Points gap verse dwell

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Good day to all....
Well, the new filter worked brilliantly for a day or two....
But I am back to the same problem. I loose power - I pull out the choke so it doesn't stall. Also when I take off in 1st gear.
But if I leave the choke out while idling, it does stall. I feel like such a girl right now. oh.. that's right. I am a girl. :clap:
I've got this choke trick down to a science now in order to get where I'm going, but its not my favorite way to drive.
Could it be my Carb? ugh. Finding a competent person here to work on my carb is risky business.
Pin_Head- feel like taking a little trip to the tropics? hahahahaha
 
That makes sense. I suspect that the new filter worked well for a couple of days because your fuel tank is full of junk and/or rusty.
I'll bet that a new filter will work well for a couple more days. If you were to put in a clear inline filter you would see the junk.
I would get the clear filter to confirm this suspicion. To solve it you will have to get the fuel tank cleaned/refurbished.
 
So then.. it IS a fuel problem. The choke says it all. You think that taking the carb apart and cleaning it will help solve the problem? (I know if I don't clean the tank, it's just going to gunk it up again.)
 
You probably still have dirt / basura in your tank. If it ran great with a new filter, your carb is probably OK. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank and check the flow. Blow in the line and check again. If the flow is higher after blowing, then there is junk in the tank obstructing the flow. Remove the tank, get it cleaned out by your local radiator repair, have the inside sealed and reinstall it.
 
Just a hop skip and a jump from Cancun airport (eew) to Flores airport or GUA.....
C'mawn over. I can help you find a CHEAP new ride to drive back. We have loads of them here.
(I bought my flawless ride for 4K-and have only dumper 1k into it so far)
 
Ok.. It was the needle in the carb....
All fixed now. Thanks guys.
Anyone know where I can get brake pads for my 74 FJ40 (3 gear)
 
Do you need shoes or pads (drum or disk) front or back? 74 both North America and General Market FJ40 came with drums all around but front disk upgrades are pretty common. In the US they are all widely available. If you can't find them locally or someone who will ship to Guatemala, it is not unusual for brake shops who will offer to "reline" them,where new brake material is added to your worn out shoes.
 
Thanks ed! I think that is exactly what is going to happen.
New sapatos! Going to the brake place tomorrow. people can fix everything here.
If they don't have it, they make it. I love it. Nothing is impossible. :)
 
If you don't want to clean out your tank and reseal it, you might consider getting a marine fuel filter with a spin on filter like an oil filter. They are more efficient and remove particles in the 10 - 30 micron range.
 
Recently I had my '83 2F moved from my '70 to my "new" '79. It started and ran fine. After a week or so I drug out the timing light and dwell meter to check and see what the mechanic had things set at. Couldn't get the timing mark lined up. The distributor was off a tooth. After getting that right I checked the dwell. It was way low meaning I needed to close the gap. My distributor is a new unit provided by MAF when I bought the 6-1 header. So it has less than 5, 000 miles on it. So I don't think I have a worn or wobbly distributor. But I have never been able to get the specified point gap and dwell to match. So I have always adjusted smaller gap to get the dwell. Mark seems to think that is the way to go. Others say it will burn up points. Well the other day I was looking things over and saw the points were badly pitted. Thought I had a new set of points in the dash box. Opened the box and what the heck is this!?! There is no pivot pin. So I took the pin out of the other points. Hmm, minor difference in diameter of the pin vs the points. Then I noticed the points wouldn't line up with the fixed point. Looked online and I see both types offered. Don't know if the ones without the pivot are just a generic photo or if there is something I'm not knowledgeable on. The points I bought at the Toyota dealer do not say Toyota on the box. Bought some points the other day (since I had to stick a worn set in because of the aforementioned problem) and they are "conventional" in that they have the pivot built into the points. So, since the points were so badly pitted, and they weren't very old, is this what people are referring to that the gap being set at .008 to get the 41* dwell is burning them up? Someone else mentioned something about crankshaft degrees maybe being the disconnect. If that were the case, would a person then adjust dwell to say 20* and check gap accordingly?
 
I don't have an answer for you about the dwell question. But, for those times that you need to re-use some used points that are pitted/burnt here's some suggestions. When your wife isn't looking borrow her garnet fingernail file to clean the points with. Place the file between the surfaces, let the spring pressure hold the surfaces against the file, and "sand" the points. Doing this will keep the surfaces parallel to each other. It needs to be garnet, or some other non-metallic grit so that if any grit is left stuck to the points surface a non-metallic chunk won't cause electrical arcing. Anything metallic may create electrical arcing and cause additional problems for you.

Once you have cleaned up the points surface it is a good idea to wash them. Use a clean lint free cloth, dampen it with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner (will desolve any oils left behind) and place between the contact surfaces. Let the spring pressure of the points hold the cloth in there, and pull the cloth through the points. Hold the point surfaces open and allow to dry before starting the motor. Denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner are both volatile and will vaporize fairly rapidly.

Don
 
Wow .008 that cant be right unless your talking about the rubbing block gap. My manual says 0.30 mm or 0.0118 in.
 
I carry a small, flat, pattern file with me. I have used that exactly as you describe to file the points. Are you thinking that metal from the file could be an issue? Thanks for the tip on cleaning them, hadn't thought of that, and hadn't done it either, for many, many years. Thanks.
I forget what the spec is for point gap, something like .016-.020, but .012 on the F engine would get me in the 38*-40* tolerance specification. But on the 2F it takes .008 to get the 41*. So going by what other people have said, perhaps I should revert to just the gap setting and live with whatever dwell I get. I am running a Taylor-Vertex 45K epoxy filled coil with a Mallory ballast. I couldn't get Denso 14 plugs and the motor does not like the 20's so I have been running NGK BPR5S plugs at .032 gap. I run timing a little advanced to where the 7* dot is just visible at the lower side of the "window" on the bell housing. Probably around 9*-10*, but don't know as my timing light is the simple variety.
 
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