Possible 1994 80 purchase (1 Viewer)

[Spruce]

Brakes are still spongy, but I did a 1-man-bleed and the stereo stays blank for like 3 minutes and then clicks on for whatever reason. I'll have my wife help me bleed (all 5 points) tomorrow and figure out whatever's happening with my stereo whenever I have time, but it's finally starting to look like a proper 80

 

[John Young]

Brakes are still spongy, but I did a 1-man-bleed and the stereo stays blank for like 3 minutes and then clicks on for whatever reason. I'll have my wife help me bleed (all 5 points) tomorrow and figure out whatever's happening with my stereo whenever I have time, but it's finally starting to look like a proper 80

2 cents from the peanut gallery: the master cylinder. Every single one of my LC's has needed replacement. It is clear the truck was not well-maintained or used in later years. Brakes that sit around deteriorate. I've taken to replacing the MC as a standard thing as soon as acquiring a vehicle. Cheap insurance. This is a change as I used to rebuild them. No more.

 

[Spruce]

2 cents from the peanut gallery: the master cylinder. Every single one of my LC's has needed replacement. It is clear the truck was not well-maintained or used in later years. Brakes that sit around deteriorate. I've taken to replacing the MC as a standard thing as soon as acquiring a vehicle. Cheap insurance. This is a change as I used to rebuild them. No more.

No s***? Can you send me a link to the one you buy? Thanks.

 

[John Young]

Normally I start with the VIN, but here goes.

I use toyodiy if I have the VIN, if I don't have the VIN I use Amayama or Megazip to search through diagrams. You've said it is a 1994 so on Amayama after a little navigation I get here:

Toyota Land Cruiser 80, 9 generation 01.1990 - 12.1995 Parts - Toyota Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/land-cruiser/9-suv-left-80-1990-2762

After a little more poking around I get here:

Brake master cylinder for Toyota Land Cruiser 80, 9 generation 01.1990 - 12.1995 - Toyota Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/land-cruiser/9-suv-left-80-1990-2762/transmission-and-chassis-2/brake-master-cylinder-139

Then there are several radio buttons to select the specifics of your truck and you get this:

Two part numbers come up for the complete assembly:

47201-60540
47201-60550

This happens sometimes. I am going to assume that the incrementally higher part number is some kind of minor improvement. I'm not going to worry about it too much, but I might try to search here on Mud to say if anyone said anything--this is such a common part. Then basically I google. If you are short of cash you could get a no-name equivalent from Amazon for about 90 bucks, but me personally, I would splash out on OEM.

Turns out the 550 part number is discontinued, but there are any number of suppliers for the 540 part number. Looks like about 220 USD for OEM. And that is just about exactly what I pay here in Dubai.

Hope this helped and that I discerned the nature of your question. Apologies if I did not.

EDIT: WHOOPS! Sorry. I pushed the manual transmission button--that's what I have on my mind. You will want to doublecheck that it is the same part by selecting ATM.

 

[jpoole]

This is what I put on my '97 per the rec. of other forum members. It's roughly OE equivalent and has worked great:

ADVICS BMT-046

$75.00

ADVICS BMT046 Master Cylinder | RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/advics,BMT046,master+cylinder,1836

There is also a BMT-068 listed for '93/'94 models on some sites but I don't know if the earlier 1FZ's need a different master, etc. you'll have to research all of that.

 

[Spruce]

Normally I start with the VIN, but here goes.

I use toyodiy if I have the VIN, if I don't have the VIN I use Amayama or Megazip to search through diagrams. You've said it is a 1994 so on Amayama after a little navigation I get here:

Toyota Land Cruiser 80, 9 generation 01.1990 - 12.1995 Parts - Toyota Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/land-cruiser/9-suv-left-80-1990-2762

After a little more poking around I get here:

Brake master cylinder for Toyota Land Cruiser 80, 9 generation 01.1990 - 12.1995 - Toyota Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/land-cruiser/9-suv-left-80-1990-2762/transmission-and-chassis-2/brake-master-cylinder-139

Then there are several radio buttons to select the specifics of your truck and you get this:

View attachment 3147877
Two part numbers come up for the complete assembly:

47201-60540
47201-60550

This happens sometimes. I am going to assume that the incrementally higher part number is some kind of minor improvement. I'm not going to worry about it too much, but I might try to search here on Mud to say if anyone said anything--this is such a common part. Then basically I google. If you are short of cash you could get a no-name equivalent from Amazon for about 90 bucks, but me personally, I would splash out on OEM.

Turns out the 550 part number is discontinued, but there are any number of suppliers for the 540 part number. Looks like about 220 USD for OEM. And that is just about exactly what I pay here in Dubai.

Hope this helped and that I discerned the nature of your question. Apologies if I did not.

EDIT: WHOOPS! Sorry. I pushed the manual transmission button--that's what I have on my mind. You will want to doublecheck that it is the same part by selecting ATM.

