS : Rick , if you're out there , can you peruse the electrical manual when you have a moment , and see if the window circuit can be bolstered somehow ? If anyone can find a way ... :cheers:
 
PDoyle

PDoyle

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I'll post some pics sometime...snow, just snow! Feet of it!
Ya, boosting window power...ya.....more power... I see fire..
ya...fire....
 
J

Jacknasty

Joined
Apr 15, 2003
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It hasn't gotten colder than 65 degrees here yet and my driver's side window is sticking bad. All other windows shoot up quickly, but mine needs a little persuasion in the mornings. Sometimes, it will come up an inch or two and I have to put it all the way down and try again (like giving it a running start)

If somebody figures out the problem, please let me know. It's king of embarassing driving around a cool vehicle, parking it and then not being able to roll the window up :-[
 
Scamper

Scamper

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I've got the slow roll too... had it for a couple of years now. It is bothersome when you're trying to pull away and it just sort of creeps up--kind of embarassing.

I'll have to pull that door panel off and take a look. I have this silicone grease I got years ago when working in a lab. It's pure silicone grease and is designed for use in a chem lab where being totally inert is important (it's called Dow Vacuum Grease because it is used on glass fittings to pull and hold a vacuum). That suff is wicked tenacious--if you get it on something, it just won't come off even if you use solvents like acetone. I plan to give that a try and see if it helps. A little dab might do me. ::)

Tom
 
Asiarider

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Then I am just lucky that I stay in tropical climate with only sunshine and my power windows work fine and fast. :cheers:

Mike
 

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