As the title suggests I am curious the total amount of users who have come across this issue and what you’re experience has been like i.e. costs, how bad it is, labor etc.
Poll on total cracked headers for the 2UZFE (10 Viewers)
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Trunk Monkey
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Are you talking about a leak/crack of the OEM exhaust manifold or for aftermarket headers?
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- #3
OEM exhaust manifolds…
GTV
SILVER Star
I've had 5 2UZ's, in order of purchase they are:
2000 Tundra
2005 Sequoia
2007 LC
2003 Sequoia
2005 Tundra
The only one I've experienced exhaust manifold cracking is with the 2000 Tundra. I bought it in 2005 with 82k miles on it and they were already cracked. I eventually swapped them out for JBA headers around the 200k mark. From what I've observed and experienced the earlier manifolds were more prone to cracking.
2000 Tundra
2005 Sequoia
2007 LC
2003 Sequoia
2005 Tundra
The only one I've experienced exhaust manifold cracking is with the 2000 Tundra. I bought it in 2005 with 82k miles on it and they were already cracked. I eventually swapped them out for JBA headers around the 200k mark. From what I've observed and experienced the earlier manifolds were more prone to cracking.
When I bought Aaron in 23' he had a cracked DS Exhaust manifold. I purchased a new manifold, gasket and hardware from Serra Toyota during one of their sales and it took about 5 to six hours to replace. Not bad. I would strongly suggest purchasing a standard depth and deep depth 14mm non-slip sockets from Matco. Loosen the trans and motor mounts and jack up the engine and place a small block of 2x4 in between the motor mount on the side you are working on. I was able to get a torque wrench on every stud. Good luck! Cost was $250 for OEM parts.
Need some help with replacing the exhaust studs.
I replaced my right-hand exhaust manifold a few years ago without any issues. Today, I finally worked on the driver’s side. 7 out of 8 exhaust studs came out with the nuts, probably because I didn’t order new exhaust studs this time (based on my previous experience). I’ll post my experience once I’m done. In the meantime…
I’ve looked through the Factory Service Manual (FSM) but can’t find torque specifications or instructions for reinstalling the exhaust studs. Searched this forum and didn’t find anything. While I order new studs, can anyone help me with the correct procedure and torque specs for reinstalling these exhaust studs? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
I replaced my right-hand exhaust manifold a few years ago without any issues. Today, I finally worked on the driver’s side. 7 out of 8 exhaust studs came out with the nuts, probably because I didn’t order new exhaust studs this time (based on my previous experience). I’ll post my experience once I’m done. In the meantime…
I’ve looked through the Factory Service Manual (FSM) but can’t find torque specifications or instructions for reinstalling the exhaust studs. Searched this forum and didn’t find anything. While I order new studs, can anyone help me with the correct procedure and torque specs for reinstalling these exhaust studs? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
So, I did my driver side about a year ago and my FSM does not mention torque spec for the studs. With that being said, I sprayed carb cleaner in each stud hole and blew out with compressed air. I hand started the studs and then use the torx socket to just screw them in until they bottom out with just a little “extra” and that’s it. The studs should torque proper when you install your nuts. Heat cycles and surface rust will lock them in or not. The nuts are a locking type which means you can’t spin them on by hand and will tighten the studs until the resistance of the nut is overcome. FSM for my 2001 states 32 ft lbs for the nuts but never shows studs coming out. So this was my logic. I personally don’t mind when the stud comes out. Beats it breaking off that’s for sure! Good luck!
My driver side manifold has been cracked as long as I’ve owned my ‘01 LC. One of these days I’ll finally get around to fixing it…maybe.
Thanks! I only had one stud that threatened to break. It broke loose and then got stuck again about a turn and a half later. I sprayed more Pb Blaster, tightened it again, then loosened and repeated that process until I worked past whatever was causing it to bind. It took a good 20 cycles but I just kept reminding myself what a nightmare it would be if the stud actually broke in there. I can’t imagine how to fix that without pulling the engine.
In any case, thanks for the advice. I’ll try tightening until it touches and then 30°. I’m definitely going to chase the threads on that one problem stud before putting in the new ones. Maybe I’ll chase them all while I’m in there and then blow out any filings.
