Poly Performance rears (2 Viewers)

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you'd have to have custom axle shafts made and some custom side bearings i think....Sputnik40 are you running 42's?

thought 39"

question to people who break rear axle shafts all the time.....are your diffs welded up? also what gear ratio are yall running and what kind of backlash # did you set the rear-end up with?

I'm ARB locked, both breakages was when Tencha was locked, turboed, intercooled and chained .. and heavy right foot ..

What does gears or welded diff have anything to do with axle shaft failure?

more stress to the axles .. ?

To the GM12 issue .. GM R&P ? plus GM spool or can be done with a GM ARB as well .. ?
 
it's my belief that that a welded diff is hell on LC axle shafts.....the other stuff- i don't know just trying to find some kind of common ground amoung the habitual breakers vs. non-breakers

i have beat the living peepee out of my stock shafts with a 300hp 350 and 4D's so what's the difference among us?
 
it's my belief that that a welded diff is hell on LC axle shafts.....the other stuff- i don't know just trying to find some kind of common ground amoung the habitual breakers vs. non-breakers

i have beat the living peepee out of my stock shafts with a 300hp 350 and 4D's so what's the difference among us?

I'm running a full carrier detroit . Are you running an auto or stick ? Maybe it's the terrain . We wheel where you sometimes run at it WOT to get through the mossy bits then you get subjected to patches of extremely sticky rock ,combine that with a bit of air time and it makes for pretty good abuse on components .
 
it's my belief that that a welded diff is hell on LC axle shafts.....the other stuff- i don't know just trying to find some kind of common ground amoung the habitual breakers vs. non-breakers

I think the opposite, you don't get shock loading with a welded/spool that you do from auto lockers engaging-disengaging. Hammer loading is hard on stuff
 
Maybe it's the terrain . We wheel where you sometimes run at it WOT to get through the mossy bits then you get subjected to patches of extremely sticky rock

that may be the difference brother, i don't really recall ever hitting patches of extremely sticky rock...i've got a manual tranny and full detroits too.

Bustanutley, why does Longfield not recommend running a spool/welded diff? he's talking about the front but same principles should apply right?l
 
Like Tapage said - 39" Red Label Krawlers, SM420, Orion HD, ARB front, Lock Right in the rear (sometimes use a No Slip, but it's about the same), and currently Al's (VelveetaWag) 4.56's with reasonable low miles. Have had failures with stock 4.11's also - diffs were pretty tight.

Same as above, I think the damage comes from hard climbs in slippery stuff where you catch traction (mentioned some bounce before, but it's really not bad, although I think I've got some pretty bad anti-squat on the steep stuff). Have also broken stuff just inching up steep climbs - but think it's failure from prior loads.

Not too keen on spools - but what the heck. Kinda have to remember that the next weak link could be the pinion - so while it's an interesting thought, I think I just need to keep nursing until I can upgrade the whole 9 yards right and proper.
 
No, he is recommending running a selectable locker.
not what it says on the front page of his website....it states- we do not recommend running a spool or welded diff on toyota axles

Sputnik, those sticky tires are rough on any axle, my friend has broken three ring gears in his rear dana 60 with those and he's running a 4banger
 
I definetly agree with the theory that the shock load kills em. IMO the aussie style locker if it starts clicking work sem hard, sharpens the splines in like a couple miles. As far as the twist goes, even with stockers I have not seen too many twist/shear breaks, mostly splines. I have the poly rears on a 305, sm420, 4.10, an orion at 4 to 1 and 37's and have not super abused em but have hopped around on em loaded with like 600+ pounds of gear and they are still there so I have to say I like em.
 
Just to be clear - I'm not posting to bitch - just think any thread on how to improve a stock axle is a good one. I've broken one Poly, bent another and then forked out the cash for the 3rd and it's still going, but I've parked my 40 this year due to fuel prices and other issues...

The first is bent to heck, and as such, there are any number of reasons it could have broken. The second wasn't bent as bad - and being more critical on checking them more often, caught it going bad before it broke. Interesting to see how far the splines can twist without breaking - am fairly certain I've never ever seen a stock one go that far without snapping clean.

The axle housing still looks straight when emptied - but just in case, have a spare freshly cleaned that's going in with the 4-link someday.
snapped-axle-2.jpg
axle-compare-1.jpg
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I do .. twice ..

thought the first was the stock one with a loooooong and hard life on it .. and the second was due to my fail ( brute force .. )

I'm just new on the PP .. less than a year with 'em .. and I was thinking in a new axle .. 14B sure, but it will be a issue with the 8 bolt pathern and big and heavy axle ..

Not to mention the loose on clearance due to bigger 3rd member ..


after a few runs with 1 tons you dont even think about breakage anymore. its not even on your mind. instead of bouncing on a ledge and worrying about breaking stuff you can focus all your attention on not rolling over...
 
The first is bent to heck,.

wou .. that's impressive . ! never seen before ..


after a few runs with 1 tons you dont even think about breakage anymore. its not even on your mind. instead of bouncing on a ledge and worrying about breaking stuff you can focus all your attention on not rolling over...

I know .. it's just to me a matter of money .. 1tons means new axles, R&P, misc stuff and tires/wheels just to keep the same ground clearance if you where interested on it .. don't you ..

In our kind of off road .. weight are other important issue to care about ..
 
i wonder if one could get Jack at CTM to build a set of 3M rear axle shafts? it would be $$$ but basically pretty bombproof with 40's i imagine..... then you could could start worrying about the r&p instead lol
 

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