I have some Tulle Roof Rack mounts and cross bars that are too high for a cruiser. Can someone please measure how tall their ConFerr or bulldog clamps are to the cross bar so I know how much I need to cut my mounts down? I am looking to clear the roof by about an inch and try to get the same height as a conferr roof rack while using their mounts.
please masure height of ConFerr or Bulldog clamps
- Thread starter slickrock
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Dan, I don't have any clamps in front of me at the moment, but IIRC, the clamps that I sold Dan were 6" ConFerrs, and he said he came up an inch to short [needed to add spacers]. So 7" ought to do it.
BTW, your carb gaskets shipped this morning.
BTW, your carb gaskets shipped this morning.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks Mark. I'll get that base sent back to you once I get the gaskets.
M5driver
MUD Addict (Ret.)
My original Con-ferr clamps were 4", but these allowed the old style rack to rub the top. I switched to 6" clamps, which give me plenty of clearance. I'll hve the rack back on the truck later this week. I'll post a couple of pix when I get it back on.
- Thread starter
- #5
Interesting. One set of clamps that is 4"s clears the hardtop. Another set that is 5"s just touches the hard top. I wonder if that is an issue with the clamps from the factory. I don't see how a longer labled clamp could be shorter than a shorter labled clamp. Maybe a production issue?
M5diver, could you take a square and get the exact height of the bottom of the lowest point of the cross bar to the inside portion of the hartop that the leg fits into?
Dan aka: slickrock
M5diver, could you take a square and get the exact height of the bottom of the lowest point of the cross bar to the inside portion of the hartop that the leg fits into?
Dan aka: slickrock
BDSeff1fitty
1987 Toyota 4Runner
slickrock,
your rig is BA. exactly what i want mine like, when ever i find one to buy
your rig is BA. exactly what i want mine like, when ever i find one to buy
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for the response!
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
Mine are just under 6" and if they were any shorter the original roof rack would have touched the roof on the forward mount. I cut the two original cross members leaving enough to weld into the new square tubing I installed for a far sturdier rack floor.
6.3" is the minimum on my 1976 FJ40.
That is with nothing in the light weight Con Fer rack. Nothing meaning even a floor. 7" would be optimum.
That is with nothing in the light weight Con Fer rack. Nothing meaning even a floor. 7" would be optimum.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks Dan. Love the mounts, but as with the issue you had with them, they are way too tall. They should be easy enough to cut down and weld back up. Since you probably measured and remeasured the height you needed to make those new clamps work for you, I'll go with 7"s or the at least more than 6.5"s. It will come down to where I can cut and weld and how much extra support I have to brace the feet with. I don't want them to look hacked and I would like to fabricate some type of ladder for my short A*S self to get up there. So sagging will not be good. I am not going to have a rack up on top, instead I am purchasing another roof top carrier and that will be mounted up top and the trailer get the roof rack.
If I left the rack, I would be forced to keep all those lights on there
Actually, with a aerodynamic carrier, I can keep light stuff up there like folding chairs and sleeping bags or take expensive stuff with me when not at camp and keep it locked up.
Slickrock
If I left the rack, I would be forced to keep all those lights on there
Actually, with a aerodynamic carrier, I can keep light stuff up there like folding chairs and sleeping bags or take expensive stuff with me when not at camp and keep it locked up.Slickrock
- Thread starter
- #11
Man, eveytime I see your cruiser I get excited like a little school girl on the night of her first big girl dance!
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Man, eveytime I see your cruiser I get excited like a little school girl on the night of her first big girl dance!
TMI, tmi.
- Thread starter
- #13
Yeah I know but the similie is something everyone can visualize and agree to the idea.
Slickrock
I had the shorter Con Fer clamps on my FJ60 with a Wilderness Type Roof Rack. I used the Thule roof rack clamps just for the RTT. They actually stood above the wilderness rack.
Those thule clamps came off of an old school VW Bus/Camper.
I had the shorter Con Fer clamps on my FJ60 with a Wilderness Type Roof Rack. I used the Thule roof rack clamps just for the RTT. They actually stood above the wilderness rack.
Those thule clamps came off of an old school VW Bus/Camper.
- Thread starter
- #15
Dan, the roof rack works great and saved me the hassle of fabricating my own clamps. I just need to tweak them and I have been stalling on making my own clamps because I didn’t really want to go through the whole hassle of doing it.
It looks like I can cut the bottom of the base of the clamps about 4"s from the bottom and then cut the top off with the cross bar holders (about 3"). I would just need to make up a few support angle pieces and be good to go. I’ll also need to pick up some rectangular steel sections because the Thule cross bars will be too short because the clamps will be farther apart when shortened. But, I plan to use the old cross bars as part of a rack on my trailer. (see picture)
I picked up the Plastic carrier yesterday (nothing special but it is in good shape, solid, and waterproof and lockable). I need to figure out how to make a foldable ladder that I can use to get up there and have it stow out of the way when not in use.
