Post your wheeling damage pics (11 Viewers)

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No problem. Happy to answer questions. The flares are strictly cosmetic. I didn't need to trim away any metal. I didn't mind the look of my tires sticking out past the body but these small flares flush up perfectly with the edge of the tire. The rear tire can still tuck into the rear fender well without any rubbing.

What supplier did you use for your TE37s? Looks fantastic.
 
Factory steps ate it this weekend. ARB replacements are on the way

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Wow. I think it's the first time I've seen Volks on a SUV. Well, at least you know they'll be plenty strong! How are you liking the LX offroad? I'm still torn between the LC vs LX.

Sorry I just saw this! I like offroading the LX a lot. But to be honest if I had to do it all again I'd probably go with the LC. There's just a lot more aftermarket support for the Land Cruiser. You'd think a lot of LC parts would carry over to the LX but it's more complicated than that. Upgrading suspension will be a pain since the AHC on the LX is integrated into the cars systems pretty deeply. Also the plumbing for all the AHC components sit along the frame so using LC rock sliders won't work. Another thing I read was that the swing out rear bumpers made for the LC won't bold right up because there's other things in the way that the LX has that the LC doesn't have.
 
Sorry I just saw this! I like offroading the LX a lot. But to be honest if I had to do it all again I'd probably go with the LC. There's just a lot more aftermarket support for the Land Cruiser. You'd think a lot of LC parts would carry over to the LX but it's more complicated than that. Upgrading suspension will be a pain since the AHC on the LX is integrated into the cars systems pretty deeply. Also the plumbing for all the AHC components sit along the frame so using LC rock sliders won't work. Another thing I read was that the swing out rear bumpers made for the LC won't bold right up because there's other things in the way that the LX has that the LC doesn't have.

Did you see the thread recently created by another member here?

LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!)

He adjusted the sensors so that you gain about 1.25" of height in all modes. I'm thinking of doing this.
 
Sorry I just saw this! I like offroading the LX a lot. But to be honest if I had to do it all again I'd probably go with the LC. There's just a lot more aftermarket support for the Land Cruiser. You'd think a lot of LC parts would carry over to the LX but it's more complicated than that. Upgrading suspension will be a pain since the AHC on the LX is integrated into the cars systems pretty deeply. Also the plumbing for all the AHC components sit along the frame so using LC rock sliders won't work. Another thing I read was that the swing out rear bumpers made for the LC won't bold right up because there's other things in the way that the LX has that the LC doesn't have.

Re swing out rear bumper & sliders:

You'll be happy to know that Slee Off-road is getting close to release of their rear bumper, and they are using an LX570 as the design truck. The bumper is SWEET. It gets better: They are also building sliders for the LX. Availability date is unknown...but they currently have BOTH on their shop truck 570...so things are looking up. ;)
 
Re swing out rear bumper & sliders:

You'll be happy to know that Slee Off-road is getting close to release of their rear bumper, and they are using an LX570 as the design truck. The bumper is SWEET. It gets better: They are also building sliders for the LX. Availability date is unknown...but they currently have BOTH on their shop truck 570...so things are looking up. ;)

Thanks for the update! I've also been following the Slee 570 build also and have emailed them about it! Can't wait for them to come on the market!
 
Did you see the thread recently created by another member here?

LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!)

He adjusted the sensors so that you gain about 1.25" of height in all modes. I'm thinking of doing this.

Thanks for the link! I thought about doing this but a couple of my mechanic friends were against this idea. They said it would add extra stress to the AHC and will make it prone to early failure. I'll read through the thread though to see what Mud members have to say and what their experiences were like.
 
Thanks for the link! I thought about doing this but a couple of my mechanic friends were against this idea. They said it would add extra stress to the AHC and will make it prone to early failure. I'll read through the thread though to see what Mud members have to say and what their experiences were like.

I'd take the comments from your mechanic friends with a grain of salt. AHC has proven incredibly capable and durable on the 100-series. This is also true when augmented/modified correctly for heavier loads. Few failures at less than 200k miles. You won't find that kind of durability from 3rd party components...not even close. It's the people who don't understand AHC and load it up with armor and such, without proper support, that have issues (not necessarily failures). Heck, we know that the LC standard suspension won't do those kinds of loads without mods either. If you look at the Australian boards, there are individuals who go out of their way to keep AHC with heavy loads, because it does what nothing else will in mixed use and washboards. It's effectively a dynamic remote reservoir shock system with Toyota levels of reliability.

The 200-series should prove to be no less durable and capable. There's been practically no cases of 200-series AHC failure mentioned on the boards. While plenty of KDSS (albeit corrosion) and 3rd party shock issues.
 
