Check partsouq or one of the toyota parts websites, but IIRC the front is maybe $250? It costs more to have it painted to match
Media Post your wheeling damage pics
- Thread starter JBHorne
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I have one of the 180 degree models - the previous generation of the one I'll link below. I also have the 140 degree model in my other car.
They are good, simple devices. Doesn't take much power. You can use one of those all-in-one fuse box piggy back kits to run USB power up to your mounting location. I don't know about the quality of the app, because how I review videos / events is pulling the SD card and plugging it into my laptop. The file sizes roll over often, so you get about a minute of play back in each individual file. It makes for an easy editing situation, because even loading the files off a SD card it's quick to get the data to your editor. The downside is a longer event, you'll have to use an editor (windows movie maker ((now photos)) can do it, which is free) to stack multiple videos together.
"Garmin Dash Cam 66w" is the modern version of what I have: Garmin Dash Cam 66W | Dash Cam - https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/661787/pn/010-02231-05
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I have been debating the aluminum vs Steel for the the front and engine. Definitely going to go SS and then aluminum for the rest of the skids after seeing your results. Good to see those skids earning their keep, I can only imagine what the result would have been with stock skids.
I have aluminum front, and SS engine skids (based on @Taco2Cruiser recommendation), both uncoated. After about 6 months, I had to drop the front skid, and I noticed what looked like a galvanic reaction at the flange where they overlap. The aluminum was staring to look "crusty" and pitted along this face. So, I put a strip of peel-and-stick butyl flashing tape ("Protecto Wrap") on this edge to keep them sealed but separated. I had the filter access panel off again yesterday, and the tape still looks great.
Pitted face:
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Yeah, Obviously the Aluminum is going to take a hit better than a drag, but I suppose to some extent any hit is going to have a drag element to it. As far as I'm concerned, the aluminum did its job just fine, it just looks worse for wear. The bigger question in my mind is how the fasteners would have held up if that exact same hit had been directly across one of those hex heads. Either way, I consider myself as protected as possible and if I manage to destroy an aluminum front, I'll replace it maybe with SS, but this incident has done nothing to sway me against aluminum.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
afgman786
SILVER Star
If you plan on playing in rocks a good bit, you might want to flip your game plan of aluminum up front and steel the rest. If you know you'll drag on rocks the steel is what you want as it doesn't gouge like aluminum will. I've got full steel and if I didn't the 200 wouldn't have made it thru some of the trails I have without serious costs. I've bent the crap out of the gas tank skid, if it was factory I'd probably tore the tank open, and the rest have dings and scratches but nothing is too bent, and I'm seriously impressed! Gas tank skid is in the worst since its a flat piece and doesn't have as much support to spread the load the way the other skids do.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I am still trying to nail down my skid setup. Goal is to keep weight down so all aluminum was the initial easy solution.
Seeing how severe the galling can get after a good couple hits is concerning especially if the same area of the skid is hit repeatedly. This has me now swaying towards SS.
Being that a set of aluminum BB skids weigh almost half that of the SS is real tempting though. Hearing all these anecdotal stories is great. The more I hear these types of experiences it makes me want to do full set of SS..... I can definitely see how the comparatively low riding 200 series would drag / get hung up. Back to the drawing board lol.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I wouldn't overthink it. A full set of BudBuilt skids in aluminum would be a massive upgrade over stock and still is a significant upgrade over even the ARB skids. I would call Rob at BudBuilt and describe your needs. He will get you squared away with the right combination of strength and weight.
nalabama
SILVER Star
For my 2011, front bumper cover $169, rear $186.28. Shipping is $1970.02 though. This is at Partsouq. Rock Auto, $281 plus $150 shipping by RL for the rear bumper cover, front cover was out of stock. Nearest online dealer (42 mile round trip) $247 including tax for front cover, rear cover $278 with tax.
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Spent some time in Moab over the past couple days.
The thin sheet metal plate Ironman sends out with their bumpers to cover the gap between bumper and the skids, is pretty much useless against anything. Not really a skid plate. Fins and things scraped the rear up a little the first day but the rest of the damage came from Kane’s creek canyon today. Sliders and skids took a beating but look great still. Now I just need my dissent rear to come in!
Played in mud. Killed my alternator
afgman786
SILVER Star
And now you know why the forum is named what it is..
Ran Holcomb Creek in Big bear California Sunday blew a CV. I did 80% percent of the trail got past the harder section but lost the CV in the easier part of trail. Had the CDL on and limped it down the trail to get towed. Took me about 2 hrs to fix it today. Oh and I popped a bead luckily it didn’t pop that bad and one of my buddy had a co2 tank and it just filled it right up. All in all it was long but fun day wheeling.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Looks like you had a great time until the CV went, nice shots! That’s a gnarly the rock garden. Your break looks very similar to when my driver CV busted. What led to it giving out? I believe Mine was the result of excessive wheels spin on a steep rocky incline.
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What tire pressure were you at when the bead blew?
Did you pull the CV shaft out and disconnect the front driveshaft, or just lock the CDL and deal with the clanking of the CV shaft?
Actually I don’t know why it went out I have a video of it but don’t want to put on you tube to post it here, it actually popped here,
I was at 17-18 , I actually just got the tires 285/75/17 a week ago I used to have c rated but I blew 2 tires out on previous trails, I think the 200 is too heavy for C rated, this time I got the insurance at American tire so anything happens I get a free tire, but instead of it blowing out the tire the bead just popped, I was actually going to try 15 psi but I needed more clearance, this Trail has 5 rock gardens on it. It’s one of the knarlest trail in big bear arguably the worse, it’s this one and John Bull, my buddies don’t suggest me tot try John Bull till I get lockers.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
17-18 psi doesn’t seem too low, I am surprised you popped a bead at that PSI. I wonder if the rock warrior’s wheel width plays a role in this at 8”. Does anyone know if a Lt285/75r17 is better suited for a wider wheel like 8.5” or 9”?
Good question , and technically I’m running them with spacers so if you planned on running this size tire wouldn’t it be better to run a wheel with the correct offset
That’s what I was wondering