It’s not nearly as tough as people make it out to be. I was able to get most of the nuts out from on top. The only two that didn’t work were the rear lowers, but those were very accessible through the wheel well with just an extension. I didn’t need any universal joints or wobble extensions. Just a deep socket and a couple of different length extensions. I haven’t put everything back in yet - still waiting for the replacement studs - so maybe I’ll change my tune before it’s done but I thought the drivers side was easier than the passenger side that I did a few years back.
Edit: Forgot to mention the flexible head ratchet.
Interestingly enough, the right manifold had definite cracks in it, but I couldn’t find any on the drivers side, which puzzled me because it was exhibiting all the symptoms. The only thing I can think of is when I took the two nuts off that held the front most flange in place they offered nearly zero resistance and they came out with the studs. I’m thinking those studs must’ve backed themselves out enough to act like a cracked exhaust.
I’m still putting the new part in that I just bought, but if anyone lives in the Portland area and wants to come inspect my old manifold for themselves they’re welcome to it. It’s got 280,000 miles on it and if it’s not cracked I’d say it’s probably battle tested and isn’t one of the defective ones.
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I have two LX470. 2000 and 2001.
The 2000 with 127k miles and no rust has not had the manifold exhaust issue and will never have it as long as I will own the car.
The 2001 with 213k is full of rust from the midwest. I replaced the driver side exhaust manifold and heat shield last month. See pic showing the crack. 7 studs came off with the nuts. Very painful and difficult job but I absolutely love the quiet sound of my engine with no damn ticking!!!
The 2000 with 127k miles and no rust has not had the manifold exhaust issue and will never have it as long as I will own the car.
The 2001 with 213k is full of rust from the midwest. I replaced the driver side exhaust manifold and heat shield last month. See pic showing the crack. 7 studs came off with the nuts. Very painful and difficult job but I absolutely love the quiet sound of my engine with no damn ticking!!!
Studs coming out with the nut is not a problem for this job. You should always plan on having replacement studs just in case. The issue is getting your socket flush with the nut to get leverage to crack it loose. On one nut was so rusty I tried dremel and then had to cut it with chisel to break off the nut. Putting everything back in place was easy as long as you put the heat shield and manifold back together. All comments are for driver side.
I pushed the heat shield forward into the fan shroud and out of my way until the manifold was off, then I pulled it out the back where the manifold came out. I’ll reverse the procedure once the new studs arrive. Wish I’d kept the studs I didn’t use when I did the passenger side. Sticker shock how much they cost now days.
GTV
SILVER Star
How can you be so sure?
Got the new manifold installed and the engine sounds great again! This despite not finding any cracks in the original manifold. I did find evidence of an exhaust gasket leak on the frontmost and rearmost cylinder, see picture. Maybe I could have gotten away with just tightening the manifold nuts, but I probably would have needed to at least replace the gasket.
Some final thoughts:
1) I chased out all the holes where the studs came out during manifold removal. All but one really didn't need it as the tap threaded in by hand. The one stud that had threatened to break on the way out took a couple of passes but in the end I could thread the tap in with just fingers like the rest of the holes. TIP: I used alcohol as the cutting fluid, which worked great and left no residue behind.
Edit: 1.5) Cleaned the old gasket and carbon off the head using Toyota Throttle Plate Cleaner. I figure most of the gunk on the throttle plate comes from the exhaust anyway. No, I didn't have to use Toyota original cleaner, it's just the cheapest I could find, about half the price of anything I saw at Walmart.
2) I talked to a mechanical engineer buddy about torque specs for the studs and he said it's not necessary. Torques are used for establishing tension on the joint and the stud to head torque has no effect on that. He suggested just a quarter turn under load should be enough to prevent the stud backing out and wouldn't jeopardize stripping out the aluminum threads.
3) Removal was easier than installation. I used a flexible head ratchet during removal and other than a selection of extensions didn't need anything special to get to all the nuts, no wobble or swivel anything. Putting the manifold back on I wanted to give at least a head nod to torque specs, and the torque wrench really only had access to three nuts so I had to use a universal joint at various points along the chain, either right at the socket or after the first extension. I know that makes my torque readings suspect, but it's still going to be more consistent than "good-and-tight." I just did my best to minimize the amount of bend at the the u-joint.
