POLL: Do I need to bypass the rear heater? (9 Viewers)

Do I need to bypass the rear heater lines?

  • Hell yes!

    Votes: 1 50.0%
  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Meh, it’s fine…

    Votes: 1 50.0%

  • Total voters
    2

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Joined
Jan 17, 2022
Threads
11
Messages
84
Location
Los Angeles
FWIW this is my first time doing the hoses.

I’ve got all the hoses off and I’m ready to start putting everything back together. This is what the rear heater lines look like. Is it worth trying to flush it and keep it intact, or should I just bypass the thing?

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What does "By-pass" mean in this context? I bypassed the old metal and rubber and ran Gates Green Stripe instead a year ago. I used AN style hose clamps in pre-existing holes in the frame rail and on a threaded stud on the body shell. Works like a charm, but there is not much room for metal hose clamps at the heater end so I used Gates PowerGrip clamps and like them.

Social issues within the family precluded bypassing the heater altogether.

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The hardlines tend to fail underneath the body, not at the back of the engine. Yours look like they need a good flush at least...

I replaced my hardlines because I live in the NE USA, and I have family that use the 2nd row seats.
 
The main thing for deleting mine is to put thermal insulation. There is a lot of heat coming up from under the passenger seat as the 2 catalytic converter is just underneath. With the 80 series AC not up to par in heat wave conditions, every bit of extra heat load taken out of the cabin is helpful IMO.
 
Yeah I just plugged em and left them out of the loop. Kept the hard lines in case I want to plumb them back in later. I’m in just about the hottest part of Los Angeles I won’t miss the heat. I think I might’ve turned it on once in the last five years.
 
If you don’t use your rear heater (like me), get yourself one of @LandCruiserPhil LCP rear heater delete kits. Fits perfect and looks very factory. The second photo is it installed in my 80 series.

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