77mustard40
SILVER Star
Post Your Blackstone Report (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BILT4ME
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- Thread starter
- #42
Something I just learned so we don't have to download the reports:
Open to your .pdf document
Go to the "Edit" tab
Select "Take A Snapshot"
Click in the upper left and drag to lower right and release.
Come to 'Mud
Select where in your post you want it and right click and select "paste".
It will place your document in full view in a .jpg format for everyone to see.
effjay80
SILVER Star
I just ran my first Blackstone test last week. Well worth $30. Now let's see if I can follow the above posting instructions.
- Thread starter
- #44
Any statement from Blackstone about your report? (Listed as a header of the numbers)
effjay80
SILVER Star
Quote - Your Land Cruiser earned great initial results. Sure, some minor fuel thinned the viscosity a bit, but neither are concerning at these levels. Wear metals are right around or below averages, which are based on a longer run of about 4,600 miles. All in all, a great first report. Endquote.
I think the fuel was a function of so many short trips around town last year between good runs.
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Got mine today, thankfully on signs of HG issues, at least in terms of coolant in oil. Si is a bit high though, they said because of new seals, maybe the recent VCG replacement? Hopefully not excessive dust or sand; I've been using an Exxon mobil filter and don't drove on dusty roads all that often.
Molybdenum seems a tad high as well: maybe wearing piston rings? They didn't seem that concerned about anything in particular.
Molybdenum seems a tad high as well: maybe wearing piston rings? They didn't seem that concerned about anything in particular.
So I got my second Blackstone report and I am trying to make sense of it. When I bought the truck the previous owner said he had just changed the headgasket but it looks like he skimped and didnt change the oil afterward. I'm hoping the presence of coolant is maybe left over from when the head gasket went, but I'm not sure. Basically I'm trying to figure out if I should just drive it and see what happens and keep doing frequent analysis or open it up and see what is going on. It doesnt exhibit any signs. My temps are spot on at 186 with no overheating.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
I know it’s blasphemy to bring it up, but on my old jeep 4.0, I had the infamous cracked head of 00-01, so got a new one and of course did all the gaskets in the process. Even with fresh oil after, it took a few more oil changes to get residual coolant markers down to a normal level. I did a few short changes around 750mi or so, and a blackstone test each time. I would probably suggest doing something like that and see what happens. I saw my numbers go down each time, indicating it was just residual from when there was a problem. Same thing with bearing metals, from what the coolant ate up before I fixed it.
I'd drive it and change the oil again with another test. So what it yields before opening the engine up.
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #51
You need to drive it more and get it hotter (fully up to temp). I know that's hard based on where you live (can't drive through the ocean!) because you can only drive so far.
That's why you have a bit of fuel in the oil. It's not getting the oil hot enough to burn it out.
Looks good though!
FMC80
SILVER Star
Thanks, I don't usually take it on short jaunts if I can help it but I get what you're saying. I'll monitor accordingly, wasn't planning on another analysis, but now I have to.
Second analysis since I’ve had the truck - skipped it for the last few changes. Generally looks good and no sign of HG at ~230k (paired with other monitoring/tests) but I don’t like the lead/increase..... will do analysis at each change from now on and hope it’s a fluke, though I don’t believe any work/etc I did would account for it.
I use M1 5w40 & lose about 3/4qt per month, hence the 4qt added over 6 mo. I don’t know about the earlier number of 1.75qt because it’s been the same since I bought it
I had a little more weeping from my VC gasket than I thought, which I replaced a week before this oil change, so we’ll see how much of a difference it makes this round. Adding oil over time would affect the results a bit, but a notification of something going on either way.
I use M1 5w40 & lose about 3/4qt per month, hence the 4qt added over 6 mo. I don’t know about the earlier number of 1.75qt because it’s been the same since I bought it
I had a little more weeping from my VC gasket than I thought, which I replaced a week before this oil change, so we’ll see how much of a difference it makes this round. Adding oil over time would affect the results a bit, but a notification of something going on either way.
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There’s general reading to be done elsewhere and I’ve done a bit, but 1fz specific, does anyone have thoughts on lead alone being out of whack? They’re typically lead/copper alloy, correct? I don’t know enough about the OEM makeup to guess which metal(s) you’d see as they wear, but as shown, no copper detected and other metals are consistent over the 1.5 year period. I know only time will tell how it pans out, but naturally wanting to learn whatever I can, early.
Truck runs great and sounds like any other issue-free 1fz I’ve heard. Have not verified oil pressure, but the gauge appears to function normally and appears within adequate range. The only engine work I did in that OCI was valve cover, PCV valve & both hoses, but that was a week before the sample was taken. Top end was super clean. I also added about 6oz of AT205 2 weeks prior, as it was a very low dose & had it left over.
