Pilot bearing not fitting (1 Viewer)

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Took my truck in to have a clutch kit installed.
The shop called today and said that there was a seal in place of the pilot bearing, and that the pilot bearing was not fitting. "Too tight".
I've never heard of a seal in place of the bearing. Has anyone heard of this?
They want to replace the old seal with a new seal but it just seems like a bearing should go in there.
I may order a new bearing from the dealer to see if that fits.
Any recommendations?

FWIW. Reason for switching out the clutch was a chattering and input shaft seal leaking like crazy.
Clutch plate was half caked with trans fluid, causing a skip/chattering. Replacing RMS and input shaft seal along with the kit.
 
Pilot bearing fits into the center of the flywheel. It should be friction fit, and it should require some force to take it out and put the new one in. The ID of the pilot bearing should fit around the end of the transfer case input shaft. If you can, go see what they are talking about.

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I’m heading to the shop as soon as they open.
I’m wondering if the previous owner took it to a mechanic that had installed a pilot bushing instead of a pilot bearing. I’ll take some pictures in the AM.
 
all stock drivetrain?
 
What has happened is the input shaft of the the transmission broke free of the old pilot bearing that was binding and the shaft tip ground down inside the bearing race. Not uncommon. It appears that the previous owner had a oil impregnated custom bronze bushing (not seal) installed to act as the new bearing surface for the smaller diameter tip since a new standard roller bearing will longer grab the smaller shaft.

This is an acceptable workaround (bronze oilite pilot bearing) as many Chevys in the past used this method straight from the factory.

But a roller pilot bearing is better and will last longer, and lucky for you... there is a special roller bearing that will fix your input shaft woes: The Nachi 5202Z double row shielded roller bearing.

Its internal diameter is exactly the same as the original Nachi 6202 NKE used by Toyota but it's a double row bearing, so its twice as deep.

With its increased depth (over the original) it will be able to grab the untouched virgin portion of the input shaft that has never had contact with a bearing. It'll fit perfectly. Nice & snug like it's supposed to.

Get one of these bearings (Nachi 5202Z) and have your mechanic use it instead. It works awesome. Much better than a short lived bronze bushing that will continue to wear the input shaft tip down.

Don't use the 5202-2RS sealed bearing variant. The seal imparts too much friction on the bearing which doesn't allow the transmission to spin down as well.

Pictures below:

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And be sure to remind your shop to pre-fit the pilot bearing to the input shaft before tranny install.
 
@OSS What are your thoughts on the selection from this vendor? They are close enough to make the trip.
Other vendors say they would have to order from the supplier which would take 5 days.
Theres a few 5202Z variants listed.
 
Nachi bearings are made in Japan and they're probably the best bearings to use for this application. It's the bearing manufacturer Toyota uses for the pilot bearing. You can order a Nachi 5202Z from anyone who has it.
I got mine from VBX too!
 
I ended up with JAF, still made in japan.

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What has happened is the input shaft of the the transmission broke free of the old pilot bearing that was binding and the shaft tip ground down inside the bearing race. Not uncommon. It appears that the previous owner had a oil impregnated custom bronze bushing (not seal) installed to act as the new bearing surface for the smaller diameter tip since a new standard roller bearing will longer grab the smaller shaft.

This is an acceptable workaround (bronze oilite pilot bearing) as many Chevys in the past used this method straight from the factory.

But a roller pilot bearing is better and will last longer, and lucky for you... there is a special roller bearing that will fix your input shaft woes: The Nachi 5202Z double row shielded roller bearing.

Its internal diameter is exactly the same as the original Nachi 6202 NKE used by Toyota but it's a double row bearing, so its twice as deep.

With its increased depth (over the original) it will be able to grab the untouched virgin portion of the input shaft that has never had contact with a bearing. It'll fit perfectly. Nice & snug like it's supposed to.

Get one of these bearings (Nachi 5202Z) and have your mechanic use it instead. It works awesome. Much better than a short lived bronze bushing that will continue to wear the input shaft tip down.

Don't use the 5202-2RS sealed bearing variant. The seal imparts too much friction on the bearing which doesn't allow the transmission to spin down as well.

Pictures below:

View attachment 1983485View attachment 1983486View attachment 1983487View attachment 1983488View attachment 1983489

Nothing to add here other than to second that that is some great info. I really don't know how you know all the 60 series stuff you do @OSS but man that is some clutch (no pun intended) information right there. Well done!!!
 
I didn't know that they made a thicker bearing would have been helpful about 6 years ago i did a bunch of work to a 93 Toyota extra cab pickup v6 including clutch the shaft on the transmission was wore down and the bearing fit very loose on the shaft i let the owner know he reaction was just put some jb weld on the shaft i laughed and told him he could come and put jb weld on it that i was doing no such thing. I told him he needed a good used transmission or replace the shaft ended up just rolling with the transmission with the wore out shaft his decision not mine and let him know i was not going to be responsible for job @OSS
 
5-year-old thread reresection! I really need this solution to work. Found crazy wear on the input shaft while replacing the clutch over the weekend. With this thicker bearing (Nachi 5202Z) fully seated, won't it stick out a few mm and not be flush with the crank surface? Looking for reassurance and words to convince my mechanic friend. Thanks

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With this thicker bearing (Nachi 5202Z) fully seated, won't it stick out a few mm and not be flush with the crank surface?

Yes the 5202 is deeper and will stick out a bit - but if doesn’t matter. I used one and installed it myself and there’s plenty of room for it. Absolutely no problem. It needs to be deeper to grab onto the fresh metal on the input shaft.
 

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