This is what I put on my '97 per the rec. of other forum members. It's roughly OE equivalent and has worked great:

ADVICS BMT-046

$75.00

ADVICS BMT046 Master Cylinder | RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/advics,BMT046,master+cylinder,1836

There is also a BMT-068 listed for '93/'94 models on some sites but I don't know if the earlier 1FZ's need a different master, etc. you'll have to research all of that.

Thanks fellas. That's a lot of excellent info that I think I'll need to put into action being that even after bleeding all 5 spots (admittedly quickly) I still don't really like the pedal. The MC certainly factory and I'd bet 100:1 that it's never been rebuilt.

 

[Spruce]

This is what I put on my '97 per the rec. of other forum members. It's roughly OE equivalent and has worked great:

ADVICS BMT-046

$75.00

ADVICS BMT046 Master Cylinder | RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/advics,BMT046,master+cylinder,1836

There is also a BMT-068 listed for '93/'94 models on some sites but I don't know if the earlier 1FZ's need a different master, etc. you'll have to research all of that.

Went with the ABS version of this one. For $86 it's worth replacing as preventative . I took it for a short drive this morning (sub 10 miles because I do not like the brakes at all) and the ABS light came on, stayed on for most of the trip but turned on and off a few times during it. Is the lack of breaking pressure something that would cause that or did I damage a sensor when I was rebuilding the front axle?

 

[jpoole]

@Spruce I'm not familiar with all of the modes that trigger the ABS light or all of the issues you may have with your brakes. From my experience here are a few things to look out for.

The wheel sensor circuits handle what in my mind are "weak signals" from the wheel sensors. As a result you don't want to lose any of the weak signals if you can avoid it, to keep the ABS system happy.

• The proximity of the tip of the sensor from the tone ring matters and a small amount of extra space can cause the ABS to be triggered while driving and hitting bumps/similar. For this reason you should clean the mating surfaces on top of the knuckle housing and bottom of the sensor really well to make sure that the ABS sensors can fully seat and be as close to the tone ring as you can get them.
• Similar to an overlarge gap due to an incompletely seated sensor, worn bushings in the spindles or other slack that allows the tone ring to move around can cause ABS triggering.
• Clean, sealed (add some dialectric grease) and well connected sensors and wiring are important. You can get erratic ABS behavior if you have loose/poor connections on any of the wheel sensor circuits.

80s are hard to bleed. I've been bleeding brakes for over 30 years and am decent at it but the 80 requires care/effort and sometimes a little luck to get fully bled in my experience. There's a whole bunch of info on this topic on the forum, some contradictory and much of it redundant or covering multiple alternatives that will all work. A few other thoughts on brakes based on my experience fixing the very crappy brakes that were on my '97 when I got it:

• Before I flush/bleed the brakes on my 80, which I do every two years or less, I replace any components that may need it. The main point is, you don't want to bleed multiple times and brake parts are relatively cheap so make sure the system is up to snuff before you start bleeding.
• I'm in the "rebuild the calipers with OEM parts camp" vs. sourcing rebuilt replacements. This is pretty easy, cheap and you can get the Toyota seals and pistons as needed. Replace pistons with any signs of pitting, replace all seals and clean the caliper bodies well.
• Replace all brake hoses as soon as one shows cracking/deterioration.
• Getting the pushrod length for the master correct really helps brake feel. Too tight and your brakes will bind, too loose and you have excess pedal travel before brakes start to engage.
• I've retained the LSPV on my 97 (replaced with new a few years ago) but there's plenty of info on the pros/cons of this.
• I use a pressure bleeder (homemade) when I bleed the brakes and combine that with at least a few swift pedal pushes per each bleeder to help push the bubbles out. The pressure bleeder ensures that the system is always under pressure when the bleeders are opened.
• A little sealant/tape on your bleeder screws can help prevent sucking bubbles at the bleeder itself and help you see when all of the air is out of that bleeder.
• I bleed all of the lines on the ABS unit during the bleed process. I don't know if this helps but it's easy to do by cracking the lines with the system under pressure. Rinse with water as you go, brake fluid is hygroscopic so bonds with the water and flushes away easily. Do not let brake fluid sit on any painted surface, it will strip the paint.
• Plan to bleed all ports a few times. The order that you bleed everything in may be less important than how much fluid you flush through the system, through multiple passes.
• Driving and activating the ABS on gravel, then bleeding again can help clear the system and I think is a requirement based on what I've seen come out of the lines after a full flush then abs activation.
• You can activate the ABS without driving (see image below that I grabbed from another mud thread)

 

[Spruce]

@jpoole I DID pull the abs sensors on the knuckles when I rebuilt them and I'll wager one of them isn't seated. That would explain the arbitrary nature of my light flickering today....I'll reseat those as soon as the rain stops. As for bleeding......I'm going to hold off on driving until my new MC is installed and I can do another (more thorough) bleed of everything. I actually have a cheap pneumatic vacuum bleeder that's worked wonders on other vehicles I've used it on, but it's a harbor freight special so my trust in it luke warm. Do you have plans or pics of your pressure bleeder? My LSPV looks pretty grimy and the truck actually did come with a new one when I bought it, so I should slap that on. As for the ABS activation, when you run the connectors to ground, do you just use wire? or small alligator clips?