Truck runs great and sounds like any other issue-free 1fz I’ve heard. Have not verified oil pressure, but the gauge appears to function normally and appears within adequate range. The only engine work I did in that OCI was valve cover, PCV valve & both hoses, but that was a week before the sample was taken. Top end was super clean. I also added about 6oz of AT205 2 weeks prior, as it was a very low dose & had it left over.
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- Thread starter
- #56
Take a look on their website to read up on what each and every line represents and why. They do a good job of explaining it all.
They have plenty of data to support the 1FZ-FE and the "averages" listed on the right column reflect that information.
Not exactly what I was hoping to see.
In hopes I'm not having a legitimate bearing issue in & of itself, and fuel has risen along with lead, here are some other thoughts. Let me know if I'm making anything up.
Compression test is on my list, but performance still feels good and has not changed since owning the truck the last three years. I'm not worried about compression or rings, but don't have any numbers to support that yet.
I've never checked injectors, but can't imagine they've ever been touched. Let's say one or more are leaking, and as fuel dilution rises, so does lead. Coincidence?
I have a smooth running engine with no knocking - also have not confirmed oil pressure, but factory gauge does not have any odd behavior as described by other folks. With everything I do know, I don't have any specific reason to think I have an oiling problem.
I believe & am sure the truck had 5W30 its whole life, until I switched to Mobil 5W40 the first year. While I don't live in a "warm" climate, Southeast AK doesn't really get what I'd call "cold." Yes, a bit below freezing in winter with random colder spells into the teens, but vastly different from the constant frigid temps up north. Point being, I don't have any worries that this oil is not lubricating well in general or due to cold vs viscosity. 5w40 wasn't around when the global chart came out, and this weight covers a pretty useful range IMO, in theory. Both good with cold flow & more robust at temp.
Naturally, the general consensus that the bottom end on these engines are so bulletproof, and knowing it's generally been taken care of, makes me question having a bearing-specific or oiling issue. In other words, I'm hoping my lead markers are a symptom of a different issue.
Adding injector check to the list
Compression test is on my list, but performance still feels good and has not changed since owning the truck the last three years. I'm not worried about compression or rings, but don't have any numbers to support that yet.
I've never checked injectors, but can't imagine they've ever been touched. Let's say one or more are leaking, and as fuel dilution rises, so does lead. Coincidence?
I have a smooth running engine with no knocking - also have not confirmed oil pressure, but factory gauge does not have any odd behavior as described by other folks. With everything I do know, I don't have any specific reason to think I have an oiling problem.
I believe & am sure the truck had 5W30 its whole life, until I switched to Mobil 5W40 the first year. While I don't live in a "warm" climate, Southeast AK doesn't really get what I'd call "cold." Yes, a bit below freezing in winter with random colder spells into the teens, but vastly different from the constant frigid temps up north. Point being, I don't have any worries that this oil is not lubricating well in general or due to cold vs viscosity. 5w40 wasn't around when the global chart came out, and this weight covers a pretty useful range IMO, in theory. Both good with cold flow & more robust at temp.
Naturally, the general consensus that the bottom end on these engines are so bulletproof, and knowing it's generally been taken care of, makes me question having a bearing-specific or oiling issue. In other words, I'm hoping my lead markers are a symptom of a different issue.
Adding injector check to the list
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- Thread starter
- #59
Lead, magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc are all high. That leads to mains and rods.
I think the fuel dilution needs to be a priority. You may be destroying your lower end due to the dilution.
How do you drive this? Many short trip of less than a mile? Does it ever get driven at distance, fully heating up to burn off all fuel and moisture from the oils?
I think the fuel dilution needs to be a priority. You may be destroying your lower end due to the dilution.
How do you drive this? Many short trip of less than a mile? Does it ever get driven at distance, fully heating up to burn off all fuel and moisture from the oils?
Rarely that short, and typically that would only be after I've been driving/hot already. Gets driven regularly where I have a full heat/burnoff cycle, especially in winter where I'm going ~35min each way to the mountain. In summer it's ~15min each way to work, and then a mix otherwise. Sometimes longer, but sometimes 5-10min. Driven every day.
Doesn't seem unlikely that the fuel dilution could be the root, but I'm not a multi-decade vet, so every new issue is a learning experience. Effword!
Doesn't seem unlikely that the fuel dilution could be the root, but I'm not a multi-decade vet, so every new issue is a learning experience. Effword!
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