Post your wheeling damage pics (10 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Anyone know why or how this might have happened? Is this little arm’s bushings supposed to be pressed in?

I just found a spot with service. We just finished up Muddy Creek Trail, about 1.5 hours outside of Moab, near Goblin Valley. Camping here as we speak.

Finding a break in the shade where the kids could get out and play for a bit I something funny looking under the front end of my rig. Something hanging that shouldn’t be.

View attachment 3140674
Yes the bushing should be pressed in. Looks like you need a new drivers side sway bar end link. You might be able to force it back in but I suspect it’ll come back out, most likely the rubber degraded. The part is <$100, use ratchet straps to realign the KDSS arm into place
 
Anyone know why or how this might have happened? Is this little arm’s bushings supposed to be pressed in?

I just found a spot with service. We just finished up Muddy Creek Trail, about 1.5 hours outside of Moab, near Goblin Valley. Camping here as we speak.

Finding a break in the shade where the kids could get out and play for a bit I something funny looking under the front end of my rig. Something hanging that shouldn’t be.

View attachment 3140674

I'm surprised it popped out like that? Do you have KDSS relocation?

OEM bushings are usually bonded, so this tore out. Usually there's a backing washer that would still keep links from separating even if the rubber completely fails.
 
As a quick trail repair before getting a new bushing and washer, I would take the bushing apart and try to move that washer to the other side of the bushing and get the bushing back in place. I would also remove the end link from the LCA and attach the bushing to the end link first and then try to get the end link into the LCA again. Might be easier that way. When doing suspension work, I had to use a crow bar to get mine seated again. You also might wish to open your KDSS valve with a 5mm allen key by 3 turns while you're working on it and then tighten them up again when you're done. Do you have tools with you? Any progress on it since you posted last night?
 
Last edited:
Hit some trails over the weekend and got the Headlight Malfunction - Visit Dealer message. This happened around 2 years ago on another trail. The headlight level control arm sensor wiring harness in the rear got damaged. Had to solder wires back together. Well, It happened again. I'm thinking the suspension, upper control arm maybe, compressed against and damaged the wiring harness.


IMG_1625.jpeg



Notice the spot to the right free of dirt.

IMG_1631.jpeg


There are three wires for the sensor. Added 4-5" wire extension to each wire, repaired and soldered. I wanted to re-route the harness to avoid this happening for the third time.

IMG_1630.jpeg


BTW - My headlight sensor arm was upgraded for my lift as I was getting hit with high beams from oncoming drivers. There are other posts about it. The upgrade solved that problem.
 
Gave the truck a good wash today to get all the dust and mud off from the weekend trails / Fall Crawl. Got the Rupes Bigfoot out and polished out a lot of pin stripes.

Found some minor dings.

Noticed the Hi-Lift jack holder on the Slee bumper was bent upwards. That @sleeoffroad bumper is solid and took some big hits. Glad I have it.

IMG_1638.jpeg

IMG_1639.jpeg


I'm replacing that mount with the Slee ARB jack mount anyway.

My Bud Built sliders also took a good hit. Had that lower plastic moulding replaced before and it got scraped up. Used a rattle can to touch up the sliders and wheels.

IMG_1640.jpeg


IMG_1641.jpeg


I think a Bud Build skid also got pushed in a bit. I plan to drop the skids in the next week or two to spray some Woolwax in preparation for winter road treatments and will check it out.
 
Last edited:
Moab has a history of crunching 200 series bumpers. I think it's safe to say that 25% of Slee and Dissent's rear bumper sales come from Moab trips.
Hmmm, maybe they need an on-site rep. . . 🤔😸
How to we proceed from here @sleeoffroad @Dissent ? I've got a nearly blank slate of a 120 to work with. . .😈
1667148496532.png
 
Is your 200 still stock? Impressed that is the only wheeling damage if so. Top of the World was rowdy on a motorcycle. Can't imagine it in a stock 200.

