Powder Coating Frenzy!

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X2....have you ever seen the pic of the fan blade sticking through the hood?
Cooler, I have a 6 blade DD fanblade I will give you. I think you will need the spacer to run it in place of the Cuisinart blade.
GL

And PM me an addy if you want the fan.

Ed

Ed gave me his old 4 blade! Thanks ED! (One of mine blew up last summer and destroyed the radiator just before it punched the hood. You could see the rust on the part that had cracked before the actual disintegration).



I think they are neater if they stay the original orange-red.
 
That orange red paint was the hardest stuff to get off! I put the fan in the de-rust tank for 2 days and it only removed the edges. I had to sand blast it off so I could powder coat it!

I guess I could get some of those tire valve LED lights and put them on so you could see it spinning! :grinpimp:
 
Those are great. I bought a similar kit and had a freind who redid their kitchen and replaced the stove that was about 3 months old to begin with and the oven was never used. I have not fired it up yet but am planning to in the near future.
 
I'm planning on going with these guys system. I like the idea of a varible adjustment. I heard it makes it easier to get into the small spaces.

http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/hvpc.html

Much nicer system than my EastWood. I like the foot switch (though I keep my hand switch taped closed :idea: ) and the adjustable voltage. That feature would help with the angular parts on the Cruiser. That might be what I upgrade to if this one quits anytime soon.
 
Thanks for the info on the Eastwood system Coolerman.

I bought one about a year ago but I have not had the chance to use it yet.

Did you find any good web sites that had any good powdercoat tips?
 
Wow, those pieces look fantastic!

Can't wait to see it come together, the devil is in the details.

Rezarf <><
 
Thanks for the info on the Eastwood system Coolerman.

I bought one about a year ago but I have not had the chance to use it yet.

Did you find any good web sites that had any good powdercoat tips?

The Caswell site mentioned above has a good forum like this one where you can get lots of tips and see photo's of the members coating projects. Just don't get carried away with the new 'Black Lite' colors like this guy.... :rolleyes:
almost.webp
 
Once you figure out the air pressure it covers very well. I don't pay too much attention to their suggestion of 8 PSI. It will vary from 3-12 depending on several things like pressure in the tank. I set it low enough to get a good cloud and NOT blow any powder off the part.

My biggest mistake was not keeping enough powder in the cup. There needs to be at least 1.5" in the cup at all times to get a good 'cloud'.

Black is a hard color to get a good even coat as it's hard to see how thick it is. I learned to have BRIGHT light on my powder coating stand.

Pre-bake ALL thick cast iron or aluminum parts for 30 minutes! Then wipe the part down after it has cooled with acetone until the rag shows NO BLACK marks! If you don't do this the part will out gas causing bubbles in the coat. The turn signal switch housing on mine turned out bad even though I baked it once, sandblasted it, baked it again then wiped it down with acetone. I found on the web where it mentioned that some aluminum parts just cannot be coated due to out gassing.

Another mistake I made was assuming that all powders have the same bake schedule. I over cooked a few parts (turns the color several shades darker) before I realized this. Make sure to follow the specs on the powder NOT the gun! Polyester powders take 10 minutes @400 degrees after flow out where epoxy may take 20 minutes after flow.

Uh lets see, parts with a lot of angles are hard to coat evenly. An example is the clutch/brake pedal assembly housing and the air filter housing. I disassembled them, de-rusted them, sand blasted them, then learned that it was almost impossible to get the powder into the deep crevices. :mad: I had to use some black epoxy paint to finish some parts up!
They told us that a good way to powdercoat tough aluminum parts is to bring them to a higher temperature when cleaning them, that way when you coat them at the lower temperature, you shouldn't have any volatiles that will outgas at the lower temperature left. it's supposed to help a lot, but not cure the problem.
 
Yep, forgot that part! If the powder calls for 400 degrees then use 450-500 when out gassing the part.

Here is another piece I did last week. I media blasted it (pic #1), baked it twice at 450, then used a high temp silver for coat #1 to seal the surface. I let it cool to about 150 degrees then coated it with a powder from Rosey's called Xtreme Chrome (pic#2). Came out pretty good! :cool:
BlastedIntake.webp
IntakeChrome.webp
 

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