Hello, I'm new to the forum (long time lurker) and am looking for a new project vehicle. I am looking for a decent BJ40/42 to restore as a daily driver. Has anyone tried powder coating body panels and tub? I am also curious if it is better to clear powder afterwards. (I believe ICON does it) I have access to a large commercial oven so frame and tub size isn't an issue. Thanks for any advise.
Powder Coated Body Questions
- Thread starter riverrock
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I know of one guy in the California Central Valley that dissassembled his rig and completely powder coated it. Gilbert is his name and he lives in the Lemore/Hanford area.
Hudyhue probably has some picture of it.
I know of one guy in the California Central Valley that dissassembled his rig and completely powder coated it. Gilbert is his name and he lives in the Lemore/Hanford area.
Hudyhue probably has some picture of it.
you cant get the powderkote to flow even. also you cant have any bondo or anything else on it has to be all metal. i thought of doing it. i have a friend who did the frame and everything else came out nice. plus repairs later will be hard
I've seen it done. It looks good. You won't be able to march it for a patch down the road though.
I powdercoated my entire tub and body parts and I love it when I accidentally drop a tool on the fender and don't see a mark. I will tell you that you should definitely have a clear coat put on with the powder as I did not and the color faded dramatically while in the sun for a couple of weeks. A buddy of mine that I convinced to do the same on his 40 used the clear and has had no problems what so ever. He also took a peice into the automotive paint store here in town and had them spectrograph it to develop a color that matched. Which he used to paint his body with as he did not do a frame off as I did. The result is really awesome. I'll post some pics. Also you'll want to put a fresh coat of wax on everything as soon as you get the parts back just for extra insurance. With regards to a clean ripple free look, you probably won't get it. As mentioned above, you can't have any bondo or body filler due to the heat causing it to deform and or melt. So make sure you clean up your seams or weld them like I did. Also you'll want to bake the parts after blasting but before powdercoating in order to release any oils or glues and such so that they don't show up as the powder is adhereing. Not Pretty. Extra time but well worth it. You wouldn't believe what comes how of the cracks and seams.
Powdercoat
Here is a picture of my buddy's 40 where he painted the tub to match all the body parts that were powdercoated. There is a slight difference(barely noticeable in most lighting). Mine is the picture attached to my handle.
Here is a picture of my buddy's 40 where he painted the tub to match all the body parts that were powdercoated. There is a slight difference(barely noticeable in most lighting). Mine is the picture attached to my handle.
All the parts including hood, doors, fenders, hard top, and accessory pieces were powdercoated. Only the tub was painted by my friend. So you can see that the contrast is extremely minimal.
i did some select pieces on mine as well. has been 2 summers with no fading no wax,no clearcoat, the sun is probably not as hot as down south and has stood up pretty good to lots of tree branches. X2 no bondo and X2 that the finish is not perfect. take the time and weld up the holes and flaws i kinda wish i had.
Powdercoated 40
Here are a few of mine a little closer.
Here are a few of mine a little closer.
I have powdercoated a lot of different things with a large variation in size and shape so please feel free to contact me with any questions you might have.
there are high temp bondos out there like high temp lab metal
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Powder Coating Body
I plan on using a material called epo-strong for any body work. I've used lab metal too and have noticed it has a tendency to show signs of overbaking on large heavier parts that require long oven time. If I get a wild enough hair I'll do the tub and all.
I plan on using a material called epo-strong for any body work. I've used lab metal too and have noticed it has a tendency to show signs of overbaking on large heavier parts that require long oven time. If I get a wild enough hair I'll do the tub and all.
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That grey rig is the triple bomb!!! I am about to get my rig painted and that is exactly how I want the finished product to look. No plans on powdercoating just a couple coats of that grey over a Rust Bullet base with a nice coat of clear and lots of waxy TLC. Did your buddy ever get a paint code to start with, I realize that he had to get it analyzed at the end. I'd love to get the color code if it is available.
Where are you getting epo-strong... Can't find anyplace online to buy it.
heres
i painted the body much easier to take care of but the frame was powderkoted looks good also. body has that nice shinny look cant get that with powderkote
i painted the body much easier to take care of but the frame was powderkoted looks good also. body has that nice shinny look cant get that with powderkote
I just powdered an entire 40. Most powders are easily matched with touch up paint. Powdercoat, afterall,
is merely a polyurethane or polyester coating. Polyurethanes are also available in paint form. Cardinal
industries offers color matched touch up paint for most of their common colors. It is no less difficult to notice than using touch up on a nice paint job. Stay away from Epoxy powders, they are not UV stable and will fade in the sun. Light bondo seems to have no trouble surviving the oven. Heavy patches may curl up (3/16" thick or more). If the person applying it knows what they're doing it flows better and more even than anything but the best paint jobs. Twenty pounds of powder will do a forty, inside and out. That's about 100.00 to 150.00 in materials depending on the color ( assuming you don't want any
"candy" colors )
lab metal available here:
Absolute Powder Coating
is merely a polyurethane or polyester coating. Polyurethanes are also available in paint form. Cardinal
industries offers color matched touch up paint for most of their common colors. It is no less difficult to notice than using touch up on a nice paint job. Stay away from Epoxy powders, they are not UV stable and will fade in the sun. Light bondo seems to have no trouble surviving the oven. Heavy patches may curl up (3/16" thick or more). If the person applying it knows what they're doing it flows better and more even than anything but the best paint jobs. Twenty pounds of powder will do a forty, inside and out. That's about 100.00 to 150.00 in materials depending on the color ( assuming you don't want any
"candy" colors )
lab metal available here:
Absolute Powder Coating
the powder is 10.00 a pound from cardinal no matter what color plus the guy who does it for me thats all he charges me for powder, even the candys. so if they charge extra that just profiet. just call cardnil or look it up they will tell you is all the same
hey there. Yea you can powdercoat body panels. You primer, base and clear just like paint and the body has to be completely bare.
Ive seen the Icon up close and i can garantee you it isnt cleared its just a flat rough powder they use, its very nice though. The only problem with this is if you need body work done you are going to either have mad panel beater skills or the body should be in perfect condition. I have heard of fillers that will withstand strong heat, and thats probably the best route to go.
Powdercoating can look as nice as paint if not better and lay pretty evenly if you know what your doing. I have proof of that but it is because i used a base/clear. If you do a bc/cc that is uv resistant like others have mentioned it should be easy for a skilled painter to match. I personally would go for it!You can even wetsand it as my powdercoater did for some show jobs he had ( vintage motorcycle frames).
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the blue one is powder coated...
