Curious to see actual photos of it if you have chance. Mine’s an 06 on 265k miles as of this writing.
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (3 Viewers)
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Yes that is the complete master w/booster!
We've know idea why the price drop. Toyota has been aggressively raising prices the last few years. To have a drop like this, is unusual.
Hope it doesn't mean Aisin is having them manufacture in China....
We've know idea why the price drop. Toyota has been aggressively raising prices the last few years. To have a drop like this, is unusual.
Hope it doesn't mean Aisin is having them manufacture in China....
Thanks, I meant the brake booster assembly. No rush at all just whenever you have the chance.
yes, approx 350,000kms (2002 sahara). had the electric motor on the accumulator rebuilt with new brushes etc and now its as good as new. cost me about $400 dollars to have it rebuilt at a local abs specialist (sydney, australia) opposed to the dealership wanting about $3500 for the entire unit as they dont sell the motor by itself.
THX for posting pictures.
Typical to find brake motor commutator worn out, associated w/corroded brake control wire. Also typical to find corroded brake control wire associated w/over filled reservoir.
Mine just took a dump on a cold morning. ABS and Brake light then the alarm.
Is this all I need to replace to fix this issue? 47050-60012 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~brake~booster~assy~w~master~cylinder~47050-60012.html
Seems like it couldn't build up pressure quick enough in the cold. I let it cycle a few times and it went away....I don't take chances with brakes so I'll just swap the whole diddley and move on. No screech or bubbles in the master indicating seal failure.
Is this all I need to replace to fix this issue? 47050-60012 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~brake~booster~assy~w~master~cylinder~47050-60012.html
Seems like it couldn't build up pressure quick enough in the cold. I let it cycle a few times and it went away....I don't take chances with brakes so I'll just swap the whole diddley and move on. No screech or bubbles in the master indicating seal failure.
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Lacking detail @travis218 , so difficult to give any help.
Very often on cold mornings, when we get lights & alarms. Where pedal does NOT go to the floor. Then they go away after a few minutes of use. Which use warms seals (expand). This is very likely old rubber seal shrunk from the cold, letting pressure (fluid) pass the pisition seals in calipers and possibly in master. If no squealing sound from brake master with bubbles coming up front of reservoir, and Brake fluid regular flushed, and booster motor works when key turn to on (after sitting a few hours or pumping pedal a few time), and Brake control wire not corroded. Master may not do you any good with lights and alarms. It will raise pressure in system to same as day came from factory, if caliper seals can handle (likely they can). But you may still get cold morning alarms.
If you do need or want a Master. Use your VIN # where purchased to make sure correct one. All 100 series where not built the same year or with same parts. In the 10 years (98-07) Toyota built, we have at least 4 different PN # at Toyota for the Master. But all booster assembly (98-07) are the same.
Very often on cold mornings, when we get lights & alarms. Where pedal does NOT go to the floor. Then they go away after a few minutes of use. Which use warms seals (expand). This is very likely old rubber seal shrunk from the cold, letting pressure (fluid) pass the pisition seals in calipers and possibly in master. If no squealing sound from brake master with bubbles coming up front of reservoir, and Brake fluid regular flushed, and booster motor works when key turn to on (after sitting a few hours or pumping pedal a few time), and Brake control wire not corroded. Master may not do you any good with lights and alarms. It will raise pressure in system to same as day came from factory, if caliper seals can handle (likely they can). But you may still get cold morning alarms.
If you do need or want a Master. Use your VIN # where purchased to make sure correct one. All 100 series where not built the same year or with same parts. In the 10 years (98-07) Toyota built, we have at least 4 different PN # at Toyota for the Master. But all booster assembly (98-07) are the same.
City Racer will be introducing an updated part that includes the accumulator, corresponding to OEM part # 47070-60010. It's an extension of the 47960-60010 pump motor we've been selling since last year and shown to work perfectly. The new part is basically production ready. We're seeking 1 volunteer to participate in final testing. The qualifying criteria as follows:City Racer part is now released:
Brake Booster Pump for Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, Tundra
Brake booster pump for the Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, and Tundra.This is a wear item that usually requires replacement as the truck approaches 150K miles. Brand new part, not a rebuilt item or rebuild kit. Direct replacement for part # 47960-60010. Applications: '98 to '07 Land...www.cityracerllc.com
- You must be in need of this part. Pre-emptive replacement on a high mileage vehicle is OK.
- You must be able to install the part yourself
- You agree to install the part immediately
- You agree to provide feedback
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I've a 03LX 315K miles. With corroded brake control wire. I was planning on pulling booster assemble. I could test your booster assemble in.
Edited 3/6/22
FWIW: I'll not be participating. Only because I'm just getting to busy with others 100 series currently, to install immediately in my 03LX.
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Given you've been a prolific contributor on this topic, I think you're the right person to take on the testing. Thank you for volunteering. Can you PM me your ship-to address?
I just replaced the whole master assembly. Took about an hour, super easy. Brakes feel much better.
I have been following this thread for awhile but cant find an answer. Is my booster motor going out? I recently bought a 2001 LX with around 260 K miles and in am my booster motor cycles on-off 3x while running 40 seconds to build pressure. Brakes work fine, no alarms but when truck has set overnight the brake booster motor runs for about 12 seconds, stops, runs for 10 seconds, stops again and finally runs 18-20 seconds before shutting off. I have repeated test several times and it’s within a few seconds every time. No noises other than a low whirling sound from motor. Should I be shopping for a replacement booster assembly?
That sounds fine...it shouldn't take longer than 35 seconds to build pressure. If it's not running continuously for those 40 seconds you mentioned, I believe it's within spec. If it is running for 40 seconds continuously that's out of spec according to the manual if my memory serves. If it is bad, it sounds like just the motor...but if you're going through the effort and have the funds...
More or less normal for the mileage and age. 30 to 40 second runs times, from complet evacuation of accumulator. Is within spec. Pause during motor run time, is normal.
When parked, pressure will bleed off. Factory new system takes longer to bleed off, than a 20 year old system.
Motor is designed to work often for short duration. It's when the run continues or just too long (over 40 seconds often) we get concerned. They run over 40 second for a few reason. But it boils down to system detects pressure below minimum and works to bring up pressure.
In this brake thread I''ve link in below. I begin with the Brake Master. It may help you understand the why and when to replace brake Master or brake Booster system or both.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
Wow, I noticed when I bought mine that all the brake lines had been replaced. Guess I found out why 
On my way home from dinner last night my ABS light and buzzer started going off. This was after my brake light had come on earlier in the day. Pull in the driveway (brakes feel completely normal but when I look in the reservoir its empty, fill it to half ( all I had on hand) to see if I can see where its coming but I see nothing. This morning I go to start the truck and the lights and buzzer are still on but the reservoir is still half full. Anyone else seen this?
My guess is the initial brake light came on from low fluid, and then you got buzzers from a pressure issue in the pump/accumulator from nearly no fluid.
Run the truck in Park and pump the brakes for a bit then shut it down (to limit damage to the pump) there’s obviously a leak somewhere.
thats the plan this afternoon. Get some eyes underneath while some pumps.
As I've been reminded here a few times, make sure you follow the correct process for checking brake fluid level (pump brake pedal 40+ times and then check level). If you add without doing that you could overfill.
My rig did what yours is doing because of a leaking brake caliper piston that I ignored at my peril until the booster motor burned out. Not known if coincidence or not.
Good luck
