Por15 metal prep…spray

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Has anyone used por15 metal prep and sprayed it and had no adverse results? Im worried about electrical connections and stuff like the e-brake and brake line fittings.

I had intended to brush it on, but it seems like everyone sprays it.
 
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I tried spraying it once and it didn't adhere very well. Think it did not care to be thinned. Brushed has been better for me too, no issues doing it that way and it smooths out enough you can't tell it was brushed on.
 
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South Texas
X3 Brushed.
It levels itself out very nicely.
Use a good quality brush or you end up with a bunch of bristles you have to dig out of the paint.
Wear Gloves, this stuff does NOT come off your skin.
 
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Mesa, Arizona
I think OP is talking about the metal prep liquid and not the actual POR 15 paint. I have always sprayed it, but I don't see why you couldn't brush it. My understanding is that it is an acid, so you should probably a little careful about what you might overspray on.

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I brushed it, it was really easy to do.

The por15, on the other hand. I don’t know if it’s because I’m in Florida and we have very high humidity and it’s very hot, but it does not act how I expected.

First off, the product was extremely thin and runny. It cured well faster than the two hour minimum on the bottle. It was curing so fast that it was actually difficult if not impossible to keep it very thin coats.

I degreased, wire brushed, degreased and metal prepped over two days and on day 3 i did two coats of por15 and a topcoat on the axles and frame that was in front of and behind the radius arms and did the inside of the radius arms the following day. This was done due to jack stand placement.

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Joined
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I think OP is talking about the metal prep liquid and not the actual POR 15 paint. I have always sprayed it, but I don't see why you couldn't brush it. My understanding is that it is an acid, so you should probably a little careful about what you might overspray on.

View attachment 3024374
Yeah reading again you are right. My experience is with the paint, not the prep. I probably would still brush on the prep though since overspray on plastic, glass etc will probably cause damage from the acid.
 

SNLC

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It is designed to bond chemically to rust. It doesn’t work as well when there is no rust or put on top of old paint.

When it is hot out it may be runny. It needs to be thoroughly mixed as it is usually settled straight out of the can. I usually add an accelerator for faster curing. UV curing is a big nono. It likes high humidity when applied. It is not UV resistant and needs a top coat.

The Metal Prep is sulfuric acid, you must completely wash it off with water and have zero water present when you apply the POR.

With any paint product, finished results is all in the prep.

Cheers
 
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east coast Canada
It is designed to bond chemically to rust. It doesn’t work as well when there is no rust or put on top of old paint.

When it is hot out it may be runny. It needs to be thoroughly mixed as it is usually settled straight out of the can. I usually add an accelerator for faster curing. UV curing is a big nono. It likes high humidity when applied. It is not UV resistant and needs a top coat.

The Metal Prep is sulfuric acid, you must completely wash it off with water and have zero water present when you apply the POR.

With any paint product, finished results is all in the prep.

Cheers
I thought it was phosphoric acid?

Sulfuric is pretty aggressive stuff, even smells like phosphoric acid, sulfuric burns the nose just from vapours
 

SNLC

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I thought it was phosphoric acid?

Sulfuric is pretty aggressive stuff, even smells like phosphoric acid, sulfuric burns the nose just from vapours


Ya you are right, still, you must wash it off completely.

Cheers
 

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