4) The manual suggests tightening the exhaust gasket in 3 passes. Considering my last gasket had failed I went ahead and did just that.
5) About midway through the job I thought this job was much easier than I had been lead to believe. Removal was a piece of cake. I've changed my mind. Everything was fine until I tried installing the heat shield. During removal I had pushed the heat shield into the front of the engine bay and removed it after the manifold was out of the way. During installation I pushed the manifold and heat shield in at the same time and just moved the heat shield up or down as needed to gain access to the nut I was tightening. Sometime after the first round of tightening the heat shield slipped into the front of the engine out of my way, which I thought was a good thing but then when it came time to move the heat shield back I could not get it in place. I spent a good two hours jiggling, analyzing, pushing, begging, swearing... all to no avail when suddenly the heat shield just slipped back into place as mysteriously as it had dislodged in the first place. During those two hours I kept looking at all the clips and wires and hoses those sharp heat shield edges were rubbing against and wondering what damage I was doing. Sure enough, after installing the heat shield I found the component in the last picture underneath the car.
6) If anyone recognizes the part in the last picture I would appreciate knowing what it is and where it came from.
Some final thoughts:
1) I chased out all the holes where the studs came out during manifold removal. All but one really didn't need it as the tap threaded in by hand. The one stud that had threatened to break on the way out took a couple of passes but in the end I could thread the tap in with just fingers like the rest of the holes. TIP: I used alcohol as the cutting fluid, which worked great and left no residue behind.
Edit: 1.5) Cleaned the old gasket and carbon off the head using Toyota Throttle Plate Cleaner. I figure most of the gunk on the throttle plate comes from the exhaust anyway. No, I didn't have to use Toyota original cleaner, it's just the cheapest I could find, about half the price of anything I saw at Walmart.
2) I talked to a mechanical engineer buddy about torque specs for the studs and he said it's not necessary. Torques are used for establishing tension on the joint and the stud to head torque has no effect on that. He suggested just a quarter turn under load should be enough to prevent the stud backing out and wouldn't jeopardize stripping out the aluminum threads.
3) Removal was easier than installation. I used a flexible head ratchet during removal and other than a selection of extensions didn't need anything special to get to all the nuts, no wobble or swivel anything. Putting the manifold back on I wanted to give at least a head nod to torque specs, and the torque wrench really only had access to three nuts so I had to use a universal joint at various points along the chain, either right at the socket or after the first extension. I know that makes my torque readings suspect, but it's still going to be more consistent than "good-and-tight." I just did my best to minimize the amount of bend at the the u-joint.
4) The manual suggests tightening the exhaust gasket in 3 passes. Considering my last gasket had failed I went ahead and did just that.
5) About midway through the job I thought this job was much easier than I had been lead to believe. Removal was a piece of cake. I've changed my mind. Everything was fine until I tried installing the heat shield. During removal I had pushed the heat shield into the front of the engine bay and removed it after the manifold was out of the way. During installation I pushed the manifold and heat shield in at the same time and just moved the heat shield up or down as needed to gain access to the nut I was tightening. Sometime after the first round of tightening the heat shield slipped into the front of the engine out of my way, which I thought was a good thing but then when it came time to move the heat shield back I could not get it in place. I spent a good two hours jiggling, analyzing, pushing, begging, swearing... all to no avail when suddenly the heat shield just slipped back into place as mysteriously as it had dislodged in the first place. During those two hours I kept looking at all the clips and wires and hoses those sharp heat shield edges were rubbing against and wondering what damage I was doing. Sure enough, after installing the heat shield I found the component in the last picture underneath the car.
6) If anyone recognizes the part in the last picture I would appreciate knowing what it is and where it came from.
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Good job! That is what I believe a breather off of your charcoal box.
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You nailed it. Thanks!! I don't even think the heat shield even made it up that far in all the moving around. I must have knocked it off in all the confusion.
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- #19
Mine was the same but as soon as a small crack started the whole thing went.
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- #20