I'd take the comments from your mechanic friends with a grain of salt. AHC has proven incredibly capable and durable on the 100-series. This is also true when augmented/modified correctly for heavier loads. Few failures at less than 200k miles. You won't find that kind of durability from 3rd party components...not even close. It's the people who don't understand AHC and load it up with armor and such, without proper support, that have issues (not necessarily failures). Heck, we know that the LC standard suspension won't do those kinds of loads without mods either. If you look at the Australian boards, there are individuals who go out of their way to keep AHC with heavy loads, because it does what nothing else will in mixed use and washboards. It's effectively a dynamic remote reservoir shock system with Toyota levels of reliability.

The 200-series should prove to be no less durable and capable. There's been practically no cases of 200-series AHC failure mentioned on the boards. While plenty of KDSS (albeit corrosion) and 3rd party shock issues.

Can I get an amen
 
I'd take the comments from your mechanic friends with a grain of salt. AHC has proven incredibly capable and durable on the 100-series. This is also true when augmented/modified correctly for heavier loads. Few failures at less than 200k miles. You won't find that kind of durability from 3rd party components...not even close. It's the people who don't understand AHC and load it up with armor and such, without proper support, that have issues (not necessarily failures). Heck, we know that the LC standard suspension won't do those kinds of loads without mods either. If you look at the Australian boards, there are individuals who go out of their way to keep AHC with heavy loads, because it does what nothing else will in mixed use and washboards. It's effectively a dynamic remote reservoir shock system with Toyota levels of reliability.

The 200-series should prove to be no less durable and capable. There's been practically no cases of 200-series AHC failure mentioned on the boards. While plenty of KDSS (albeit corrosion) and 3rd party shock issues.


Thanks for the insight! I'll read up on it on the Australian boards also. Any specific forums you recommend?
 
Are they really an offset of +0????

Can you show photos of the front...with wheels turned? I would think they'd be rubbing BADLY unless very small, or stock 31"?
They look more like a +25 imho.....
 
Got stuck in some snow today... snapped my winch line. Bent a new part of my front bumper (left of fairlead) due to the winching angle and poor fairlead location. Got free eventually, after tying the winch line back together and some other MacGyver-esque activities. Good times!
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I believe it was the rubbing over time that led to the failure of the line. I'm pretty disappointed with the design and I plan to talk to Slee about my options to move the fairlead to the front of the bumper.
 
Did the line fail due to rubbing against the bumper or was it just overpowered? Looks like it rubbed.

Looks like a roller fairlead is the solution

I was wondering the same thing about cause.
Regarding switching to a roller... I could be wrong, but I didn't think you'd want a roller fairlead with synthetic...and assumed that synthetic might be prone to flattening too much so that it slips between two rollers in a corner. What say you, winch gurus? I've only ever had cable winch line...

I'll be making a decision on winches/line soon to go with my TJM arriving in a few weeks...and I'm still undecided on steel vs. synthetic.
 
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That's a good point, @Markuson and one that did not occur to me. I have used my winch a fair amount over the two years I've had it and I guess it never really registered to me that the Slee fairlead is tucked back a bit from the exterior of the bumper. That's a pretty big problem, as you simply don't always have the luxury of winching straight on.

Still, synthetic line is impressive, in that you can tie it together if it breaks. Without that ability, it would have been an even longer day!

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Also, FWIW to anyone considering adding a winch: Warn 9.5 (9,500 lb capacity) is good in MOST situations. However, there are times when it's hard to truly predict the draw on your winch. The weight of your vehicle is not the "be all, end all" of the question on size of winch to purchase. I suggest going with the biggest winch that will fit. Today I had to try to winch a 7,000 lb truck sideways (45-degree angle) while also pushing 2.5 feet of snow... that's an enormous request from a winch and line. My winch was very close to giving up.
 
Also, FWIW to anyone considering adding a winch: Warn 9.5 (9,500 lb capacity) is good in MOST situations. However, there are times when it's hard to truly predict the draw on your winch. The weight of your vehicle is not the "be all, end all" of the question on size of winch to purchase. I suggest going with the biggest winch that will fit. Today I had to try to winch a 7,000 lb truck sideways (45-degree angle) while also pushing 2.5 feet of snow... that's an enormous request from a winch and line. My winch was very close to giving up.

Sounds like a snatch block (pulley) would have helped. Sorta like a make-shift, "low gear" for winches.
 
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Totally agree and I do have one! I think I underestimated the weight of the pull and by the time I realized it was nearing capacity my mind-set switched to "eh, lets see if it does it. That tree is so far away.. and the snow is knee-deep... " - ha, true laziness on my end after all the back and forth trips from trees to truck.
 
Also, FWIW to anyone considering adding a winch: Warn 9.5 (9,500 lb capacity) is good in MOST situations. However, there are times when it's hard to truly predict the draw on your winch. The weight of your vehicle is not the "be all, end all" of the question on size of winch to purchase. I suggest going with the biggest winch that will fit. Today I had to try to winch a 7,000 lb truck sideways (45-degree angle) while also pushing 2.5 feet of snow... that's an enormous request from a winch and line. My winch was very close to giving up.
From experience comes wisdom.

BTW, what kind of knot did you use? That looks legit.
 

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