@Spruce yeah, you have to pull the sensors on knuckle rebuild and my first time resulted in poorly seated sensors due to grit followed by abs issues. Most of that list is the result of trial and error
I've not activated the ABS by the method in that picture yet but if/when I do I'll make a harness, crimping on connectors to get secure connections where prescribed. I wouldn't just stick wire in there because a stray wire could cause a short and cramming wire in there could stretch out a socket/etc. The risk of damaging electrical connectors or the electrical system is why I haven't tried that setup yet and have instead resorted to abs activation on gravel and lots of flushing.
I'd replace that LSPV if you have one, for sure. Get materials on hand for rust treatment of the frame/hardware where the lspv mounts before you start. Consider adding more paint to the lspv, my new one got surface corrosion pretty quickly. You may want to spray the bolts that mount the lspv a day or two before you remove it, they likely have some corrosion on them and may be hard to remove.
It's not required but in case you run into issues later and are scratching your head on how the plumbing is routed you may want to push air/fluid through the send/return lines on the lspv while you have it off and are installing the new one/etc. There is some conflicting info floating around on the forum about needing to lower/raise the lspv rod to fully flush, etc. but you can nail this down by testing if you want. I did this a few years ago and recall finding that there was no benefit to be had with raising/lowering the rod during bleeding but I didn't document that for sharing on the forum. Doesn't hurt to move the rod if you want though
Others on the forum have had good success with vacuum bleeders on their 80s and if you have it and are comfortable with using it you should probably go that route. I don't have pictures of my bleeder setup but in most regards it's your typical "garden sprayer with a pressure gauge" type of setup. The trick is how you mount the bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir. I used a flexible pipe cap like this (there's a standard size that fits the master reservoir nicely):
Then added a barb to that cap, so that the line from the bleeder could connect securely:
Made of durable, corrosion-resistant material, this hose barb adapter is constructed of lead-free brass for longevity. The barbs grip when inserted into soft tubing materials like vinyl or rubber. For
www.homedepot.com
Find a nut that will screw onto the threaded end of the barb fitting and a few fender washers that fit securely on the barb fitting and that are just smaller than the ID of the rubber cap. Then sandwich the washers inside and outside of the cap, with the barb fitting bolting through them and plenty of adhesive sealant and a firm / tight clamp down of the barb fitting. May be more than you want to deal with and you can just buy a toyota compatible adapter and an off the shelf pressure bleeder and be good to go. Building the above was more fun and faster for me as I could just run to the local hardware store and grab what I needed to put it together. It's worked great and the rubber cap holds the pressure on the MC reservoir with no issue. I buy the big bottles of brake fluid, which the garden sprayer holds easily, and use a large collection bottle so that I don't have to worry about frequent refills or empties as I flush the system.
You can replace the booster without cracking a brake line so if yours is ok, there's no need to replace it preventatively in my opinion. In case you need a booster though, this is the one I ended up getting for my '97 after some research into OE and aftermarket options, etc:
Good luck dialing those brakes in. If you succeed you should be able to lock the front tires up on dry pavement with hard braking. It took replacing most of the system and a lot of fluid for me to get my 80 there but fortunately it's stayed there since