 

[jpoole]

@Spruce yeah, you have to pull the sensors on knuckle rebuild and my first time resulted in poorly seated sensors due to grit followed by abs issues. Most of that list is the result of trial and error

I've not activated the ABS by the method in that picture yet but if/when I do I'll make a harness, crimping on connectors to get secure connections where prescribed. I wouldn't just stick wire in there because a stray wire could cause a short and cramming wire in there could stretch out a socket/etc. The risk of damaging electrical connectors or the electrical system is why I haven't tried that setup yet and have instead resorted to abs activation on gravel and lots of flushing.

I'd replace that LSPV if you have one, for sure. Get materials on hand for rust treatment of the frame/hardware where the lspv mounts before you start. Consider adding more paint to the lspv, my new one got surface corrosion pretty quickly. You may want to spray the bolts that mount the lspv a day or two before you remove it, they likely have some corrosion on them and may be hard to remove.

It's not required but in case you run into issues later and are scratching your head on how the plumbing is routed you may want to push air/fluid through the send/return lines on the lspv while you have it off and are installing the new one/etc. There is some conflicting info floating around on the forum about needing to lower/raise the lspv rod to fully flush, etc. but you can nail this down by testing if you want. I did this a few years ago and recall finding that there was no benefit to be had with raising/lowering the rod during bleeding but I didn't document that for sharing on the forum. Doesn't hurt to move the rod if you want though

Others on the forum have had good success with vacuum bleeders on their 80s and if you have it and are comfortable with using it you should probably go that route. I don't have pictures of my bleeder setup but in most regards it's your typical "garden sprayer with a pressure gauge" type of setup. The trick is how you mount the bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir. I used a flexible pipe cap like this (there's a standard size that fits the master reservoir nicely):

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-QC-103-3-Quik-Cap

Then added a barb to that cap, so that the line from the bleeder could connect securely:

Everbilt 3/16 in. Barb x 1/4 in. MIP Brass Adapter Fitting 800109 - The Home Depot

Made of durable, corrosion-resistant material, this hose barb adapter is constructed of lead-free brass for longevity. The barbs grip when inserted into soft tubing materials like vinyl or rubber. For

www.homedepot.com

Find a nut that will screw onto the threaded end of the barb fitting and a few fender washers that fit securely on the barb fitting and that are just smaller than the ID of the rubber cap. Then sandwich the washers inside and outside of the cap, with the barb fitting bolting through them and plenty of adhesive sealant and a firm / tight clamp down of the barb fitting. May be more than you want to deal with and you can just buy a toyota compatible adapter and an off the shelf pressure bleeder and be good to go. Building the above was more fun and faster for me as I could just run to the local hardware store and grab what I needed to put it together. It's worked great and the rubber cap holds the pressure on the MC reservoir with no issue. I buy the big bottles of brake fluid, which the garden sprayer holds easily, and use a large collection bottle so that I don't have to worry about frequent refills or empties as I flush the system.

You can replace the booster without cracking a brake line so if yours is ok, there's no need to replace it preventatively in my opinion. In case you need a booster though, this is the one I ended up getting for my '97 after some research into OE and aftermarket options, etc:

brake booster

Seiken W0133-1740427

$300.00

oe: 44610-60792

Discount Auto Parts Online - Domestic, Import Car Parts Warehouse - https://www.partsgeek.com

Good luck dialing those brakes in. If you succeed you should be able to lock the front tires up on dry pavement with hard braking. It took replacing most of the system and a lot of fluid for me to get my 80 there but fortunately it's stayed there since

 

[John Young]

Whoah.... I am quite glad that none of my trucks currently have ABS after reading this. I know it is great. But I am fighting just to keep all the trucks on the road. And I don't drive in ice. Just slippery sand drifting across the highway.

 

[Spruce]

Thanks again. I've used my bleeder already, and for whatever reason it didn't pull the vacuum it does on smaller (think cj-7) vehicles I've used it on. My wife gets bored bleeding brakes out after about 15 minutes, so I think I'll try to make a pressure bleeder like yours if I can't square it off with what I have on hand. A quick google looks like it's a pretty simple project. As for the brake lines, I actually managed to get all 3 lines on the LSPV and both the lines on the MC loose without breaking any of them, so the replacement(s) should be pretty easy.

I also like the $17 jugs of Prestone dot 3

 

[jpoole]

@John Young I don't think ABS adds too much ongoing maintenance hassle beyond the possible need to cycle ABS and re-bleed. Once I figured out my bleeding process, and that I need to fully seat the ABS sensors/etc. I'd guess ABS vs. non ABS has only added 20 or 30 extra minutes of time to the bleed/flush process at the most.

Of course, if/when something in the ABS system acts up it could add a lot more time and costs related to troubleshooting and repair but I've yet to have any issues with the ABS on my 80 beyond sensor issues I introduced and the typical extra bleeding needed.