Edit: And hello to a fellow Boise 200! :)

Definitely not stock. I need to update my sig. Recently put on a 2-2.5" lift with Kings, 34" tires and sliders. I've done TotW before in a 4Runner and the trail is certainly no joke and I think only gets harder each year. The 4Runner actually did quite a better with a rear locker and a-trac compared to the LC. It also had higher clearances and better approach and departure angle. I definitely banged the plastic bits a lot more on the LC and also got hung up on my rear diff and banged the A-arms a few times too. The bumper damage came from the very last obstacle (or first obstacle going up) on the way down. This is where the LC's worse departure angle reared its head. I didn't have an issue with approach angle this trip.
 
Gave the truck a good wash today to get all the dust and mud off from the weekend trails / Fall Crawl. Got the Rupes Bigfoot out and polished out a lot of pin stripes.

Found some minor dings.

Noticed the Hi-Lift jack holder on the Slee bumper was bent upwards. That @sleeoffroad bumper is solid and took some big hits. Glad I have it.

View attachment 3150635
View attachment 3150636

I'm replacing that mount with the Slee ARB jack mount anyway.

My Bud Built sliders also took a good hit. Had that lower plastic moulding replaced before and it got scraped up. Used a rattle can to touch up the sliders and wheels.

View attachment 3150637

View attachment 3150638

I think a Bud Build skid also got pushed in a bit. I plan to drop the skids in the next week or two to spray some Woolwax in preparation for winter road treatments and will check it out.
That time of year again to apply some protectant for the upcoming winter road treatment crap.

Removed front skids and confirmed the mid aluminum skid is indeed bent. I recently replaced the Bud Built aluminum engine skid with stainless steel version. It held up fine considering the scrapes on it. Skids did their job and no need to replace this one as it still fits.

IMG_1672.jpeg
IMG_1673.jpeg
IMG_1674.jpeg
IMG_1675.jpeg


Getting ready to start spraying some Corrosion Free.

IMG_1676.jpeg
 
That time of year again to apply some protectant for the upcoming winter road treatment crap.

Removed front skids and confirmed the mid aluminum skid is indeed bent. I recently replaced the Bud Built aluminum engine skid with stainless steel version. It held up fine considering the scrapes on it. Skids did their job and no need to replace this one as it still fits.

View attachment 3159616View attachment 3159617View attachment 3159618View attachment 3159619

Getting ready to start spraying some Corrosion Free.

View attachment 3159625
My steel one has the same bend as your aluminum one
 
Apparently BudBuilt rear shock armor is in my future. Here are the ARB Old Man Emu rear shock guards after a weekend on the trails. They did their job, but kind of looking like a one time use type of product...

IMG_9092.jpeg

IMG_9097.jpeg

IMG_9090.jpeg
 
Last edited:
And, in case anyone was wondering what raw steel skids look like after two weeks on a truck, here you go. Pulled them off today to wire brush and paint. Had to put 2 of my 5 skids on raw to hit the trails two weeks ago. Bud said no issue; just brush, treat and paint afterwords. I think they'll clean up easy and should be an easy prep and paint:

IMG_9096.jpeg

IMG_9095.jpeg


IMG_9098.jpeg
 
I just realized I need to follow up on my last damage report. But for now, I thought I would share my damage from last weekend.

This should drop you right where I broke and what we did to get off the trail.
 
Fasc
I just realized I need to follow up on my last damage report. But for now, I thought I would share my damage from last weekend.

This should drop you right where I broke and what we did to get off the trail.

Fascinating . Thanks for sharing . So you weren’t on the gas much if at all, right? And no wheel spin . . .
 
Great job pushing the envelop. Every time I see a 200-series eat a CV, it's in full droop with really not so much power that it would be expected. I know we generally don't use diff drops but I'm starting to think those with really long droop travel on the front may warrant a diff drop? Caster and alignment play into this as well but I don't have a grasp on what is too much yet.
 
Fasc

Fascinating . Thanks for sharing . So you weren’t on the gas much if at all, right? And no wheel spin . . .
I don't think I was spinning or on the gas much at all when it happened I also wasn't cranked hard to one side. Every time I've broken a birf in the past, it's because I was turned hard or spinning. Not the case here so it makes me wonder.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom