I blame it on computers, we've been too enlightened.
Pig Parenthood
- Thread starter Bucky'sRig
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
I spent last weekend and the first part of this week installing new weather-stripping on my driver side front door. The following are my impressions and take-aways of the process.
• Initially concerned because the SOR door seal was vastly different than what came off it. Original had different “profiles” at different points around the door (top different than bottom different from sides) The new was a constant profile around the entire piece. It ultimately fit perfectly (correct length and is held securely by weather stripping “channels”). I applied 3M adhesive to the bottom of the door where there is no channel and it held tight.
• The Cruiser Corp window channel was also not the same as what came out of the rig. But again, it went in smoothly and seems to work adequately. It grips the window fairly tightly and makes window operation a bit more “sticky” then I expected, but it sure doesn’t rattle anymore.
• Window felts and scrapers were purchased through Rock Auto and work perfectly. On my window, which I assume was original; it had felts on both the interior and exterior. Both identical profiles; there was no scraper felt. I installed the new felt on the inside side of the window by drilling a slotted hole with a dremel tool, slitting the felt with a utility knife and installing the clips that came from the original. Felt was glued and then the strip was installed with a minimal amount of swearing. Exterior scraper felt was installed using the 3M adhesive because I didn’t see an obvious way to install it with the retaining clips. I figure that time will tell whether this is an acceptable procedure.
• I struggled with reinstalling the window channel attached to the wing window. Mostly due to a lack of a third child sized hand and saint-like patience. With the window channel rubber being super tight, it was difficult to keep it all in line and in place while sliding the wing window into position. Eventually I calmed down and it was completed.
• Reinstalling on the body went relatively smoothly; had to trim the rubber door seal at the latch; had to adjust the latch out a bit; and have to use a little more force to close the door now.
• Drove to work the last two days with significantly less wind and road noise than previously.
Many thanks to those before me that took time to post part numbers and sources…it really helped.
• Initially concerned because the SOR door seal was vastly different than what came off it. Original had different “profiles” at different points around the door (top different than bottom different from sides) The new was a constant profile around the entire piece. It ultimately fit perfectly (correct length and is held securely by weather stripping “channels”). I applied 3M adhesive to the bottom of the door where there is no channel and it held tight.
• The Cruiser Corp window channel was also not the same as what came out of the rig. But again, it went in smoothly and seems to work adequately. It grips the window fairly tightly and makes window operation a bit more “sticky” then I expected, but it sure doesn’t rattle anymore.
• Window felts and scrapers were purchased through Rock Auto and work perfectly. On my window, which I assume was original; it had felts on both the interior and exterior. Both identical profiles; there was no scraper felt. I installed the new felt on the inside side of the window by drilling a slotted hole with a dremel tool, slitting the felt with a utility knife and installing the clips that came from the original. Felt was glued and then the strip was installed with a minimal amount of swearing. Exterior scraper felt was installed using the 3M adhesive because I didn’t see an obvious way to install it with the retaining clips. I figure that time will tell whether this is an acceptable procedure.
• I struggled with reinstalling the window channel attached to the wing window. Mostly due to a lack of a third child sized hand and saint-like patience. With the window channel rubber being super tight, it was difficult to keep it all in line and in place while sliding the wing window into position. Eventually I calmed down and it was completed.
• Reinstalling on the body went relatively smoothly; had to trim the rubber door seal at the latch; had to adjust the latch out a bit; and have to use a little more force to close the door now.
• Drove to work the last two days with significantly less wind and road noise than previously.
Many thanks to those before me that took time to post part numbers and sources…it really helped.
Good job, this is a task I haven't reached yet. I think it's going to be the biggest pain so far and not looking forward to it.
- Thread starter
- #45
Spent some time recently “rebuilding” the front end (axles and tie rods). The following are my impressions and lessons learned from the process:
• This
job ended up taking me a month of weekends. First “major” project for me, so there was a great deal of gnashing of teeth and introspection (belly button gazing my dad used to call it).
• Both steering arms point to the front not to the left. I apparently took Coolerman’s pictures too literally and didn’t extract my head from my posterior in time. Passenger side gets a second look.
• Cleaning/painting takes more time than disassembling/re-assembling
• Every tie rod/steering linkage end is different. Lo and behold it makes a difference how you put them on…go figure
• Pieces are easy; knowing what you’re doing is not automatic. Trips back and forth to my computer to look at other’s advice is great aerobic activity.
• Parts take time and thought to gather (as good as Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters is) it’s up to you to make sure you have necessary parts. Thank goodness I over-ordered on seals. Again…head in posterior.
• That first “roll” down the street is both terrifying and exhilarating.
• Having assembled incorrectly, disassembled and then reassembled several times taught me that you get better/more confident the more you do it. Also, it pays to pay freakin attention.
Now some post install questions:
• I assume I need to “top off” the grease in all these parts now (Knuckle, tie rod ends, etc); does anybody have guidance on this procedure? I assume I just get my grease gun out with the proper zerk thingy and go to town. Can one of you experienced dudes/dudettes edumacate me?
• Toe-in checking still hasn’t occurred (I also haven’t taken that first excursion over 40 MPH). I set the tie rod and linkage to the lengths called for in the FSM, but I’m thinking I need to still take my tape measure to the front tires. 31” tires on the rig…Is the proper toe-in still 3/16 inches from outside radius of tire at 3 and 9 o’clock positions?
Thanks for the help and advice
• This
job ended up taking me a month of weekends. First “major” project for me, so there was a great deal of gnashing of teeth and introspection (belly button gazing my dad used to call it). • Both steering arms point to the front not to the left. I apparently took Coolerman’s pictures too literally and didn’t extract my head from my posterior in time. Passenger side gets a second look.
• Cleaning/painting takes more time than disassembling/re-assembling
• Every tie rod/steering linkage end is different. Lo and behold it makes a difference how you put them on…go figure
• Pieces are easy; knowing what you’re doing is not automatic. Trips back and forth to my computer to look at other’s advice is great aerobic activity.
• Parts take time and thought to gather (as good as Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters is) it’s up to you to make sure you have necessary parts. Thank goodness I over-ordered on seals. Again…head in posterior.
• That first “roll” down the street is both terrifying and exhilarating.
• Having assembled incorrectly, disassembled and then reassembled several times taught me that you get better/more confident the more you do it. Also, it pays to pay freakin attention.
Now some post install questions:
• I assume I need to “top off” the grease in all these parts now (Knuckle, tie rod ends, etc); does anybody have guidance on this procedure? I assume I just get my grease gun out with the proper zerk thingy and go to town. Can one of you experienced dudes/dudettes edumacate me?
• Toe-in checking still hasn’t occurred (I also haven’t taken that first excursion over 40 MPH). I set the tie rod and linkage to the lengths called for in the FSM, but I’m thinking I need to still take my tape measure to the front tires. 31” tires on the rig…Is the proper toe-in still 3/16 inches from outside radius of tire at 3 and 9 o’clock positions?
Thanks for the help and advice
That's in the ballpark...My rule of thumb is The bigger the tire, the more the toe-in.
Somewhere around 3/16 to 1/2" should be fine.
- Thread starter
- #48
HOLY SH*! Tucker...you're absolutely right! Thanks...I'm going outside to take pictures of the rest of my front end so you can double check the rest of my work. Thanks again.
Thanks Pighead, that's the advice I was looking for.
Um, that shock mount pin looks a little small for that bushing...sometimes a sleeve is used in there.
- Thread starter
- #50
Oil Pressure Issue
So let me preface this post by saying I'm an engine novice; hoping someone out there can shed some light on my vehicle's issue. Jumped in this morning to fire it up and let it warm up prior to driving off, and noticed the oil pressure was unusually high (50 PSI - ish). Some of you may remember from PO Tom's original thread that this particular pig has historically low oil pressure (10-15 PSI). As it warmed up, it returned to a normal range. It wasn't super cold this morning either (35 or so)
What's causing this? Something to be concerned about? Oil too viscous? This is the first time I've noticed the phenomenon and I don't want to do permanent damage because I have my head in the wrong place. Thanks in advance for ideas.
So let me preface this post by saying I'm an engine novice; hoping someone out there can shed some light on my vehicle's issue. Jumped in this morning to fire it up and let it warm up prior to driving off, and noticed the oil pressure was unusually high (50 PSI - ish). Some of you may remember from PO Tom's original thread that this particular pig has historically low oil pressure (10-15 PSI). As it warmed up, it returned to a normal range. It wasn't super cold this morning either (35 or so)
What's causing this? Something to be concerned about? Oil too viscous? This is the first time I've noticed the phenomenon and I don't want to do permanent damage because I have my head in the wrong place. Thanks in advance for ideas.
cold weather. the oil is thicker when it's cold. as it warms up, it loosens up. the dual rating is supposed to in theory mean it's the same viscosity the whole time, but, on a warm day, put a bottle in the freezer overnight and pour some out of that bottle and some from an un "frozen" bottle. it really doesnt' take much difference to increase the oil pressure.
- Thread starter
- #52
This is the answer I was looking for. Just surprised that I've been this unobservant for my entire life and never noticed it before on any other auto. I attribute this to my newly heightened piggy senses. Thanks Nuclearlemon.
Any updates?
- Thread starter
- #54
Happiness Is...
...New Parts. I drove my beloved pig around for a month or so after sussing out the front end issues; at the same time I depleted most of the earth’s petroleum reserves. Eventually the "tick tick" of the clutch release throw-out bearing (?) irritated me enough to do something about it. It was a weird phenomenon that would go away if the clutch pedal was depressed just a little bit and immediately return with the pedal all the way out. Figured the only way to get it straightened out, was to drop the transmission/transfer case/overdrive and finally learn how clutches work. I’m not sure anything was substantially wrong with the existing pressure plate and disk, but the consensus of this forum was to replace if you’ve gone to all the trouble to get that far in. Who am I to mess with the institutional knowledge of this distinguished panel.
So…it’s been sitting up on jacks for three weeks awaiting an opportunity to slip another expenditure past the CFO. These parts just arrived from http://all-foreign.com/ and I couldn’t be happier…had to share. Great service, 3 day free delivery (ordered Wed), Aisin pressure plate and disk, Nachi bearings, all for $255. Also had the flywheel resurfaced at an unusually friendly import engine service here in Boise. Not being from the world of mechanics and motors etc. I had built up an intimidating vision of the grilling I would take at the hands of the professionals. A gentleman in a lab coat walked out to me in the yard, confirmed that it needed to be touched up, and asked if an hour was soon enough? Assuming I was being punked, I played along, all the while expecting the derisive laughing by greasy tattooed biker types to commence. (Yes, I am ashamed of my misguided stereotypes). Very professional and very friendly…he even offered to help me if I had questions when I begin the 2F rebuild that TomFJ55 began.
So, I’ve got some fun in store for me this weekend. I’ll be sure to post up my tribulations after the process.
...New Parts. I drove my beloved pig around for a month or so after sussing out the front end issues; at the same time I depleted most of the earth’s petroleum reserves. Eventually the "tick tick" of the clutch release throw-out bearing (?) irritated me enough to do something about it. It was a weird phenomenon that would go away if the clutch pedal was depressed just a little bit and immediately return with the pedal all the way out. Figured the only way to get it straightened out, was to drop the transmission/transfer case/overdrive and finally learn how clutches work. I’m not sure anything was substantially wrong with the existing pressure plate and disk, but the consensus of this forum was to replace if you’ve gone to all the trouble to get that far in. Who am I to mess with the institutional knowledge of this distinguished panel.
So…it’s been sitting up on jacks for three weeks awaiting an opportunity to slip another expenditure past the CFO. These parts just arrived from http://all-foreign.com/ and I couldn’t be happier…had to share. Great service, 3 day free delivery (ordered Wed), Aisin pressure plate and disk, Nachi bearings, all for $255. Also had the flywheel resurfaced at an unusually friendly import engine service here in Boise. Not being from the world of mechanics and motors etc. I had built up an intimidating vision of the grilling I would take at the hands of the professionals. A gentleman in a lab coat walked out to me in the yard, confirmed that it needed to be touched up, and asked if an hour was soon enough? Assuming I was being punked, I played along, all the while expecting the derisive laughing by greasy tattooed biker types to commence. (Yes, I am ashamed of my misguided stereotypes). Very professional and very friendly…he even offered to help me if I had questions when I begin the 2F rebuild that TomFJ55 began.
So, I’ve got some fun in store for me this weekend. I’ll be sure to post up my tribulations after the process.
- Thread starter
- #55
P.s. - Is there anything else that should be done while I'm in there mucking about? The rear main seal looks absolutely pristine, so I'm hesitant to make it worse by replacing. How about Transmission/T-Case maintenance? Seals or bearings or anything that should be attended to? TIA.
-Scott
-Scott
How is pilot bearing?
Since you are in there...
Since you are in there...
- Thread starter
- #57
Existing pilot bearing is toast after I was done extracting it...thus the small bearing box in the picture.
BTW, I used every trick of the trade to get the old one out. I started with the white bread/hydraulic pressure method first with little success. Then tried various (non correct) pullers with little success. In the middle of it all, I helped my wife by making a pie crust for her (it's my contribution to her culinary efforts). Found that raw pie dough worked VERY well in getting the bearing out...sort of. Ended up blasting the race and ball bearings out of there, but left the remains (is there a name for the part of a bearing that "slides" into aperture?). Pretty much an hour of my life that I will never get back...but nice sense of accomplishment when it was finally done.
Plus it sounds like there was some pie in the deal for you when you were all done...
- Thread starter
- #59
9 months later
I’m truly amazed that so much time has passed since my last post on this (quite obviously) non-build thread. I find it much easier to log into our group daily and live vicariously through all of your efforts. It’s a very passive activity that doesn’t require me to actually add anything of value. It’s my favorite form of procrastination! Thought I would remedy the situation by providing a bit of an update. So what has happened since March?
Finished my clutch replacement and re-installed the transmission/transfer/overdrive successfully (i.e. was able to back it out of the garage). Re-installation of the transmission was an interesting battle of man against machine. I finally found a combination of support from the inside and lifting below that allowed me enough room to get on my back and use my feet to push it up and into the proper position. Reminded me of a couple of pictures I’ve seen of Pighead installing gas tanks. Next time I’ll find myself a friend to help for sure.
While I had everything apart, I was able to install the parking brake guts that NikP donated to the cause. Now I just need to finish it by finding a brake cable of the correct length. Since I have an overdrive, the cable needs to be longer and I haven’t quite figured it all out yet.
Been collecting parts to no specific end other than whenever I spot something that doesn’t work, it gives me the opportunity to research a fix, procure the requisite pieces and then let them languish on my work bench. One of these days I’m going to have to put something on the old girl. On the list:
• New resistor so I can have a both speed options on my fan
• New windshield weather-stripping so I can install a new windshield (after I win the lottery)
• New muffler, so I can reduce the levels of carbon monoxide in my bloodstream
• New shocks and bushings, so I can drink a cup of coffee on my way to work without sloshing it everywhere
Other than that, all is well in this corner of the world. The pig has become my daily driver and faithfully deposits me where I need to be every day. Here is a picture of it in the snow.
I’m truly amazed that so much time has passed since my last post on this (quite obviously) non-build thread. I find it much easier to log into our group daily and live vicariously through all of your efforts. It’s a very passive activity that doesn’t require me to actually add anything of value. It’s my favorite form of procrastination! Thought I would remedy the situation by providing a bit of an update. So what has happened since March?
Finished my clutch replacement and re-installed the transmission/transfer/overdrive successfully (i.e. was able to back it out of the garage). Re-installation of the transmission was an interesting battle of man against machine. I finally found a combination of support from the inside and lifting below that allowed me enough room to get on my back and use my feet to push it up and into the proper position. Reminded me of a couple of pictures I’ve seen of Pighead installing gas tanks. Next time I’ll find myself a friend to help for sure.
While I had everything apart, I was able to install the parking brake guts that NikP donated to the cause. Now I just need to finish it by finding a brake cable of the correct length. Since I have an overdrive, the cable needs to be longer and I haven’t quite figured it all out yet.
Been collecting parts to no specific end other than whenever I spot something that doesn’t work, it gives me the opportunity to research a fix, procure the requisite pieces and then let them languish on my work bench. One of these days I’m going to have to put something on the old girl. On the list:
• New resistor so I can have a both speed options on my fan
• New windshield weather-stripping so I can install a new windshield (after I win the lottery)
• New muffler, so I can reduce the levels of carbon monoxide in my bloodstream
• New shocks and bushings, so I can drink a cup of coffee on my way to work without sloshing it everywhere
Other than that, all is well in this corner of the world. The pig has become my daily driver and faithfully deposits me where I need to be every day. Here is a picture of it in the snow.
Had the same issue with the parking brake cable after installing my overdrive. Solution was a 9/73-9/75cable, I believe for a FJ40. Part no. was 46410-60050. If I remember right, it was almost a foot longer. Cut off a bracket attached to the cable, which I think was intended to mount in, perhaps to the firewall, on a FJ40.