I have zero torque steer with no diff drop.
Post Torsion Bar Adjustment Handling (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 4Peanut
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I have zero torque steer with no diff drop.
wildsmith
SILVER Star
I would guess that's down to lift height, there seems to be a point at which it suddenly starts to kick in.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Normally this is either the flange on the bolt head, or the flange on the nut. So you have to know what side to loosen. If the bolt has serations, then loosen the nut then you can re-sure them with no damage. Same as the 80 series front control arms.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Hugh? The bushing is the same OD it is just he bolt OD that changes. So technically with a larger OD bolt you have a less bushing material.
YardPig
SILVER Star
I'm not one to usually revive a thread, but MudSearch guided me...
Christo nailed it, bigger bolt equates to less bushing material to deflect. In a street 100 this would be ideal, but offroad squishy suspension is king and deflection can work to your advantage, less chance of bind. Toyota gave us comfort in the 100 in many different ways. Only reason I could see using the 80 series control arms is if no alternative exists. Maybe this is why Shotts tetter totters, no squished bump stop pics on magic 35's at full lock, and poses, not wheels...
Christo nailed it, bigger bolt equates to less bushing material to deflect. In a street 100 this would be ideal, but offroad squishy suspension is king and deflection can work to your advantage, less chance of bind. Toyota gave us comfort in the 100 in many different ways. Only reason I could see using the 80 series control arms is if no alternative exists. Maybe this is why Shotts tetter totters, no squished bump stop pics on magic 35's at full lock, and poses, not wheels...
hoser
SILVER Star
Here's the thing, there are no OE replacement bushings for the 100 series lower arms. The 80 series bushings are available. Costs about 1/2 to replace just the bushings vs the entire arm.... though extra labor and a press is required. I have aftermarket arms that use OE bushings.... so it's only 80 series bushings for me.
IIRC the OE rubber portion bushing is about the same ID and OD for 80 and 100 series. The difference is the metal crush sleeve/bushing: The ID is ~14.2mm for the 100 and ~18.2mm for the 80; same OD. Now, its been few years since I had both in hand but this is my recollection.
FWIW: There are slight differences in the design of 80 & 100 rubber bushings; but probably undetectable via seat-o-the pants.
FWIW: There are slight differences in the design of 80 & 100 rubber bushings; but probably undetectable via seat-o-the pants.
hoser
SILVER Star
Good point. I happen to have a crusty 100 series arm/bushing on hand. Outside diameter of that inner sleeve is ~26.5mm
2nd pic is an aftermarket arm with the 80 series bushing. I don't have the measurement but visually, the tube wall looks a couple mm's thinner.
Conclusion: same-same.
2nd pic is an aftermarket arm with the 80 series bushing. I don't have the measurement but visually, the tube wall looks a couple mm's thinner.
Conclusion: same-same.
From all my research I can only glean that it is not worth lifting my 100 series.