I got the idea for a ladder (and because I am a massive 5’10” 178 lbs and can’t reach the top of the cruiser) while looking back at the September/October 2006 issue of 4wd Toyota Owner and Zen Dog's Cruiser (see picture) If I am going to be able to put and take stuff out of the carrier, I need to be able to get up there without too much stress or strange body positions like standing on the tire and holding onto the rack with one hand while the other hand is trying to load things because of my back. I would be asking to go straight to the vicodin playground.
If anyone has an idea about how I could make a ladder that would extend to about the tail light height and would be able to fold up flat onto the cross bars of the rack, let me know. I figure that the carrier would have to be off center towards the passenger side so I can lay the ladder flat on the driver side so I don’t have to worry about hitting my spare tire. The only thing I can think of is that it would fold like this: /\/\/\/\ with additional support arms (with rubber pads) against the metal of the top, body, and rear tire carrier.
I also attached a picture of the trailer for you Dan and earlier quips about it from you
It will have the roof rack from the picture at the top of the thread, minus the lights of course. The roof rack will be mounted above the carrier on the trailer in the picture for additional gear that is light and easy to lift and for my awning to attach to. The vertical supports will be able to fold up on one side (like the Heep roof racks with a soft top) so I can get into the carrier and I do not want the rack so high that it kills my COG on the trailer.
I really need to get back to work now . . .
It looks like I can cut the bottom of the base of the clamps about 4"s from the bottom and then cut the top off with the cross bar holders (about 3"). I would just need to make up a few support angle pieces and be good to go. I’ll also need to pick up some rectangular steel sections because the Thule cross bars will be too short because the clamps will be farther apart when shortened. But, I plan to use the old cross bars as part of a rack on my trailer. (see picture)
I picked up the Plastic carrier yesterday (nothing special but it is in good shape, solid, and waterproof and lockable). I need to figure out how to make a foldable ladder that I can use to get up there and have it stow out of the way when not in use.
I got the idea for a ladder (and because I am a massive 5’10” 178 lbs and can’t reach the top of the cruiser) while looking back at the September/October 2006 issue of 4wd Toyota Owner and Zen Dog's Cruiser (see picture) If I am going to be able to put and take stuff out of the carrier, I need to be able to get up there without too much stress or strange body positions like standing on the tire and holding onto the rack with one hand while the other hand is trying to load things because of my back. I would be asking to go straight to the vicodin playground.
If anyone has an idea about how I could make a ladder that would extend to about the tail light height and would be able to fold up flat onto the cross bars of the rack, let me know. I figure that the carrier would have to be off center towards the passenger side so I can lay the ladder flat on the driver side so I don’t have to worry about hitting my spare tire. The only thing I can think of is that it would fold like this: /\/\/\/\ with additional support arms (with rubber pads) against the metal of the top, body, and rear tire carrier.
I also attached a picture of the trailer for you Dan and earlier quips about it from you
It will have the roof rack from the picture at the top of the thread, minus the lights of course. The roof rack will be mounted above the carrier on the trailer in the picture for additional gear that is light and easy to lift and for my awning to attach to. The vertical supports will be able to fold up on one side (like the Heep roof racks with a soft top) so I can get into the carrier and I do not want the rack so high that it kills my COG on the trailer.I really need to get back to work now . . .
- Thread starter
- #16
Or if anyone hasideas on how to make a ladder swing out like a tire carrier but on the driver side, I would be interested in learning how to fabricate one up.
Man this thread is way off topic ..>
Man this thread is way off topic ..>
M5driver
MUD Addict (Ret.)
Slickrock,
Just got the old ConFerr rack back on this afternoon, so here are the pics I promised. You can see the extension pushes the first bend in the mount up to 6", which is what ConFerr means by 6" mounts. The height of the bottom of the rack is now at 9" above the rain gutter, and 2-3 inches above the roof, depending on where it's measured. The old rack makes a nice photo platform, and of course is great for hauling camping gear and bicycles when we want them. Doesn't do much for aerodynamics and mileage, tho
Just got the old ConFerr rack back on this afternoon, so here are the pics I promised. You can see the extension pushes the first bend in the mount up to 6", which is what ConFerr means by 6" mounts. The height of the bottom of the rack is now at 9" above the rain gutter, and 2-3 inches above the roof, depending on where it's measured. The old rack makes a nice photo platform, and of course is great for hauling camping gear and bicycles when we want them. Doesn't do much for aerodynamics and mileage, tho
- Thread starter
- #18
Thanks. IT sounds like if I am between 7 and 8 inches from the base of the gutter I should be good to go.
